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#71
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And what about you, throwing around terms like Euclidean Geometry and all. Jim |
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#72
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| Jim, From the forum I'd like to thank you for sharing your wealth. As George has said, so far I've been eyeballing everything, but I've found the angle cut to be a constant so far. Now that the bevel cut is getting larger I'll try the scientific way. I'll keep you posted on progress. Weather forecast for this week doesn't sound promising so I may take the saw in the garage to continue. |
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#73
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| Smart man. Use warm water in the tray if it's cold in the garage. No sense in suffering needlessly, unless you're an idiot like me. JCG, Ha! Time passes quickly, huh? It's really a kick in the face once you realize that you're completely invisible to 20 year old girls. Sad, sad.
__________________ GJBingham ----------------------------------- Everyone makes mistakes. The trick is to make mistakes when nobody is looking. - |
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#74
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Can't get replacement parts other than a whole new motor unit, which is about the price of the HF Saw. By the way they have a $200 and a $300 unit and I can't see much difference. |
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#75
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| Well Jim as you can see in the prior post I will be using a FB saw. So if you don't mind I'll take you up on the drawings. I can see cutting one side quite easily, but will need to actually play with it to cut the other side of the brick. |
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#76
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| YAY!!! you won't regret it. I am on the road and haven't had a chance to get to the drawings but attached are quick drawings for the first step, which illustrates (with bird's eye view of platform} how one can cut a full size brick in two pieces with a 5-degree angle, or any other angle, on both sides using the minimal number of cuts (3). Again I am away from the saw so the drawing is from memory and not to scale. I will repost with proper measures tomorrow. You first set up the left guide with two c-clamps (I use 3" clamps - stole the c-clamp idea from Hendo). The top c-clamp is for the full brick cut with left side resting on the foot of the c-clamp, right side resting on the stop (which is also c-clamped to the stage). Make the cut. Take the left portion of the cut from the full size brick and flip horizontally. Place against the bottom c-clamp on left and the bottom stop on saw on the right, make second cut. Take the right portion of the original cut and flip vertically. Place against the bottom c-clamp on left and the bottom stop on saw on the right, make final cut. As I suggested I should be home tomorrow in time to post dimensions for these cuts and the jigs and measures for the bevels. In the meantime enjoy your new saw. By the way there are those who have had the pump clog with brick dust and have opted to keep the pump in a seperate bucket. I have cleaned out more than 50 pounds of sediment from the tray and caked around the pump during the building of my dome and never had a single problem with keeping the pump in its defined location. Obviously you do need to keep the water level high enough to keep it pumping through and onto the saw blade. Jim Last edited by jcg31; 01-23-2008 at 07:00 AM. |
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#77
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I don't think it's worth the extra $100 though, I replaced it for $5. Les...
__________________ Check out my pictures here: To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. "Hell, there are no rules here - we're trying to accomplish something" - Thomas A. Edison |
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#78
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| Went to Dallas yesterday and did my shopping. My ceramic insulation was in for the dome I got 50 sf of 2" and of 1", a HF 10" saw, another bag of mortar(HS 50) and stopped at Acemart - a restaurant supplier and picked up a few things I'll use. Once again I'll say beware of the masonry places, they again wanted to sell a domestic mortar that 'would do the job'. When I wanted to cancel my order they looked around and found it. Just finished assembling the HF saw and I have 3 questions, 1- I have an extra knob, 3 were used for the guides, and 2- a small allen wrench that I didn't seem to need and 3- does the saw guard float on it's shaft? If 3 is yes does it ever vibrate over to the blade? Oh when I got the saw I got a 2 year warranty for $34, and basically they said bring it in when it is worn out and they replace it. Weird. |
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#79
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| I got the warranty too. I plan to get it replaced upon my two year mark so that I may have a new one again They said no questions, sounds like a great $34 warranty to me. My wife just got on my case, saying it is dishonest. Jeesh, the store said it was ok. Now I am pulled in two ways, maybe a poll to see
__________________ An excellent pizza is shared with the ones you love! Acoma's Tuscan: To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. |
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#80
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| I think that many problems arise, ie: pump failure etc. with the HF saw. I bought the warrantee too. No problems yet, but I'm not done being mean to it yet. RC, I suffered the same as you putting the thing together. Not really a quality tool, but it does a nice job nonetheless. The instructions included are small, inadequate, and hard to read. I can't remember the knob setup without looking at it (it's in the garage). I do know that there are two different holes for placing the motor on the mount bar. I used the the one closest to the motor as the vibration was less. The blade hit the table when I put it together. I had to reset the table, I think using the allen wrench, to make the table slide straight through straight. Also, the allen wrench is used to tighten down the the motor mount bar, if memory serves. Shoot me questions tomorrow if needed. I'll head out to the garage and look at it again. George
__________________ GJBingham ----------------------------------- Everyone makes mistakes. The trick is to make mistakes when nobody is looking. - |
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