Peter's Blog
Peter's Blog, IACP Conference, First Recap
Peter Reinhart

Last week I spent five exciting days in NYC attending the annual IACP Conference, which I referenced a couple of posts ago (especially for those culinarians among you who may want to join).  I think of it as fantasy camp for professional foodies.  There were over 40 workshops, panels, tasting sessions, field trips, throughout the conference so it was impossible to attend more than a small percentage of them -- which is why so many of us come back every year, to make up for the ones we missed. Here's a list of some of the things I did:
--"Eat the Street," a tour of Queen's famous Roosevelt Ave. in Jackson Heights, considered to be the most diverse street food scene in the world. In our short (but very filling) tasting, we had Tibetan Momo dumplings filled with a tender, spicy meatball; Ecuadorian Bollos de Pescado (a plantain wrapped fish tamale); a classic Elote tamale bought from a little old lady holding an insulated box filled with them; an amazing Columbian cassava (tapioca) and cheese filled roll called Pandebono (chewy and cheesy--I could have eaten them all day and I definely plan on learning how to make them!); one of the most popular and successful street taco trucks, run by Mirna Allone, called Mexico Lindo where the tacos and also the homemade hot sauces and salsas are truly quest-worthy; and then we had a killer street quesadilla at another stand, Las Quesadillas de la 86, which were like the tacos except they were grilled to order on a small outdoor flat grill, serving business men in suits as well as pedestrians like us; and then we washed it all down with a wonderful Columbian rum-spiked coffee called Caraljillo, at a sweet little jazz bar called Terraza 7.

There were other bites in-between -- I can't recall them all -- but we were stuffed by the time we got back on the elevated/subway #7 train and headed back to Manhattan.  I could (and probably will) do a whole posting on this excursion alone, as it fits so nicely in with our Pizza Quest themes, so I'll quickly mention some other conference highlights and return at another time to expand upon my Roosevelt Ave adventure over the next week or two. But let me say thanks to tour leader Andrew Silverstein, who is putting himself through an economics doctoral program by taking people on these street food tours. If interested, contact him at: streetwisenewyork.com  Thanks also to John Rudolph, Executive Producer of the NPR series Feet in Two Worlds, who documents these inspirational immigrant stories on radio (news.feetintwoworlds.org) , and to Fany Gerson, who provided additional commentary from her perspective as a Mexican-born baker and author now living in New York City.

Other highlights (and I can see now I'll really have to do this as a series of blogs since each one deserves more space than I can give here):
--A "conversation on the stage" between author Ruth Reichl (formerly of Gourmet Magazine and before that the restaurant critic for the New York Times) and super chef Grant Achatz (of Alinea and also Next, in Chicago) on future things we might see in restaurants (inclduing food that actually levitates before you eat it!).

--A presentation on the new generation of reinvented Jewish deli's, with Ari Weinzweig (co-founder of the famous Zingerman's in Ann Arbor, MI), author and Jewish food expert Joan Nathan, Ed Levine (pizza expert and founder of Serious Eats), and Noah Bernamoff, owner of Mile End Delicatessen in Brooklyn, an example of this new renaissance in Jewish deli's (he brought along some of his Montreal-style smoked brisket -- pastrami to the rest of us -- which made him instantly one of my favorite people at the conference.

-- A discussion of how traditional recipes from classic French cuisine evolve over time, featuring cooking teacher extraordinaire Anne Willan (of La Varenne), Master Chef Daniel Boulud, and award winning author Dorie Greenspan.

--A presentation on the growing phenomenon of food festivals -- and how hard it is to do one properly -- by folks who have put them on in Austin, Portland, and in Panama.


--A panel on The Fashion of Food, with super-star chef Marcus Samuelsson, Bon Appettit's Editor-in-Chief Adam Rapaport, New York Times food writer Kim Severson, and Susan Lyne, founder of the on-line magazine and food emporium Gilt Taste.

--A panel on how food can make a city famous (that's a big question we keep asking here in Charlotte, as we see cities like Portland Austin, Charleston, and of course, NYC, Chicago, and London accomplishing exactly that).

--A workshop on the next frontier in baking using sprouted wheat flour and other sprouted grains, by Peter Reinhart (hey, that's me -- I'll write more about how this went in a future posting but for now I will say it was a success -- and thank you to the team at the French Culinary Institute for all their help).

--A product and information fair where we got to taste, touch, and see all sorts of new foods and tools.

--Media tours to various magazines, the Food Network test kitchen and studios, and independent production studios.

--And, of course, the grand finale Awards Gala, where Pizza Quest almost won for Best Food Blog.

--Last but not least, time to visit a few of the fabulous NYC restaurants, in my case, Mario Batali's Lupa and new Iron Chef Marc Forgione's called (surprise), Marc Forgione.

More on all of this in coming postings, but for now, I'm still standing, gained only a few pounds because of all the walking I did (NYC is a great walking city!), and I returned home to tell about it. Next week we'll dig a little deeper into some of the key takeaways I got from this adventure. Next year the conference will be held in San Francisco, my old stomping grounds, so you know I'll be there! If this little tease of some of the things that go on at the conference have enticed you, perhaps you will be there as well.

PS If any of you who reading this were also in NYC at the conference, I'd love for you to chime in below, in the comments section, and share some of your own highlights.

 
Peter's Blog, April 3, 2012, Post-IACP Conference
Peter Reinhart

This is a quickie, with more details to come later this week. Bottom line: we didn't win for Best Food Blog of the Year after all. That honor went to a terrific blog called 5 Second Rule (5secondrule.typepad.com). Many of you voted for us -- thank you so much -- and I promised  to post the results asap, so here it is, just to put everyone out of the misery of waiting for the news. I'll write more fully about it all at the end of the week; I'm still trying to get reoriented to being home after a week in the most intense, fun, crazy, wicked-fun city in the world. Details to come, plus look for the next installment of Brad English's New York City pizza adventure, posting Wed. evening.

Am heading to bed -- it's been a wild ride....

Peter

 
Asheville Bread Festival 2012
Peter Reinhart

I'm headed to NYC, the Big Apple, for the annual IACP Conference (the first time it's ever been held in NYC -- it moves to a different city every year -- next year it will be in San Francisco). It will be like fantasy camp for foodies this weekend, culminating on Monday at the Awards Gala when we'll find out whether Pizza Quest wins for Best Food Blog of the Year.  Thank you, all who voted for us. The voting closes March 30th, so there's still time. Just go to www.iacp.com and look for the big VOTE sign and click through. We are one of three finalists in the judges category but would love to win the People's Choice award too, which includes dozens of other blogs.  I'll report more on this next week when I return.

But first I want to give a quick recap of last Saturday's Asheville Bread Festival, which was fabulous, as always. I did a demo from the upcoming "Joy of Gluten-Free, Sugar-Free Baking," and made gluten-free chocolate pecan cookies and also a walnut, almond sweet bread for the 100 or

 
Peter's Blog, March 22nd, 2012
Peter Reinhart

It's hard to believe, but the time has come for another Asheville Artisan Bread Festival, this Saturday, March 24th.  Seems like just yesterday we were there, that I posted some photos here on Pizza Quest, and that we had a chance to celebrate with artisan bread bakers, cheese makers, and other Asheville area craftspeople in the lovely foothills of the Smokey Mountains.  This is our 8th annual event and I've been to every one, usually presenting a demo on whatever my latest obsession is.  This year, I'll be presenting the first sneak preview of recipes from the new book that Denene Wallace and I just finished called The Joy of Gluten-Free, Sugar-Free Baking, published by Ten Speed Press.  The book goes to press in a few days and won't be available until mid-August, but the folks who come to Asheville will get to taste two of the recipes from the book and learn how to make these unique products.  I'll write a lot more about the premise and methodology of the book in future postings but, suffice it to say for now that the recipes are not only gluten-free but also sugar-free and, essentially, carb-free, with zero glycemic load.

 
Pizzeria Delfina, revisit with Anthony Strong
Peter Reinhart

I mentioned last week that Anthony Strong was recently named San Francisco's 2012 Rising Star Chef for his work at Locanda, Craig Stoll's newest restaurant, located just around the corner from Delfina and Pizzeria Delfina in the part of town they affectionately call, The Gastro. So, in tribute to Anthony's well deserved success and budding fame, and for those who missed this the first time around, we're replaying our visit with him when he was head pizzaiolo at Pizzeria Delfina. In this segment, I sit down with Anthony and Craig as they explain how Pizzeria Delfina evolved out of the original Restaurant Delfina ("If Delfina is John Coltrane, then Pizzeria Delfina is Iggy Pop," Craig says -- I love that analogy!).  You will also hear one of our all time favorite Pizza Quest sound bites, also featured in our introductory webisode at the top of the home page, in answer to the question of why they work so hard and do what they do. As Anthony says, "It's a compounding interest of obsession."

Obsession -- in this context I believe it represents the notion of passion, but perhaps passion on steroids -- is a driving premise of Pizza Quest.  We saw it in Anthony's eyes as we chatted with him and Craig over some potent cups of cappuccino (trust me, it was there both before and after the cappuchino). Craig has it too -- this obsessive streak-- but as an older, mature, James Beard Award winning chef who has already been to the mountaintop, he does a great job of what I call "keeping a lid on his happy." In his own way, though, he too embodies obsessive drive. But as you focus on Anthony in this segment, perhaps many of you can relate to that youthful excitement of discovery, the realization that life is fathomless, opening before us like a springtime tulip; a relentless, enervating, delicious adventure. Anthony and Craig represent bookends, in this regard; the arc between a chef on the rise, at the genesis of what promises to be a great career, and an already celebrated chef who has achieved far more than 99% of the chefs in the world, at the zenith of his success, yet still looking for new mountains to climb and talented young chefs to mentor.

These are the people we look for, the artists we celebrate, whose contagious excitement about their own discovery process leavens the rest of us, whether through the food they feed us or simply the energy that they generate as a result of their obsessive drive on our behalf and that we just want to absorb.

Congratulations again to Anthony -- and also to Craig (and his equally talented wife Annie, the co-creator of the Delfina/Locanda empire)! And, to our viewers, especially the ones who missed this the first time around, enjoy the vicarious thrill of being in their presence and sharing their vision. Fire up your espresso makers and dive in.

 
Peter's Blog, March 12, 2012
Peter Reinhart

March Madness begins this week in college basketball -- my favorite sporting event of the year, full of last second drama and indelible moments of sports greatness. But it is also a big week for pizza too. Tomorrow, the annual Pizza Expo begins in Las Vegas -- the biggest, baddest pizza show in the world and we're sending the intrepid Brad English to cover it for Pizza Quest. I expect he'll have some terrific stories, adventures, drama, and photos to share with us when he returns. For those of you who are also going to be there, look for him -- he's the big, bald dude with the camera, probably with a slice in the other hand. Introduce yourself to him and let him know your a Pizza Quest fan -- it will make his day!

Hey, I just got an e-mail from the Delfina's Restaurant group and guess what? Our friend and super-obsessive pizzaiolo Anthony Strong, featured in our Pizzeria Delfina series of webisodes, has just been announced by the San Francisco Chronicle as their 2012 Rising Star Chef for his work at the newest addition to the Delfina restaurant constellation, Locanda. We saw his talents at the pizzeria, but now he's on an even bigger, broader stage so if you're in SF, check him out at Locanda and tell him you heard about it here.

Also, and I assume the timing isn't a pure coincidence, Parade Magazine made pizza the cover story for yesterday's edition, which I'm sure many of you saw if you get the Sunday paper.  The article is by the wonderful Jane and Michael Stern, of Road Food fame, so they have true street cred. I'd love to hear your reactions to their honor roll list, which included a few places I've been to (Pizzeria Bianco, Al Forno, Serious Pie) and a lot of places I've never been to (Coletta's in Memphis, Buddy's in Detroit, Dean-O's in Lafayette, LA, DiCarlo's in Wheeling, W.V., Menches Bros in Green, OH, Hot Truck in Ithaca, and Frank's in Silvis, IL). Suddenly, I feel like a Pizza Quest virgin again -- I need to get out more!  For those who know these places, or the others in the Stern's list, or who want to nominate a place not on the list, please write to us here in the Comments section.  It's time to find out where greatness is happening and deserves to be recognized. If you do make a nomination, state your case -- we need to know why it's on the list, not just because you like it but by what criteria you make your claim.  Maybe we can assemble the most worthy nominations into a Pizza Quest Hall of Fame of our own.

So, again, just to be clear, tell us who but also tell us why -- it doesn't have to be long but it does need to be convincing. This is our version of March Madness -- so let the madness begin!!

 

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Vision Statement

Pizza Quest is a site dedicated to the exploration of artisanship in all forms, wherever we find it, but especially through the literal and metaphorical image of pizza. As we share our own quest for the perfect pizza we invite all of you to join us and share your journeys too. We have discovered that you never know what engaging roads and side paths will reveal themselves on this quest, but we do know that there are many kindred spirits out there, passionate artisans, doing all sorts of amazing things. These are the stories we want to discover, and we invite you to jump on the proverbial bus and join us on this, our never ending pizza quest.

Peter's Books

American Pie Artisan Breads Every Day Bread Baker's Apprentice Brother Juniper's Bread Book Crust and Crumb Whole Grain Breads

… and other books by Peter Reinhart, available on Amazon.com

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