Tile saw (brick saw) Tools, Tips and Techniques Discuss Tile saw (brick saw) in the Pizza Oven Design and Installation forums; Is there a particular manufacturer and or model that people are using to complete their oven projects. As well, I ...

[130mountainside]

Is there a particular manufacturer and or model that people are using to complete their oven projects.

As well, I see some amazing results. Does anyone have a list or suggestion on how to determine the cut angles so that one can avoid using shims?

THANKS

[james]

Hey guys,

I moved this to Tools, Tips and Techniques. There should be some good feedback here.
James

[Ken524]

Hi Mountainside,

Many of us purchased the low budget Harbor Freight 10 Tile/brick saw:
http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/...o?itemid=95385

This thing is sort of the unofficial saw of the Pompeii Oven. With a little patience, you can make accurate and complex cuts with it. Although it's a low budget, Chinese saw, it chugs right along. I cut all my dome bricks and stone veneer for my oven. This past month I cut dozens of porcelain tiles with it for our seating area.

Here are a few threads on the subject:
http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f28/...-saw-6716.html (Harbor Freight Brick Saw)
http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f28/...-saw-5387.html (Harbor Freight 10" Tile Saw)
http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f28/...tand-2462.html (Harbor Freight Tile Saw Stand)

[dmun]

You're in Mountainside? I'm nearby, and you're welcome to come over and play with my HF 10 inch wet saw, and see if it's right for you.

Send me a message.

[splatgirl]

I'm sure I'm in the minority around here, but I was NOT impressed with the 10" HF saw at all. It was a pain in the butt to use and the water pump croaked on about course #2 despite my clean-water-only treatment of it. I ended up returning it and spending the extra couple of hundred for a Felker, which is a pleasure to use.

[ThisOldGarageNJ]

I used the HF 14 inch chop saw with a masonry blade with vents, the blade and saw came from HF and cost a grand total of less than $ 100.00, I would offer it to you to use, but it is lent to a friend building an oven in garfield... I had a 5 gal pail of water next to the saw to keep them wet, It helps keep the dust down tremendously and cools the blade..

Good luck
Mark

[dmun]

If it were a cost-no-object kind of project, I'd look at the rigid:



It's got a self folding stand, laser line finder, it's a neat looking tool. The HF saw is a cheap knockoff on the MK wet saw. Here's a few quotes from a pro flooring forum:

Went to HD to pick up some fuel for my Impulse nailer and looked at the Rigid tile saw. Makes my MK660 look like a Yugo.

One of my guys owns an Mk (not sure what model but I think it's the 660) and now he's using the Rigid I just bought. I asked him what he thought and how did it compare to his. He's old school and we don't usually agree on tools (he uses a sidewinder, I like worm drives, he prefers to hand pound his nails, I'll use my framer on hangers etc.. but he actually said he like the rigid better, and not because of the size or fancy stuff. He said he just flat out thinks it's a better saw. I haven't used it yet but I suspect we'll agree on this one.

The main appeal of the HF saw is the price. For a cheap tool it's not that bad. I just did a floor and shower surround for a friend with my four year old HF and it's still going strong.

What don't I like? The table slide on mine pretty much sucks, but I understand that they have improved it.

[SCChris]

I have a HF10, and have had no problems to date. If I had to find a saw today, and had a bit of time, I'd be haunting Craigslist for a 14" saw. In my opinion, the 10" saw is somewhat limited by the 3.5" cut depth. When I want to cut through the 4.5" width of a brick to taper I can't do this on a 10" with one cut. At best it takes two cuts, or many times I just let the last inch of the taper go and let the mortar absorb this angle change. The arch is the best example of where I lust for a 14" saw. To get the bricks just right here, I would really like to take a 1/4" off of one edge and both sides of the brick. This would get the brick 2.25" on the outside of the arch and 1.75" on the inside. All of this said, I don't forsee that I'll use anything but the HF and the oven won't care, and when I get to 1/3 bricks on the dome, the 3.5" cut limit won't be an issue. One more thing, the 14" blades cost more, but should last longer.

My 2 cents..

Chris

[130mountainside]

Thank you for your comments. I will look for a 14er, but won't weep if I cannot find one. When cutting the bricks for you oven, did each course have the same shape/ angles so that you could cut a batch of bricks?

THANKS

[Ken524]

Originally Posted by 130mountainside

When cutting the bricks for you oven, did each course have the same shape/ angles so that you could cut a batch of bricks?

For the most part, yes. It also depends on how you want to build your oven. Some guys custom fit every SINGLE brick. Others will cut all the bricks in half and start building. I ended up in between the two techniques.

You have to decide which direction you want to go.