{"id":1386,"date":"2014-04-24T22:19:12","date_gmt":"2014-04-25T02:19:12","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.fornobravo.com\/pizzaquest\/2014\/04\/24\/tomato-pie-rocky-ford-and-me-part-3\/"},"modified":"2014-04-24T22:19:12","modified_gmt":"2014-04-25T02:19:12","slug":"tomato-pie-rocky-ford-and-me-part-3","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.fornobravo.com\/pizzaquest\/tomato-pie-rocky-ford-and-me-part-3\/","title":{"rendered":"Tomato Pie, Rocky Ford, and Me, Part 3"},"content":{"rendered":"

PART THREE:\u00a0 TRY IT, YOU\u2019LL LIKE IT
<\/strong>
Let\u2019s talk tomatoes:<\/strong>
Like Mikey in the old cereal TV commercial, here in the South, when it comes to tomatoes it\u2019s often a pleading, \u201cTry it, you\u2019ll like it.\u201d\u00a0 That\u2019s because down South, leafy greens and butter beans take center stage, leaving tomatoes relegated to salads and canned spaghetti sauce.\u00a0 I first had to decide which tomatoes to buy. Heck, why would you buy them, when you can grow them -\u2013 right?\u00a0 I\u2019m sure most of you aren\u2019t looking to hold a tomato taste test, but that\u2019s what I did. <\/p>\n

In 2004, I ordered 18 different plum and paste tomato varieties of seed, with enticing names like Cour di Bue, Costuluto Fiorentino, Opalka, Polish Linguisa<\/em> and Viva Italia<\/em>. Can\u2019t you just taste those beauties? I planted the seeds, transplanted and secretly labeled the rows and, about three months later, sand-bagged Nick Thomas, a food writer at the time for the Raleigh News and Observer, into a blind taste testing of the lot by promising him exclusive rights to the story. I also arranged to take several baskets to a local Italian restaurant (since closed) to make tomato sauce. <\/p>\n

Well, what do you think happened?\u00a0 Nick concluded that San Marzano\u2019s were the best. Yet, although he loved those varietals, the restaurateur found it was too much trouble to cook them down.<\/p>\n

Subsequently, I experimented by growing different strains of San Marzano\u2019s, but just wasn\u2019t happy with the taste. I grew them outdoors; I grew them in a greenhouse; I tried different organic approaches with fertilizers and irrigation schemes for watering. Forgive me, again, but I cussed a lot \u2013 thankfully, no one was nearby (well maybe Kerry, my wife).<\/p>\n

I can grow tomatoes, but the soil and climate here just isn\u2019t their favorite. Then I realized, \u201cWouldn\u2019t an agricultural state like North Carolina be growing tomatoes instead of tobacco, cotton, soy beans, wheat, sweet potatoes and collards if it could?\u201d\u00a0 Dah!<\/p>\n

Alas, I finally understood what terroir<\/em> meant. It certainly has nothing to do with North Carolina being an English Colony instead of a French one. Terroir <\/em>is the set of special characteristics that the geography, geology, and climate of a certain place, interacting with plant genetics, express in agricultural products. Wine connoisseurs know it permeates the grapes. It\u2019s simple: Italian tomatoes have terroir,<\/em> and my Rocky Ford tomatoes do not! Italy\u2019s San Marzano tomatoes simply taste better!<\/p>\n

It\u2019s embarrassing for me to admit how much time and effort I wasted trying to grow this crucial ingredient for my Tomato Pie.\u00a0 What had seemed like a sensible idea was,in fact, a big bust! But you only learn from your mistakes. Chef Sean Brock on the \u201cTaste of a Chef\u201d would have been proud of me, but I can see the tears of laughter coming down his face, and hear him howling as he reaches for another brew. Always use the food ingredients that taste the best.\u00a0 <\/p>\n

So, we now buy imported San Marzano Tomatoes from Italy by the case each month, from Philadelphia of course, when Kerry travels there for work. The Rosa brand we use are imported into Philadelphia and Baltimore, while the Cento brand is available in Camden, N.J., just over the Ben Franklin Bridge. They are always intrigued when Kerry arrives at the warehouse as their only North Carolina customer yet who always gets their \u201cbest\u201d cash discount price (of course). By the way, I also have to admit that these imported tomatoes cost less to buy than if I were to grow them. (Wow, will I be happy to finish telling you my tomato story.)<\/p>\n

Each can is opened, the fruits individually cleaned and broken into pieces, and then adjusted with sugar (if need be). Every can tastes different \u2013 I adjust each can separately and then combine the tomatoes together. Handling and cleaning each fruit is usually deemed unnecessary by everyone else. Yet I always do this! (Maybe it\u2019s just the training I received at Jack\u2019s Firehouse, the many hours I spent picking crab, cleaning squid, and de-boning salmon.) No other spices or seasoning are added; no salt or pepper nor any olive oil. I like to prepare my tomatoes a day ahead and refrigerate them overnight. They simply taste better this way. \u201cLast-minute\u201d tomatoes just lack the flavor I want. I always return the tomatoes to room temperature before using them.<\/p>\n

Yes, this is a Tomato Pie: it\u2019s all about the bread and the tomatoes. The care I take with the tomatoes seems in keeping with their overall importance. What do you think?<\/p>\n

Now, let\u2019s talk about cheese<\/strong>. I was going to discuss cheese later, but after my tomato-growing debacle, I decided to continue my confessional and get my embarrassing stuff out of the way. Does this introduction sound familiar? Heck, why would you buy cheese when you can make it \u2013 right? Try to contain your laughter, as it can become contagious.<\/p>\n

Before setting out to make cheese, I had to decide exactly what type of cheese I would use. Obviously mozzarella, but low-fat, skim, part-skim, whole milk or what? After cooking pies with them all, I found that whole milk was the only one that did not separate on the pie. Hands down, always buy whole milk mozzarella! I have made pies with both fresh cow’s milk and buffalo mozzarella but the cost and softness usually rule them out for me because I am typically making about 40 pies at a BreadWorks Event.<\/em> For a small family affair, though, cost is not a factor.\u00a0 Since I always slice my cheese and never grate it, I buy 1-pound blocks, the firmer the better. I always keep it refrigerated and cut it while it’s cold into thin (less than 1\/8\u201d) slices. I usually find that I can prepare about 5 pies per package.<\/p>\n

I want you to know, though, that it really is easy to make your own mozzarella cheese. For a modest investment of $25, you can buy a kit that includes a dairy thermometer, muslin, citric acid, vegetable rennet tablets and cheese salt \u2013 and you are ready to go. (I like to shop online at the New England Cheese making Supply Company www.cheesemaking.com.)<\/p>\n

Life on the farm…<\/p><\/div>A gallon of milk will make about a pound of mozzarella. The big problem is finding and buying good whole milk. I own beef, not dairy cattle, so no advantage there. I am not about to get a dairy cow and have one more thing I have to do every day (milk the cow). The sale of raw, unprocessed milk is illegal in most states. Folks get around this by owning a share of a milk cow, and therefore technically are not selling the milk, but own it.<\/p>\n

When I was a kid, we still had milk delivered in glass jugs to a milk box on our side porch. The jugs were sealed with a paper disk. When it was below freezing outside, the cream would rise to the top and push the lid off. When it was spring you could taste the field \u201conions\u201d the cows were eating in the milk. The milk was rich (high butter fat content) and the kind that you wish you could find today to make cheese \u2013 but good luck! Buy the least homogenized and pasteurized milk you can find; it works better for cheese making.<\/p>\n

Actually, I was quite successful making mozzarella and would recommend you try it. I just found that the cheese I could buy saved me a lot of time without sacrificing taste. I do however sometimes make special flavored mozzarella with basil and assorted herbs which add a unique layer of flavor to the Pie.<\/p>\n

So maybe I was being a bit paranoid, dreading the discussion of my experiences with cheese. I just so much wanted to be able to tell you to \u201cmake your own bread and cheese, and grow your own tomatoes.\u201d\u00a0 Is that so weird? <\/p>\n

Oddly enough, my best old Confederate friend, Joe Elmore, recently gave me a book titled \u201cWeird New Jersey.\u201d The thought of it makes him laugh out loud every time. I know he\u2019s really laughing at me, but that\u2019s OK, I find him pretty funny too. I haven\u2019t found the \u201cWeird North Carolina\u201d book yet, but it\u2019s got to be out there somewhere!<\/p>\n

I hope you\u2019ve enjoyed this posting.\u00a0 Come back for my next installment, \u201cA Match Made in Heaven,\u201d\u00a0 where I\u2019ll discuss toppings. Get ready to laugh and hear about my \u201cace-in-the-whole\u201d.<\/p>\n

Bob<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

PART THREE:\u00a0 TRY IT, YOU\u2019LL LIKE ITLet\u2019s talk tomatoes: Like Mikey in the old cereal TV commercial, here in the South, when it comes to tomatoes it\u2019s often a pleading, \u201cTry it, you\u2019ll like it.\u201d\u00a0 That\u2019s because down South, leafy greens and butter beans take center stage, leaving tomatoes relegated to salads and canned spaghetti sauce.\u00a0 I first had to decide which tomatoes to buy. Heck, why would you buy…Read More…<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":370,"featured_media":1381,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[19],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1386","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-c45-guest-bloggers"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nTomato Pie, Rocky Ford, and Me, Part 3 - Pizza Quest with Peter Reinhart<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.fornobravo.com\/pizzaquest\/tomato-pie-rocky-ford-and-me-part-3\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Tomato Pie, Rocky Ford, and Me, Part 3 - Pizza Quest with Peter Reinhart\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"PART THREE:\u00a0 TRY IT, YOU\u2019LL LIKE ITLet\u2019s talk tomatoes: Like Mikey in the old cereal TV commercial, here in the South, when it comes to tomatoes it\u2019s often a pleading, \u201cTry it, you\u2019ll like it.\u201d\u00a0 That\u2019s because down South, leafy greens and butter beans take center stage, leaving tomatoes relegated to salads and canned spaghetti sauce.\u00a0 I first had to decide which tomatoes to buy. 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Nowhere in North Carolina was it to be found. Simply put, frustration led him to build a Forno Bravo Pompeii-style Wood-fired Oven on his Lynch Creek Farm in Rocky Ford so he could bake \u201cTomato Pies\u201d and Artisan Breads. After a lifetime of industry engineering and computer software consulting work, advanced degrees, Penn State University teaching, writing books for SYBEX Computer Books, and a few startup businesses, he finally \u201cretired\u201d to operate an organic farm, start a herd of grass-fed beef, build a log cabin event center, start the non-profit Ben Franklin Society and its companion fund-raising operation he named the Franklin BreadWorks \u2013 a private Dining and Entertainment Club. He received on-the-job, culinary training from Chef Jack McDavid of Philadelphia restaurant fame. An industrious and doggedly persistent work ethic has helped him master making delicious Tomato Pie, Artisan Breads and most recently, Artisan Pasta. CONTACTS and INFORMATION Bob\u2019s Email bob@lynchcreek.com Lynch Creek Farm Website: www.lynchcreek.com Wood-fired Oven Construction Slideshow: http:\/\/lynchcreek.com\/cabin-oven-photo-album-rev\/ Latest Franklin BreadWorks Newsletter: http:\/\/benfranklinsocietync.org\/?attachment_id=1032 Ben Franklin Society Brochure: http:\/\/benfranklinsocietync.org\/?attachment_id=999 Ben Franklin Society Website: www.BenFranklinSocietyNC.org Ben Franklin Society Facebook: http:\/\/www.facebook.com\/BenFranklinSociety BreadWorks Facebook: https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/pages\/BreadWorks-at-Lynch-Creek-Farm-Cabin\/798104410244992\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/www.fornobravo.com\/pizzaquest\/author\/bob-radcliffe\/\"}]}<\/script>\n<!-- \/ Yoast SEO plugin. -->","yoast_head_json":{"title":"Tomato Pie, Rocky Ford, and Me, Part 3 - Pizza Quest with Peter Reinhart","robots":{"index":"index","follow":"follow","max-snippet":"max-snippet:-1","max-image-preview":"max-image-preview:large","max-video-preview":"max-video-preview:-1"},"canonical":"https:\/\/www.fornobravo.com\/pizzaquest\/tomato-pie-rocky-ford-and-me-part-3\/","og_locale":"en_US","og_type":"article","og_title":"Tomato Pie, Rocky Ford, and Me, Part 3 - Pizza Quest with Peter Reinhart","og_description":"PART THREE:\u00a0 TRY IT, YOU\u2019LL LIKE ITLet\u2019s talk tomatoes: Like Mikey in the old cereal TV commercial, here in the South, when it comes to tomatoes it\u2019s often a pleading, \u201cTry it, you\u2019ll like it.\u201d\u00a0 That\u2019s because down South, leafy greens and butter beans take center stage, leaving tomatoes relegated to salads and canned spaghetti sauce.\u00a0 I first had to decide which tomatoes to buy. 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Nowhere in North Carolina was it to be found. Simply put, frustration led him to build a Forno Bravo Pompeii-style Wood-fired Oven on his Lynch Creek Farm in Rocky Ford so he could bake \u201cTomato Pies\u201d and Artisan Breads. After a lifetime of industry engineering and computer software consulting work, advanced degrees, Penn State University teaching, writing books for SYBEX Computer Books, and a few startup businesses, he finally \u201cretired\u201d to operate an organic farm, start a herd of grass-fed beef, build a log cabin event center, start the non-profit Ben Franklin Society and its companion fund-raising operation he named the Franklin BreadWorks \u2013 a private Dining and Entertainment Club. He received on-the-job, culinary training from Chef Jack McDavid of Philadelphia restaurant fame. An industrious and doggedly persistent work ethic has helped him master making delicious Tomato Pie, Artisan Breads and most recently, Artisan Pasta. CONTACTS and INFORMATION Bob\u2019s Email bob@lynchcreek.com Lynch Creek Farm Website: www.lynchcreek.com Wood-fired Oven Construction Slideshow: http:\/\/lynchcreek.com\/cabin-oven-photo-album-rev\/ Latest Franklin BreadWorks Newsletter: http:\/\/benfranklinsocietync.org\/?attachment_id=1032 Ben Franklin Society Brochure: http:\/\/benfranklinsocietync.org\/?attachment_id=999 Ben Franklin Society Website: www.BenFranklinSocietyNC.org Ben Franklin Society Facebook: http:\/\/www.facebook.com\/BenFranklinSociety BreadWorks Facebook: https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/pages\/BreadWorks-at-Lynch-Creek-Farm-Cabin\/798104410244992","url":"https:\/\/www.fornobravo.com\/pizzaquest\/author\/bob-radcliffe\/"}]}},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.fornobravo.com\/pizzaquest\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1386"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.fornobravo.com\/pizzaquest\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.fornobravo.com\/pizzaquest\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.fornobravo.com\/pizzaquest\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/370"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.fornobravo.com\/pizzaquest\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1386"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.fornobravo.com\/pizzaquest\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1386\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.fornobravo.com\/pizzaquest\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1381"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.fornobravo.com\/pizzaquest\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1386"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.fornobravo.com\/pizzaquest\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1386"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.fornobravo.com\/pizzaquest\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1386"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}