Peter's Blog
Peter's Blog, February 22nd
Peter Reinhart

Hi Everyone,
We had a great demo today at Johnson & Wales University (JWU --JayWoo as we call it) by Chef Ben Roche, the Executive Pastry Chef at Moto Restaurant in Chicago. For those who don't know about Moto, it is one of the few molecular gastronomy restaurants in the United States, featuring a 20 course tasting menu (also a 10 course version for the less adventurous) consisting of wildly imaginative small courses that add up to a big WOW of a night (3 to 4 hours are suggested to properly enjoy the meal). Chef Ben gets to create the desserts, many made with liquid nitrogen or the use of a laser or other cool tools that have been adapted for cooking. He recently obtained a Pacojet, which is one of the most beloved of the new generation of cooking toys, able to turn frozen ingredients instantly into the smoothest, best ice creams and sorbets imaginable. Needless to say, Ben has a sweet, fun, but demanding job in which he must always be thinking outside the box and continually coming up with new, mind boggling dessert concepts. For our students, he

 
Peter's Blog, February 15th
Peter Reinhart

 

This past week has seen an historic change in the world. Aside from all the newsworthy drama related to the transfer of power and revolution in Egypt, a country I visited just three months ago, one thought kept coming to my mind about it: this is the first time in, perhaps, 7,000 years that the people of Egypt have not had a "Pharaoh" ruling them. Maybe the word Pharaoh hasn't always been used, but that's just a placeholder for King, Caesar, Emperor, Sultan, or Dictator. This isn't just a change in leadership, but a change in how leadership will now be done (assuming that the military honors its promise to hold elections soon and turn over the power--a big if, as we know). We've had two hundred years of elected leadership in the USA and that seems like along time; imagine changing to that kind of system after 7,000 years of one variation or another of only Royal, Imperial leadership. It's earth shattering!

I bring this up not because I want to write a political commentary; this is, after all, Pizza Quest, not CNN or Fox News or even The Huffington Post. But Egypt is also the civilization that gets credit

 
Peter's Blog, February 8th
Peter Reinhart

 

We’ve received a nice thread of comments on Michael Hanson’s Guest Column, To Be a Sacred Baker, so I think he may have touched a nerve. One thing I realized after reading the article is that we’ve been using the word “artisan” very liberally here at Pizza Quest to help define what our website is all about, which we characterize as, “A celebration of artisans and artisanship.” Frankly, though, I am concerned that the word artisan has lost some of its ooomph or mojo in the food community, through overuse and clever marketing by supermarkets and advertisers (“Try our new artisan bread…”). So, when Michael coined a new identity for himself, sacred baker, I immediately liked it because it’s too new to be diluted by the marketplace and, because it is so new, it causes us to stop and think and maybe to even ask, “What does he mean by that?”

Michael described himself in his article as someone who transitioned beyond artisan baking into what he now calls sacred baking because that is what he felt called to do with his life, to stop making compromises, and that the concept of artisan no longer took him to that deeper level of connecting with his sense of personal mission. I remember a number of years ago when I was

 
Peter's Blog, February 2nd
Peter Reinhart

 

Hi Again,

On Friday of this week we will be posting a new Guest Column by Michael Hanson, a wood-fired baker, living and working in the UK. In his column, he tells of his transition from a career as a serious, professional, third generation baker to becoming an artisan, committed to cooking with fire as a way of reconnecting with the sacredness of it all. It's a fascinating piece.  While Pizza Quest is not only about cooking with fire, but is really more about the celebrating of artisans and artisanship in any number of areas (including those who bake using any kind of heat source, as we discussed in last week's Peter's Blog), Michael's guest column got me thinking again about the growing movement of wood-fired bakers and cooks, and how this niche has become an important trend (as opposed to a fad). I call the wood-fired oven community fire-freaks, and I

 
Peter's Blog, January 25th, 2011
Peter Reinhart

Hi Everyone,

Ever since we posted the Instructional videos from The Fire Within Conference we've been getting a number of requests to discuss how to make a home oven perform like one of those wood-fired brick ovens in the video. It's tempting to say,"No way, can't be done," but the fact is that most of us don't own a brick oven and even those who do still have to cook much of their food in gas or electric home ovens. I've been hosting pizza parties at our house for years, well before I joyfully received my Forno Bravo Primavera oven, so I can attest to the fact that it can be done--that is, you can make killer pizzas in a home oven, even one like my weenie electric oven that doesn't go above 500 degrees Fahrenheit and doesn't even have convection.

So, here are a few tricks that anyone can use to make your oven perform at a higher level. This will come as no secret, but the key is to maximize what you can get from the oven by using thick pizza (ie baking) stones, not the thin 1/2" stones that break or crack after a few months. Our friend and world famous pizzaiolo Brian Spangler (of Apizza Scholls in Portland, Oregon), who uses an electric oven at his amazing pizzeria, is famous for saying, "It's not the source of the heat that matters, it's about the quality of the BTU's." This is true, to a point, but what most home ovens lack is both quality BTU's and also quality insulation. Home ovens simply do not hold their heat well, certainly not like a brick oven. But baking stones serve as thermal masses, much as bricks do in a wood fired oven, absorbing and then radiating stored heat back into the food. The addition of even one baking stone can make a huge difference, but some of our Pizza Quest Forum writers report the added benefits of using two stones--one to radiate heat from below and one from

 
Peter's Blog, Jan. 18th
Peter Reinhart

Hi Everyone,

Things are moving fast and furious, so here are a couple of updates: On Wednesday I'll post a new recipe, this time for one of my favorite toppings, balsamic onion marmalade. This is one of the most popular recipes I've ever developed and has appeared in at least three of my books. I have a new trick or two to add this time around and will give you some suggestions for how and where to use it, so check back on Wednesday.

Which reminds me to remind you: If you are just now joining us on PizzaQuest.com you may be wondering in what order to watch the webisodes? If you go to the Webisode page, all the previous weeks' segments will be there, though some may have moved to the archives at the bottom of the page. If you haven't yet seen it, start with what we call Pizza As Obsession, which is sampler reel of some of the places we've been--kind of like a movie trailer of coming attractions. After that, go to the Mozza Intro, then to Matt Molina, and finally to the newest segment, which posts this Thursday, LaBrea Bakery Part One.

If you go to the Instructional page you will see other videos, such as Kelly Whitaker of Pizzeria Basta making a buratta appetizer to die for; The Sweet Water Gypsies making a bacon, grana, and fresh mozzarella pizza; and Joseph Pergolizzi making a ricotta-garlic pizza. You can watch these in any order. We'll be adding a new Instructional OR a new Webisode segment every week on Thursday.

On Friday, read Part Two of John Arena's Guest Column on Pizza as Artistic Self Expression. If you are a fan of Pizzeria Bianco (Phoenix), Spacca Napoli (Chicago), or Una Pizza Napoletana (formerly in NYC and now in San Francisco) don't miss his column. If you've never been to any of these benchmark pizzerias, don't miss John's column and then find a way to go to them. In other words, don't miss his column (and if you missed Part One, it's still up on the site.

Let me close by saying that I have gone on record many times with the following statement: "There are only two kinds of pizza: good and very good." In other words, I love all pizza, whether from a chain pizzeria, a single standing unit, or an artisan pizzeria--the only bad pizza

 

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Vision Statement

Pizza Quest is a site dedicated to the exploration of artisanship in all forms, wherever we find it, but especially through the literal and metaphorical image of pizza. As we share our own quest for the perfect pizza we invite all of you to join us and share your journeys too. We have discovered that you never know what engaging roads and side paths will reveal themselves on this quest, but we do know that there are many kindred spirits out there, passionate artisans, doing all sorts of amazing things. These are the stories we want to discover, and we invite you to jump on the proverbial bus and join us on this, our never ending pizza quest.

Peter's Books

American Pie Artisan Breads Every Day Bread Baker's Apprentice Brother Juniper's Bread Book Crust and Crumb Whole Grain Breads

… and other books by Peter Reinhart, available on Amazon.com

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