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Peter’s Blog, February 24th

Written By Peter Reinhart
Friday, 24 February 2012 Peter's Blog

Hi again.  We’ve kept a lot of recent postings on the home page because we’ve been getting a number of new viewers and one thing I’ve noticed is that most people tend to stay on the home page rather than explore the archives or section categories (I know this thanks to Google Analytics!!). So, we’re going to leave things up as long as we can before they automatically default to the archive section to allow as many of you as possible to catch up to some of the ongoing topic points. But I do encourage you to visit the various sections, as you will find lots of golden oldies there and, to our great surprise, we’ve been astonished to see how much material we managed to post in just over a year. If I didn’t have a conflict of interest I’d say, “Quite impressive!”  Oh look, I said it anyway.

One of the recurring themes that you will see in these past (and future) postings is the celebration of the artisan spirit and what we think is their expression of greatness, whether in pizza or in any pursuit.  Chris Bianco once told me that he’s tired of hearing the word “passion” bandied about so frequently when it comes to greatness because he doesn’t think it is the vital defining quality that everyone else thinks it is. I believe I know what he means and, perhaps, a better way to utilize that passion word is to frame it within a larger definition of greatness. Passion probably is, as Philosophy 101 would term it, a necessary but not sufficient cause. Passion, as many of us might also say, has become a cliche. And here on Pizza Quest one of the things we strive to get beyond is cliche. So the question still stands: what is the defining quality of greatness?

We’ve focused in these articles and webisodes on technique, method, ingredient quality, the virtues of local, organic, wholeness (as in whole grain), authenticity, tradition, and, of course, on passion. I’ve cited another quote of Chris’s that he gave me when I was writing “American Pie: My Search for the Perfect Pizza,” when I asked him what was the secret to his amazing pizzas; his response was (after citing the quality of the ingredients and the dedication of his growers and suppliers as necessary but not sufficient causes), “It’s me, I’m the secret. I can teach people my tricks and techniques but I can’t teach them to care as much as I care,” and this drills down a bit closer to the core of the matter. But we’re still always drilling even deeper, trying to capture that elusive something that would answer, once and for all, “What is the secret to greatness?” Yes, caring more than anyone else is yet another necessary but not sufficient cause, but even that doesn’t scratch the itch beneath the itch. So what is it then?  Do you see why we call it a quest?

I’m a firm believer that the most important things we strive for are ordained to be elusive, like a carrot on a stick and even when we find what we’re looking for we rarely recognize it in the moment, and then we realize, later, that now it’s just behind us, a memory. That’s what most people refer to as nostalgia, looking back to happier or significant times with a kind of regretful longing, as if things will never be quite that good again. But a truer, deeper, and more literal meaning of the word nostalgia (and I’ve written about this in earlier blog postings) means, “A longing for one’s true home, yet to come.”  C.S. Lewis is my go to guy for this one and he believed that this longing is more a forward thrusting, not a backwards glance to the past, though the emotions this longing evokes are often similar. Whether it touches upon a distant memory or is an intuition of a memory not yet experienced, outside the realm of time but nevertheless a future reality — well, those are two sides of the same coin, and another vague and ambiguous way of defining that coin is “soulful.”  Yet even as I write these words I’m reminded, again, that the more we try to define it in words the more elusive it becomes. But an encounter with it somehow rings within our own beings, our souls, and whether in the moment or after the fact, we recognize it when we see it.  We’ve been defining this encounter as “memorable,” as a way to distinguish it from other experiences that are merely good, status quo, or expected. An “abnormal, memorable moment that opens a door into a longing for something true, something lasting, maybe even eternal, maybe home…,”  and then it’s just out of reach again, and it becomes an inconsolable longing.

And that’s why the search for the perfect pizza is both a great metaphor and also an earthly delight. Because, fortunately for us, in this quest we do have a chance from time to time to encounter a real, literal slice of nearly heavenly joy and to establish new reference points and new memories for greatness, even if we can’t quite put our finger on the words. And then we get to start again….

Comments

Jutes

Philosophy says that true love happens when two souls connect and see eye to eye despite the physical barriers (our bodies) that keep the souls from touching.

Pizza greatness happens when
1) the customer truly appreciates the pizza and feels the love and effort of the pizzaiolo,
2) the pizzaiolo truly does everything he can to make the pizza delicious and
3) the pizza truly is life-changing/food-philosophy-mind-shattering!

sometimes, when the eater become too technical and critical, they miss out on the effort put in by the maker, and the whole experience goes south. they should try to appreciate first before criticizing!

peter

Yes, thank you for expanding on this notion of greatness. Tony Gemignani, in both the videos and in a guest column he wrote for us a year ago,termed ti, “Respect the craft.” Do any of our other viewers have any thoughts on “greatness”? Would love to hear about them here.

peter

Jay, feel free to send me your Pugliese photos at info@pizzaquest.com We may be able to find a way to post them in an upcoming Peter’s Blog. Same with you others– if you want to share photos of anything related to pizza or your own quests that touches upon this ineffable notion of “greatness” please send them to us at the same address and we’ll see about starting a gallery. Could be very exciting!

mfeldman

First of all, I want to share my elation at receiving your response. I had just come down to my computer from tending my starters – three going at once – the old one that made lovely breads (Nancy Silverton’s LaBrea book, organic grapes, etc.) that had sat dormant in the fridge for at least (ouch!) twelve months or so and warmed up again yesterday, a one day old one from Peter’s “Apprentice” with pineapple juice and rye, and another one day old one from Maggie Glezer’s “Artisan” book. I see bubbles! It’s not dead! The other two have not turned ugly yet, so we shall see. The jolt of like-minded community, and the powerful feeling of the smallness of the world was quite wonderful for me, a stranger new in to the blog.

mfeldman

To your questions: I graduated from Cornell Architecture in 1984. Vinnie’s pizza was round, a thinnish supple crust, with tomato sauce that tasted like a smooth strained Bolognese, not too garlicky, with a warm rounded impression. Fresh mushrooms precooked, with some parsley maybe, and the eggplant about ¼” thick, pre-fried with a dusting of flour. Edge thicker, but not too much so. At least that’s how it seems from the vantage point of today. At the time I thought cheese came individually wrapped, so my “notes” are pretty sketchy. I don’t think coal was involved, likely a gas oven, maybe wood fired. It was Ithaca after all – Moosewood, and Somadhara bread!
I live in Toronto, which has (and had) some good pizza. I had some pleasing home results on the Big Green Egg, and also on Fireplace bricks on the rack in my electric oven, but way too much work for a Friday evening when you just want to lay back. Again, thank you for responding so warmly.

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Vision Statement

Pizza Quest is a site dedicated to the exploration of artisanship in all forms, wherever we find it, but especially through the literal and metaphorical image of pizza. As we share our own quest for the perfect pizza we invite all of you to join us and share your journeys too. We have discovered that you never know what engaging roads and side paths will reveal themselves on this quest, but we do know that there are many kindred spirits out there, passionate artisans, doing all sorts of amazing things. These are the stories we want to discover, and we invite you to jump on the proverbial bus and join us on this, our never ending pizza quest.

Peter’s Books

American Pie
Artisan Breads Every Day
The Bread Bakers Apprentice
Brother Junipers Bread Book
Crust and Crumb
Whole Grain Breads

...and other books by Peter Reinhart, available on Amazon.com