{"id":1364,"date":"2014-04-07T15:44:39","date_gmt":"2014-04-07T19:44:39","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.fornobravo.com\/pizzaquest\/2014\/04\/07\/tomato-pie-rocky-ford-and-me-part-2\/"},"modified":"2014-04-07T15:44:39","modified_gmt":"2014-04-07T19:44:39","slug":"tomato-pie-rocky-ford-and-me-part-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.fornobravo.com\/pizzaquest\/tomato-pie-rocky-ford-and-me-part-2\/","title":{"rendered":"Tomato Pie, Rocky Ford, and Me, Part 2"},"content":{"rendered":"

Note From Peter: \u00a0Bob’s first installment has drawn a record number of great responses, so I’m excited to offer you Part Two in his ongoing saga. We’ll keep Bob’s story going for as long as he keeps sending us his terrific writing. Enjoy!!<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/p>\n

PART TWO.\u00a0 A GOOD PIE NEEDS A GOOD CRUST.<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

<\/span>So, \u201cwhat the heck is a Tomato Pie?\u201d you ask. <\/span>My seasoned reply is simply that \u201cpizza is like a Tomato Pie on steroids.\u201d A strange way to answer? To that, I quietly say \u201cTomato Pie is not a lot of things.\u201d Do you get it?<\/span> <\/span>Tomato Pie is, and always has been, about the bread and tomatoes!<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span>The bread is thin and crisp enough to be picked-up without folding. No seasoned tomato sauce is used, only pieces of tomato cooked on the pie. Cheese and other toppings are used sparingly to enhance, not overwhelm, these ingredients. You may have read that Tomato Pies are built upside down \u2013 meaning the cheese goes on first \u2013 that is true. But do you know why?<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span>In the early days at DeLorenzo\u2019s, there was no menu. You could have a plain pie, or one with just a few pieces of sweet Italian sausage. As I recall, extra cheese, mushrooms, pepperoni, and so on, were either frowned upon, or suspiciously 86-ed. My pies adhere to these principles, with the substitution of a few toppings \u2013 homemade sweet basil sausage, saut\u00e9ed shitake mushrooms or spinach – and yes, begrudgingly, pepperoni (if I have any).<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span>Well, I can hear you saying, \u201cThat\u2019s an easy pie to make.\u201d To which I reply, \u201cDream on\u201d (or worse). It\u2019s the simplicity of these few ingredients that have made my quest (and yours) such a challenge.<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span>Keep reading as I guide you <\/strong>through the ingredient landscape and tell you <\/strong>about the choices I have made, and the techniques I now employ to build my Tomato Pie. Compare this with your present approach. Steal my best tips, but most of all along the way, try to think with the \u201cMind of a Chef.\u201d Sean Brock laughs a lot on TV, but I just know he would say, \u201cDon\u2019t ever stop thinking critically when preparing food.\u201d Keep asking yourself, \u201cWhat am I trying to accomplish?\u201d and \u201cIs this the best way to achieve that objective?\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span>Let\u2019s start with the bread<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span>I always remember the axiom, you eat first with your eyes. So, how can we make each pie more attractive – like a piece of art? It\u2019s obvious to me – stop making them industrially round or rectangular in shape! My pies are irregularly shaped \u2013 by design \u2013 and only coincidentally round. It dawned on me one day that my pies weren\u2019t \u201cperfect\u201d as I eyeballed a vendor cooking pies with a new wood-fired oven trailer. His were perfectly round, matching exactly the outline of the cardboard serving tray he was using \u2013 incredible! Either I couldn\u2019t toss a dough ball into a round, or it just wasn\u2019t that important to me!<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span>No. I have concluded my irregular shape alters the thickness of the crust and the topping distribution to help make each bite taste different \u2013 exactly what I remember about eating DeLorenzo\u2019s Pie. Uniformity is a golden rule of cooking, but one that must be broken at times. I believe this is one of those times. Also, I cut my pies differently. Not into familiar pie-shaped pieces, but rectangular-like shapes that don\u2019t fold when you pick them up. <\/span>Cut across the widest dimension first, and then perpendicularly into 6-8 pieces.<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span>I am sure that DeLorenzo\u2019s didn\u2019t make long-fermentation (artisan) dough. But after trying a slew of dough recipes over the years with mediocre results, I finally concluded (with help from Peter\u2019s books) it was time to try using an artisan-like crust approach. I read everything I could find, attended the Asheville Artisan Bread Bakers Festival (coming up again this year April 12th) and seminars by Peter Reinhart and Lionel Vatinet \u2013 and voila – I was on my way.<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span>

Nice!<\/p><\/div>At the same time, I had begun constructing my wood-fired oven using the Forno Bravo Pompeii Oven guideline plans, and the resources of the Forno Bravo Forum (more about my oven later). I had already decided that my gas and electric ovens were never going to cut-it if I was to bake the Tomato Pie and crusty breads I so dearly missed now that I lived in North Carolina. <\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span> <\/span>Finding vendors of ingredients was another big obstacle. I needed hard (high protein) wheat flour \u2013 like King Arthur Sir Lancelot, Sir Galahad and other Unbleached Bread Flours \u2013 you know, but not in 5-pound grocery store bags, but in 50-pound sacks. Soft (low protein) biscuit flour is everywhere down here in the south because they can grow soft wheat (and it\u2019s cheaper), and only recently have scientists begun developing winter wheat varieties that will grow in the southern climate. David Bissette at The Grain Mill in nearby Wake Forest solved this problem for me.<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span>Experimentation led me to understand how to adjust recipes using the baker\u2019s percentage. Remember that most published recipes assume you are using off-the-shelf bread flour. The harder the flour, the more liquid you need. My restaurant apprenticeship years ago with Chef Jack McDavid in Philadelphia taught me, first and foremost, never serve what doesn\u2019t look or taste right. I just had to make outstanding bread! So I mixed, and I baked, and I threw a lot away (fed it to the chickens). Sounds a lot like I huffed, and I puffed, and I blew the house down \u2013 but that was a fairytale. I must confess. I cussed a lot (please forgive me).<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span>My dough recipe today uses King Arthur Sir Lancelot (high gluten) flour, water, yeast and salt – no sugar or oils added. I prefer pies no larger than 12\u201d across because they are easier to manage in the oven. I cut about 250 grams of dough and refrigerate each in sealed plastic containers to develop flavor. I flour my room-temperature, wet-doughs on the counter, stretch them, and then \u201cthrow\u201d the dough onto a short handled wooden peel with a thin coating of semolina flour. I like semolina, rather that corn meal or regular flour, because it doesn\u2019t burn as quickly in the oven and ruin the flavor of the crisp crust.<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span>

If anyone’s asking, we pretty much feel Bob spends way to much time with that oven and not enough with us.<\/p><\/div>I am proud to say that I think my crust is spot-on. Chick would be proud too. I\u2019m not done talking about making and baking Tomato Pies yet, but need to check on my baby calves. It\u2019s been a long winter feeding and watering through the wet and freezing weather. My back-pasture slopes south and grass sprouts sooner there. Above freezing temperatures and growing grass are signs of spring and the prospect of fewer demands on me to care for my herd and recent newborns.<\/span><\/p>\n

Understand that there is more to life on a farm than baking Tomato Pies. I\u2019ll be back soon to continue describing my odyssey. My cows are lowing.<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Note From Peter: \u00a0Bob’s first installment has drawn a record number of great responses, so I’m excited to offer you Part Two in his ongoing saga. We’ll keep Bob’s story going for as long as he keeps sending us his terrific writing. Enjoy!! \u00a0 PART TWO.\u00a0 A GOOD PIE NEEDS A GOOD CRUST. So, \u201cwhat the heck is a Tomato Pie?\u201d you ask. My seasoned reply is simply that \u201cpizza…Read More…<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":370,"featured_media":1360,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[19],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1364","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-c45-guest-bloggers"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nTomato Pie, Rocky Ford, and Me, Part 2 - Pizza Quest with Peter Reinhart<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.fornobravo.com\/pizzaquest\/tomato-pie-rocky-ford-and-me-part-2\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Tomato Pie, Rocky Ford, and Me, Part 2 - Pizza Quest with Peter Reinhart\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Note From Peter: \u00a0Bob’s first installment has drawn a record number of great responses, so I’m excited to offer you Part Two in his ongoing saga. 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My seasoned reply is simply that \u201cpizza...Read More...\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.fornobravo.com\/pizzaquest\/tomato-pie-rocky-ford-and-me-part-2\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Pizza Quest with Peter Reinhart\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/PizzaQuestFornoBravo\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2014-04-07T19:44:39+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/www.fornobravo.com\/pizzaquest\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2014\/04\/image%207%20-%20version%202.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"640\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"480\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Bob Radcliffe\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Bob Radcliffe\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"6 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.fornobravo.com\/pizzaquest\/tomato-pie-rocky-ford-and-me-part-2\/\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/www.fornobravo.com\/pizzaquest\/tomato-pie-rocky-ford-and-me-part-2\/\",\"name\":\"Tomato Pie, Rocky Ford, and Me, Part 2 - Pizza Quest with Peter Reinhart\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.fornobravo.com\/pizzaquest\/#website\"},\"datePublished\":\"2014-04-07T19:44:39+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2014-04-07T19:44:39+00:00\",\"author\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.fornobravo.com\/pizzaquest\/#\/schema\/person\/3ceba7b40e3132414fe60f51cda66793\"},\"breadcrumb\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.fornobravo.com\/pizzaquest\/tomato-pie-rocky-ford-and-me-part-2\/#breadcrumb\"},\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"ReadAction\",\"target\":[\"https:\/\/www.fornobravo.com\/pizzaquest\/tomato-pie-rocky-ford-and-me-part-2\/\"]}]},{\"@type\":\"BreadcrumbList\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.fornobravo.com\/pizzaquest\/tomato-pie-rocky-ford-and-me-part-2\/#breadcrumb\",\"itemListElement\":[{\"@type\":\"ListItem\",\"position\":1,\"name\":\"Home\",\"item\":\"https:\/\/www.fornobravo.com\/pizzaquest\/\"},{\"@type\":\"ListItem\",\"position\":2,\"name\":\"Tomato Pie, Rocky Ford, and Me, Part 2\"}]},{\"@type\":\"WebSite\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.fornobravo.com\/pizzaquest\/#website\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/www.fornobravo.com\/pizzaquest\/\",\"name\":\"Pizza Quest with Peter Reinhart\",\"description\":\"A journey of self-discovery through pizza.\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"SearchAction\",\"target\":{\"@type\":\"EntryPoint\",\"urlTemplate\":\"https:\/\/www.fornobravo.com\/pizzaquest\/?s={search_term_string}\"},\"query-input\":\"required name=search_term_string\"}],\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\"},{\"@type\":\"Person\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.fornobravo.com\/pizzaquest\/#\/schema\/person\/3ceba7b40e3132414fe60f51cda66793\",\"name\":\"Bob Radcliffe\",\"image\":{\"@type\":\"ImageObject\",\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.fornobravo.com\/pizzaquest\/#\/schema\/person\/image\/\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/secure.gravatar.com\/avatar\/41e57368b74b10e2798c07b59e85a8be?s=96&r=g\",\"contentUrl\":\"https:\/\/secure.gravatar.com\/avatar\/41e57368b74b10e2798c07b59e85a8be?s=96&r=g\",\"caption\":\"Bob Radcliffe\"},\"description\":\"Transplanted from Philadelphia to rural Franklin County, North Carolina over twenty-five years ago, Bob yearned for a 1950\u2019s-style \u201cTomato Pie\u201d made at DeLorenzo\u2019s on Hudson Street in Trenton, NJ in a coal-fired oven. Nowhere in North Carolina was it to be found. Simply put, frustration led him to build a Forno Bravo Pompeii-style Wood-fired Oven on his Lynch Creek Farm in Rocky Ford so he could bake \u201cTomato Pies\u201d and Artisan Breads. After a lifetime of industry engineering and computer software consulting work, advanced degrees, Penn State University teaching, writing books for SYBEX Computer Books, and a few startup businesses, he finally \u201cretired\u201d to operate an organic farm, start a herd of grass-fed beef, build a log cabin event center, start the non-profit Ben Franklin Society and its companion fund-raising operation he named the Franklin BreadWorks \u2013 a private Dining and Entertainment Club. He received on-the-job, culinary training from Chef Jack McDavid of Philadelphia restaurant fame. An industrious and doggedly persistent work ethic has helped him master making delicious Tomato Pie, Artisan Breads and most recently, Artisan Pasta. CONTACTS and INFORMATION Bob\u2019s Email bob@lynchcreek.com Lynch Creek Farm Website: www.lynchcreek.com Wood-fired Oven Construction Slideshow: http:\/\/lynchcreek.com\/cabin-oven-photo-album-rev\/ Latest Franklin BreadWorks Newsletter: http:\/\/benfranklinsocietync.org\/?attachment_id=1032 Ben Franklin Society Brochure: http:\/\/benfranklinsocietync.org\/?attachment_id=999 Ben Franklin Society Website: www.BenFranklinSocietyNC.org Ben Franklin Society Facebook: http:\/\/www.facebook.com\/BenFranklinSociety BreadWorks Facebook: https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/pages\/BreadWorks-at-Lynch-Creek-Farm-Cabin\/798104410244992\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/www.fornobravo.com\/pizzaquest\/author\/bob-radcliffe\/\"}]}<\/script>\n<!-- \/ Yoast SEO plugin. -->","yoast_head_json":{"title":"Tomato Pie, Rocky Ford, and Me, Part 2 - Pizza Quest with Peter Reinhart","robots":{"index":"index","follow":"follow","max-snippet":"max-snippet:-1","max-image-preview":"max-image-preview:large","max-video-preview":"max-video-preview:-1"},"canonical":"https:\/\/www.fornobravo.com\/pizzaquest\/tomato-pie-rocky-ford-and-me-part-2\/","og_locale":"en_US","og_type":"article","og_title":"Tomato Pie, Rocky Ford, and Me, Part 2 - Pizza Quest with Peter Reinhart","og_description":"Note From Peter: \u00a0Bob’s first installment has drawn a record number of great responses, so I’m excited to offer you Part Two in his ongoing saga. 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