Peter’s Blog, August 8th — Alright, Controversy!!
I’m packing and getting ready for the big book launch over the next two weeks in SF and the Bay Area, so will keep this short. The schedule is listed below in my previous Peter’s Blog, if any of you can make it to any of the classes or book signings. There are still a few seats left for the classes but you’ll have to call the venues for more info.
But this week I think we’re going to have to address the controversy that emerged in the Comments section of my last posting, thanks to someone named Scott007 and a few other voices, including another Scott — Scott123. It’s actually kind of exciting — apparently, I’ve pissed a few people off and am not sure why but would sure like to find out what I did (if you aren’t up to speed, please check out the Comments thread in the recent Peter’s Blog — last time I checked there were 14 comments). So, what I’d like to do is open up the discussion here on this posting, via a new Comments section, the one on this posting, and ask any and all of you to chime in. If I’ve trashed NY pizza culture, as Scott123 accuses, or passed on misinformation about pizza methodology or dough science, let’s get it all on the table so we can clear it up. Scott(s), how about getting specific and make your case — I hear that 123 is a well respected pizza authority so maybe I have something to learn from you. None of us have a monopoly on the whole truth and Pizza Quest was created to be a forum for the sharing of our mutual pizza journeys and celebration of artisanship. I’m open to learn from you but also would like to know the actual specifics of where you think I went wrong, rather than generalized attacks. The only rule for this discussion is civility — I reserve the right to edit out ad hominum attacks, unnecessary language, and nasty language. But differences of opinion — sure, I’m okay with that. So, for those who want to play along, go ahead and express yourselves — but let’s do it respectfully, please.
I won’t be posting another Peter’s Blog till I return at the end of the month, but will try to join in the Comments section from the road if my i-Pad and local WiFi will allow it. In the meantime, let’s get to the heart of it — we’re on a search for the truth (or, perhaps, truths). Let the discussion begin….
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While we are waiting for Scott123 to gather his thoughts, I will move to my next topic. Peter, I see that, in The Bread Baker’s Apprentice, you advocate the long, cold ferment, along w/ preferments, to add flavor to dough. Why not a long room temp ferment? It is simpler, less time consuming, and you get great flavor. Impractical in most commercial settings, the long room temp ferment, favored by Calvel among others, is very easy to do at home.
Moreover, while cold fermentation has its place, it cannot be a simple substitution for a long room temperature rise. Cont…
Flavor in dough comes mainly through bacterial fermentation. There are 2 types of lactic bacteria that produce acids that flavor dough: homofermentative & heterofermentative. Homofermentative bacteria thrive in temperatures in the 70-95F range, & produce lactic acid, which is mild, similar to the tang one tastes in yogurt. Heterofermentative bacteria thrive at 50-65F, & produce both lactic and acetic acid, which is sharp, similar to the flavor of vinegar. Cont…
The temperature at which one chooses to ferment dough favors one type of bacterial activity over the other, & leads to a different flavor profile. I do not like sourdough, so I prefer a process that encourages production of lactic acid & minimizes acetic acid. A room temperature rise of 5-8 hours gives me the flavor profile I am looking for, which would be impossible w/ cold-fermented dough. For those who like more intense flavor, a 24 hour room temp rise, used by Brian Spanger of Apizza Scholls for example, will give more flavor than four days in the fridge.
Pappy – it’s not quite as simple as one particular temperature zone favours a particular species of bacteria
Heterofermentative bacteria produce lactic acid and either acetic acid OR alcohol. Temperature isn’t a direct factor nor is it a species differential per se, but rather affects the available substrate and hence which metabolic pathway is utilised by heterofermentative bacteria. At higher temperatures there is a tendency towards lactic acid AND alcohol products while at lower temperatures co-metabolism with fructose (thanks to lower temperatures favouring yeast growth over bacterial) results in lactic acid and acetic acid.
Additional: To clarify, when I say “temperature isn’t a direct factor” I mean it isn’t a direct factor in which pathway the heterofermentative bacteria utilise but it is an indirect factor due to substrate.