Peter's Blog, May 24th, 2011
Peter Reinhart

 

This is a time for commencements, graduations, and the completion of cycles. On Saturday we celebrated the annual graduation of our students at Johnson & Wales University and I loved watching our 1,100 grads confirm their educational experience by marching up to proudly accept their diplomas, going through the formal, ritual ceremony that marks such a significant transition into adulthood. It was indeed a confirmation service, like a bar or bat mitzvah, a wedding, a ceremonial acknowledgment of a major transformation in one's life. I think of these ceremonies as the extrinsic out-playing of the intrinsic initiation already experienced by the recipient; the acknowledgment that a significant soul branding, a rite of passage, has occurred. The more you think about it the more amazing it seems -- these graduates, while still who they always were, are no longer the same people. But it all happens so fast, this recognition of transformation, that you don't fully appreciate it except over time, in reflection, almost as a dream.

I'm thinking about this because I see many such rites of passage around me at the moment and, even in my own life, am approaching one: the completion of a new book. I will write more about

 
Is There Really a Perfect Pizza?
Michael Hanson

Recently I returned from a “pizza quest” to Southern Italy and would like to share my thoughts on where and what I think is the perfect or best pizza. I have been making dough for over forty years and pizzas for over twenty; it was only after a spell working at London’s most famous pizzeria, Franco Manca, that I felt capable of making a real pizza. The owner, Guisseppe Mascoli, wanted to create the best pizza in London and, with the help of “pizza consultant” Marco Parente, he set about this task. I believe they achieved their goal; but now my goal was to see if I could find an even better pizza in Italy.

My obsessive quest took me to only two cities, Rome and Naples, and only a handful of pizzerias. I purposely excluded restaurants, even those serving pasta. I wanted the real deal and thought a pizza-only pizzeria would deliver the best pizzas. My survey was in no way accurate, impartial, rigorous, or independent, and my research consisted solely of reading some great posts on the Forno Bravo Forum.

I read of a pizzeria, near my Rome hotel, called Dar Poeta . At first sight the pizzas looked good. I obtained permission to check out the oven. It was old and very hot; the dough soft and very cold. In my experience, one of the crucial factors is the intense heat on a cold, barely fermented disc of hand formed dough, creating the puffed up chewy, crispy cornicione full of holes. In artisan bread baking the quest, or holy grail is, as was pointed out in the Tartine video on Pizza Quest, a dough with irregular holes (or, as the French would say, beaucoup de trop). This is a combination of many factors, primarily a low final dough temperature, long bulk proof, and a hot hearth. Which is, as we saw in the video, why the Tartine bread dough makes a great pizza dough!

But back to Dar Poeta pizzeria. I always choose the pizza with the least toppings, so I chose a simple olive, anchovie pie. It was very disappointing;

 
Tradition--Really?
John Arena

Lately I’ve been thinking about Roger Bannister. No, Bannister is not the latest hot shot artisan pizza maker. For those of you too young to remember, Roger Bannister was a British track & field athlete who on May 6, 1954 became the first person to run a sub 4 minute mile. Roger, who was later knighted for his efforts, broke what was considered by the general public to be an unbreakable barrier. What is interesting is that, to serious athletes of the day, shattering the 4 minute obstacle was considered not impossible but inevitable. The fact is they were correct, and the current US High School record stands at a full 6 seconds faster than Sir Roger Bannister’s World Record achievement of just 57 years ago!

So what has this got to do with pizza? Well, last week I came across an article in a pizza trade publication about a certain well established pizza chain that proudly stated that their pizza has not

 
Kelly's Fontina Challenge Pizza
Brad English

Fontina, Prosciutto Cotto and Wild Arugula Pizza

While at Pizzeria Basta last fall, Peter challenged Kelly Whitaker to come up with a pizza featuring one of Bel Gioioso's wonderful cheeses.  Peter chose to have Kelly use their Fontina Cheese.  What Kelly came up with was a delicious Fontina with Prosciutto Cotto and Fresh, Wild Arugula Pizza.  As with anything Kelly makes, it turned out amazing.  You can see the video in our Instructional section - called "Fontina, Prosciutto Cotto and Arugula Pizza".

What I am trying to do here in my little part of the Pizza Quest world is to explore the notion in the area of artisanship and home chefsmanship (is that even a word? I like it!) that, "If I can do it, anyone can."  I was talking to Peter recently, and I said that I feel a little ridiculous daring to post my adventures alongside such accomplished people such as Peter, Kelly Whitaker, Nancy Silverton, Tony Geminiani and the many more great chefs and pizzaiolos to come.  But, I guess what I do represent is "the people."  *I can't just say "the people" without thinking of King Louis XVI in "History of the World:  Part I":

Count de Monet: “It is said that the people are revolting.”

King Louis XVI: “You said it. They stink on ice.”

 

I am just someone who enjoys cooking.  I found Peter Reinhart when I reached the point where I wanted to make a better pizza crust.  Now, not long after that, I hope I am sharing the home cook side of this quest, the part that is about bringing a piece of that passion home and sharing it on a smaller scale with friends and family.  What I am doing is not always perfect, but it is about the rewarding process of learning and sharing.  In a way, the journey, the quest, is just as fulfilling as the achievement of so called perfection. 

I may be taking advantage of my slot here on Pizza Quest, telling you all about my great pizzas and sharing a nice photo or two (okay, maybe quite a few more than than 1 or 2 photos).  When in reality these may look better than they taste.  You'll never know!  But, the amazing thing is that every time I try something, I learn something new.  For example, I made a couple of Mother's Day Pizzas this morning for my wife.  We fell in love with breakfast pizza while up in Vancouver, visiting Victoria one weekend, where a French chef made us crepes and an amazing egg-topped breakfast pizza.  This morning I made one with scrambled eggs, and one with a partially pre-fried egg to try to get it to cook enough in my home oven.  In the past, I've put a raw egg on the dough and it didn't quite cook enough.  But, this morning it went a little too far.  So, next time, I'll pre-cook it a little less, or maybe throw it on raw again.  Either way, it is the process of trying to find perfection that I'll most likely remember in the long run. 

Anyway, enough excuses from me and onward to my knock-off of Kelly's Fontina Pizza! 

It came out great!  Just look at my pictures! :)

How can you go wrong with such great ingredients! 

Kelly's Fontina Challenge "Fontina, Prosciutto Cotto and Arugula Pizza"

You saw in my previous post that I had made a fresh bruschetta topping.  Now you know why.  Kelly used the juice from the bruschetta as the sauce for the pizza.  I made this early so that it had time to blend together.  I'll repeat that recipe and follow with the rest of this pizza.

Bruschetta topping:
Chopped Tomatoes
Chopped Fresh Basil
A little Chopped fresh Garlic (*I slipped that in this one.)
Olive Oil
Salt/Pepper to taste

The Pizza:
I used Peter's Neo-Neopolitan dough for this one (see the Instructional section). 
Fresh Bruschetta topping (the juice, mainly)
Bel Gioioso Fontina Cheese
Bel Gioioso Fresh Mozzarella
Sauteed Mushrooms
Prosciutto
The Oven
Olive Oil for drizzling when it's done
Fresh Wild Arugula


Spread your dough out on your peel, or work surface. 
*Try not to take pictures and have the dough stick to the surface and then have to spend all kinds of time scraping under it to get some dry flour underneath.  Just a little "insiders tip!"  I'm a one man show here - running back and forth.  By the end of my making a pizza and taking my photos, my camera is covered in flour, sauce and olive oil.

Pour some of the bruschetta juice off onto the dough and spread around as a sauce.  That just looks good by itself. 

Add chunks of the Fontina and Mozzarella
Add a few sauteed mushrooms
Add the prociutto cut up, or torn into bite size pieces. 
*You could cut up the prosciutto, but I chose to tear it up, which
just felt right.  It depends on the final look/feel you are going
for.

Into the preheated oven with my Pizza Stones (crank your oven up as high as it will go).  Always preheat the oven for about an hour to get your stone to temperature.

Once done, drizzle a little olive oil over the pizza and top with the fresh wild arugula.

Cut.  Serve.  Enjoy!

This really was delicious....  I swear!  (My pictures don't lie!)

 

Enjoy the "little" Gallery below...

 
Tartine "Best Loaf" Webisode One
Peter Reinhart

 

The Best Loaf of Bread

Tartine Bakery and Cafe is located on the corner of 18th St. at 600 Guerrero St. and is, like every shop in San Francisoc's one block "Gastro District," a total gem. It is the creation of Chad Robertson (baker extraordinaire) and his wife Elizabeth Prueitt (pastry chef supreme). As you will see in this webisode, you just want to eat everything that the eye takes in. If I still lived in San Francisco -- and I once did live just blocks from where Tartine now is but, alas, it didn't exist till much later -- I would probably start everyday there with a pastry and a cappuccino and then return around 3 PM to grab one of the loaves you're about to see. Our tour guide in this segment is Eric Wolfinger, who was one of the bakers at Tartine at the time we shot this video but has since moved on to a number of other interesting projects, including photographer of Chad's new Tartine bread book. At the time, Eric lived upstairs from the bakery, so, in the next segment you will see us climbing the fire escape up to his apartment where he will make us a pizza on the same dough used to make the astounding French country loaves in this episode.

By the way, Chad was present when we shot this, working away in the background on his breads, and you will catch a quick glimpse of him shaping loaves on the work bench (he's the one with the beard). I've been following his career as a bread baker ever since, as a young man, he had a bakery in Marin County, near Point Reyes National Park--one of the first wood-fired bakers I knew of who was able to build up a viable commercial bakery. But when he and Elizabeth made the move to Guerrero St. and opened Tartine, they really took it to another level. Chad found a way to transition from a wood fired oven to a much larger, gas fired French deck oven without losing any quality, and is now able to make a lot more people happy. The Tartine empire is growing, as they have now opened a restaurant and bar around the corner on Valencia St. called Bar Tartine, and the hits just keep on coming.

What's significant about the success of Tartine is how Chad and Elizabeth, like many others of the past twenty five years or so (maybe we should call it the Alice Waters Generation, since she's the iconic personification of what so many others are now emulating), found a way to stay true to their artisan values and bring so much joy to others. We went to "The Gastro" specifically to film at Pizzeria Delfina, yet we were so captivated by what was going on right next door that we spent an extra day just to get some of Tartine on film for you. We'll continue this Tartine series next time, upstairs, baking a killer pizza in a small home oven, using Tartine's perfect bread dough.

 

 
Peter's Blog: May 10, 2011
Peter Reinhart

Hi Everyone,

I'm headed on the road for an exciting new Pizza Quest adventure. I can't say where yet, but I do promise to report on it as soon as I get back. In the meantime, I want to share with you a blog posting from our friend Chef Jensen Lorenzen of The Cass House Inn in Cayucos, California. This was originally posted on his Cass House Inn blog site: http://casshouse.typepad.com/cass_house_inn_restaurant/2010/11/italy-slow-food.html

We'll be featuring some "delicious" webisodes from The Cass House Inn in a few weeks, but I thought the journal entry that Jensen put up on his own blog about the recent trip he and his wife Grace took to Italy for the annual Slow Food Terra Madre Festival, offers us a brilliant summary of all that Pizza Quest is about too, as we seek to celebrate not just pizza but artisans and artisanship of all types. So, with his permission, I'm going to publish this week and next, Jensen's post in 2 parts. Please visit The Cass House blog posting to view more extraordinary photos of his trip and other great blog entries.

So, here is Part One--enjoy!

Our Culinary Adventures in Italy, and Our Return Home

Before we went to Italy we decided it should be our goal to return with authentic recipes that we could recreate in our "Italian Dinner Series" at the restaurant.  During the first night of service I realized something interesting.  Between myself, our sous chef, garde manger, and chef di partie, we have behind us more than 25 years of experience with Italian food cookery. This was an amusing thought as we struggled to twist tajarin just right for one of our pasta offerings that night.  For what ever reason, we had all

 
"Upside Down" Margherita Pizza
Brad English

When I make pizza, it's always an event.  Baking in a home oven, I can't make an extra large pizza for the family, or friends and call it a day.  I'm limited by not having one of those large pizza ovens!  Frankly, I don't think I'd like to do that anyway.  Half of the fun in making pizza is trying a few different recipes, or letting the kids or guests build their own.


I usually make enough dough and toppings to have enough to ensure there will be left-overs.  I think this may be one of the main things I learned in college - cold, next-day pizza is an important part of life.  It's not as good as when you first have it fresh out of the oven, but it somehow isn't far behind. 

Another ritual that I have developed during my pizza making sessions is to come up with a few recipes and buy the ingredients for those, but leave a pizza or two to chance, or try something new and spontaneous.  I usually leave these pizzas till the end, to use up the ingredients, and to try different combinations.  This is how I came to play with Peter's Herbed Olive Oil and Cheese combination, creating a variety of great cheese breads, and "white" pizzas (no sauce). 

For this recent pizza session, I wanted to try to recreate one of Kelly Whitaker's pizzas that he created for us using Bel Gioioso's Fontina Cheese. 

 
Peter's Blog, May 3, 2011
Peter Reinhart

I have to go to a meeting in a few minutes but before I do I wanted to get this info to you regarding how to order sprouted wheat flour directly from Lindley Mills. I spoke with Joe Lindley yesterday and he said, "Just have them call us here at (336) 376-6190 and we'll work out a way to send it to them."

The mill is located in Graham, NC, near Chapel Hill, so shipping will probably be costly for cross country orders but at least you can get it while waiting for supplies to grow enough so you can buy it off the shelf (I think that may take a while -- only a few people even know about it at this point, and they are mainly the folks who read this blog). Joe said the cost of the flour will vary from week to week depending on how wheat prices fluctuate. They can send out 2 pound bags and maybe even larger ones when you talk to them. For more details on the sprouted wheat flour, read my report on the Asheville Brea Festival a few weeks back (scroll down the home page or simply go to the Peter's Blog page).

I'll be back later today with my report on the Charlotte Gluten Free Expo....

Hey, I'm back with Part Two:

 

On Saturday, April 30th, I attended the Second Annual Charlotte Gluten-Free Expo. In addition to presenting a cooking demonstration featuring a recipe from the upcoming gluten-free book I'm working on, I also had a chance to sit in on some fascinating educational sessions and, best of all, to taste lots and lots of new products. Last year about 400 people came to the festival (another 100 were turned away due to a lack of space), which was held on our campus at Johnson & Wales University. This year, the organizers moved the event to a local conference hotel and, sure enough, about 1,200 people showed up. Folks, we're talking about a serious growth industry here.

 
Mozzarella in The Gastro, Webisode #4
Peter Reinhart

This week we conclude our visit to Pizzeria Delfina with a fresh mozzarella lesson from head pizzaiolo Anthony Strong. If you look closely, you'll see Chef Craig Stoll in the background talking with our producers, Brad English and Jeff Michael (Jeff's the tall one with hair, Brad you'll recognize from his photo on our home page). We had so much fun with Craig and Anthony during our visit with them, culminating in this wonderful, warm bath of milky water pulling and creating silky fresh mozzarella balls out of raw cheese curds. I really wanted to just dive into the bowl and bathe in it--you know, a milk bath like in Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous. But take a look at those pizza shots too--everything comes together to create one seriously beautiful and delicious pizza!

We won't be leaving The Gastro completely, as we still have our visit to share with you at the wonderful Tartine Bakery, next door to Pizzeria Delfina, in the coming weeks. But I want to thank both Craig and Anthony for their generosity and fabulous food during our visit with them. The Gastro is a foodie destination site because of them and the energy they've brought to their small block in San Francisco's Mission District.  I heard a rumor that Anthony is now heading up the kitchen in yet another new restaurant in the Craig Stoll empire, around the corner from the pizzeria. As soon as I get more details I'll share them with you. Till then, enjoy this video and try to get Pizzeria Delfina the first chance you get.

 

 
Peter's Blog, April 26--Top 50 Pizza Blogs
Peter Reinhart

I knew pizza was a hot subject but we recently received a note from the folks at the California Culinary Schools website telling us about their top 50 pizza blogs. We're happy to have made that list, considering we've only been up and running for three months and probably were just getting started when they started working on it. But I want to congratulate all the blogs and websites who got listed. As I looked it over I discovered quite a few that I never knew existed, so this list can now serve as a supplement to our own "Sites We Like" section. Many of the blogs on the list focus on the personal pizza quest of the various hosts, which confirms our hunch here at PQ.com that the notion of quest is a powerful drive in so many of us, and we're glad to know there so many of "us" out there.

A special congrats to Albert Grande at one of my favorite sites, PizzaTherapy.com, who was one of the first to translate his pizza passion into a website and blog that is now beloved by so many. So here's a shout out to you, Albert, as well as to all the others who made the top 50 list (you'll find us down in the "P" section), and to how many ways you each express your love for pizza and for the quest. One thing this list made me wonder is, if there is a top 50, just how many more pizza blogs and websites are there out there? Is this top 50 just the tip of the pizza freak iceberg?

You can find the full list at:  http://www.californiaculinaryschools.org/pizza-blogs and I hope you'll visit as many as you can. I have a feeling we're going to need a bigger bus.....

 
Ice Cream in the Gastro, Webisode #3
Peter Reinhart

 

In this segment, Pizzeria Delfina's head pizzaiolo, Anthony Strong, takes me on a short walking tour of the one block section of San Francisco's Mission District known as The Gastro. We explore the Bi-Rite Market where we eat gourmet chocolate and devour the lightest, flakiest pork rinds (chicharones) I've ever had And then we go across the street to visit with owner Ann Walker at the Bi-Rite Creamery for some truly amazing ice cream, including their famous salted caramel. This flavor is now becoming somewhat standard in fancy ice cream parlors and on restaurant menus, but it all started here, in The Gastro. My two favorite shots in this websiode are of Anthony and me walking up 18th St. (The Gastro is on 18th St., between Guerrero and Valencia Streets), munching on pork rinds with me saying, "If I lived here I'd be eating these everyday and I'd be dead"; and the other is of me, in our Pizza Quest van (we're still working on getting the "Bus") finishing off a pint of salted caramel ice cream moaning that "...it's not fair," by which I meant that it's not fair that I can't eat it everyday for the same reason as the pork rinds--I'd be dead. Yeah, this is the kind of stuff you could die for.

We still have another section of the Gastro to share with you from the Guerrero St. end of the block--one of my all time favorite bakery cafes, Tartine, where we will see one of the greatest loaves of bread in the world (IMHO), and then have a pizza made on that same dough in a home oven. In our next Delfina segment we will be visiting with Anthony Strong again, along with Delfina owner and Executive Chef Craig Stoll, for a lesson in hand pulling mozzarella cheese. But all that is still to come. For now, enjoy The Gastro....

 
A Wood-Fired Gas Grill
Brad English

This is Part II of my recipe pictorial of Jay Buonchristiani's Lamb with Fennel Sausage and Mushroom Pizza recipe. 

You saw the making of the the first pizza in the original pictorial.  I continued on, making 2 more pizzas since you can never just make one pizza anyway, right?!  But, the reason I split this pictorial up was because I sort of stumbled on something interesting.  I have had great results with the Forno Bravo pizza stone in my convection oven (which I posted about previously).  I also use a second stone on the top shelf, which helps retain the heat from above and can even be used to cook a second pizza as you alternate between stones, because the pizzas actually suck the heat out of them as you place a cold one in.  I usually tend to cook my pizzas between 8-10 minutes in the oven.  I'm very happy with this set up and have gotten great results that continue to get better.  Even still, it is nothing like the pizzas coming out of a super hot wood fired oven, as we all know. 

I was thinking about the earthiness of this pizza recipe - covered in lamb sausage with added garlic and fresh fennel and sauteed mushrooms, or Mushies, as Jay calls them.  I also thought I would try this on Peter's Country Dough, which I thought would really go well with the cheesey/earthiness of this recipe.

 
Five Cheese Pizza
Peter Reinhart

Scott Thorsen was my wing man at the Fire Within Conference in Boulder last October. Together, we mixed and shaped enough dough to crank out over 200 pizzas during the weekend, and we managed to save a few Country Doughs for this video demo. Scott, who has his own wood-fired rig in Sacramento, California, and a pizza and catering business that he runs out of the rig called Bella Familia, ably backed up all the presenters at the conference by doing much of the prep work and a lot of the heavy lifting. So, I wanted to give him a chance to get in front of the camera before he headed home and show us his pizzaiolo prowess. In this video

 
The Buonchristiani Lamb Fennel-Sausage and Mushroom Pizza
Brad English

Lamb Fennel-Sausage and Mushroom Pizza paired with a wonderful BUONCHRISTIANI 2006 Artistico Syrah!

Not long after we started the website for Pizza Quest, we received an email from a pizza enthusiast named Jay Buonchristiani who happens to be one of 4 brothers who own a Napa Winery of the same name (http://www.buonwine.com/).  He grew up in Napa and has fond memories of cooking large meals and making wine in the garage with his father.  He continued to build on his love of food while working as a waiter in many of Napa's premiere restaurants as he got older.  You can all guess the rest of "the dream" that he now lives!  After college he returned to Napa to embark on a successful wine career.  But, to make matters worse - at least for the rest of us not living "the dream" -- Jay also has a wood burning oven on his property.  I should stop here.  We don't like Jay very much do we? 

Of course I am kidding!  Without his love of food and wine, I wouldn't be sharing this amazing

 
Let the Buyer Beware!
John Arena

Lately I’ve been thinking about "counterfeiters."  More specifically, I’ve been thinking about a Latin saying that dates back to the early 1500’s, Caveat Emptor, or, "Let the buyer beware." In this era, more than any other, it has become crucial that we understand what is truly behind the labels on the products that we buy. Unfortunately this is especially true of Italian products.  With global awareness creating unprecedented demand for Italian food items the door has swung open for all sorts of deception and outright fraud.


Here is something to think about: The country of Italy is roughly the size of Arizona. Italy has a food based culture. Plain and simple, the Italians can consume much of the highest quality

 
Pizzeria Delfina: A Cappucino and Obsession Webisode #2
Peter Reinhart

Craig Stoll (he's the one with the beard) doesn't look like an obsessed mad man, while his head pizzaiolo, Anthony Strong, well, yeah, he does. But they both are obsessed and mad, each in his own way, which is kind of cool because we get to see two sides of the "fire in your belly" drive that can and should take over one's life, giving it a sense of daily purpose. They make a great team and, in this segment, we get a glimpse of their vision and the love they each feel for feeding people and giving them joy and, simply, bringing them to the table around great food in an unpretentious atmosphere. I love Craig's line, "There's beauty in functionality" as he describes the layout of the restaurant. Lot's of thoughtful lines like these, if you listen closely.

We'll continue this exploration with Craig and Anthony in subsequent segments (and see some of their great pizzas and other goodies!), but for now, enjoy our discussion around some energizing cups of cappucino in the relaxed dining room of Pizzeria Delfina.

 
Report from Asheville, Part One
Peter Reinhart

On Saturday, April 2nd, I attended the seventh annual Asheville Bread Festival. I've been attending since the very beginning, haven't missed a one, and each year it gets better and better and more people show up from all over the country. The format has been that the first few hours are held at Green Life Grocery (now owned by Whole Foods), where local bakers display and sell their breads to the public (by local, I mean from as far away as Chapel Hill to the east and Knoxville, Tennessee to the west--about a 150 mile radius). Mark Witt, who many of you know as the host of the website internetcookingschool.com and also the webmaster for the recipe testing site for my upcoming book, even came from Cleveland and set up a booth selling baking tools such as linen couches, instructional videos, and plastic dough scrapers. At 12 noon, the focus shifted to various off-site demos and presentations all around Asheville, including the new flour mill project that I blogged about here a few weeks ago, and a number of classes by world famous bakers Didier Rosada and Lionel Vatinet and others, as well as a demo by me and Joe Lindley, owner of Lindley Mills. The classes went on till about 4 PM and were all filled to the max; we had about 150 attendees at ours, which was a new record against any of my previous classes at the festival. I'll be posting a photo gallery later this week, as soon as I have a chance to upload them from my camera (I'm very inept at those kind of simple tech things) and will have more commentary next week in this space, but I'd like to focus this week on the topic of my presentation because we introduced a new kind of flour that has me very excited about the future of whole grain baking: sprouted wheat flour.

I made two doughs in advance of the festival, on Thursday actually, and brought them with me on Saturday to Asheville, which is two hours northwest of Charlotte. Just prior to the demo we baked

 
The Stretch and Fold Method
Peter Reinhart

In some of the recipes that we've posted I refer to stretching and folding the dough, so I want to more fully explain it here, as I will continue to provide recipes that utilize this technique. The stretch and fold method (S&F from here on), is a remarkable way to maximize gluten development in a dough with minimum mixing time. It is sometimes referred to as "intermittent kneading" and also by the term "folding." All of these refer to a similar method, though the time intervals may vary from recipe to recipe. In short, it means to intermittently fold the dough over onto itself during the fermentation stage. What this accomplishes is to

 
The Gastro: Pizzeria Delfina, Webisode #1
Peter Reinhart

So here we are, at Pizzeria Delfina, with Executive Chef and owner, Craig Stoll, and his head pizzaiolo, Anthony Strong. In future segments we'll explore the Gastro District with Anthony and we'll sit down with both Craig and Anthony to discuss their culinary vision and pizza philosophy, which I found to be extremely thoughtful. You'll get a first taste of it in this opening segment as we hear all about their flour (Caputo), the cheese (locally farmed fresh mozzarella curds made into smooth pulled mozzarella balls right in the Delfina kitchen -- we have a whole segment coming on that!), and the vibrant tomato sauce, as well as the  baking choices that distinguish the Delfina pizzas from, say, Naples-style pizzerias.

One of my favorite things about Pizzeria Delfina has always been the side dishes -- you'll see some of them in the windows and shelves above the pizza station.   I especially love the marinaded cauliflower and also the grilled asparagus with guanciale and lardo buttered breadcrumbs. The pizza definitely is the star but I feel like the supporting cast are all worthy of Oscar nominations too (or maybe James Beard nominations -- Craig has already won a Beard Award for his work at Delfina, which has long been regarded as the top Italian restaurant in San Francisco). In many ways, Delfina and Pizzeria Delfina are to SF what Mozza and Pizzeria Mozza are to LA -- a world class osteria next door to a world class pizzeria -- something for everyone!  I think you'll love these segments -- I certainly loved filming them and visiting with these two deeply passionate chefs. Here we go….

 
Creativity and Modern Times
Joseph Pergolizzi

A couple days ago, I was doing some work on my laptop at a little cafe in Boulder.  Taking a sip from my Cafe Americano, I looked up to realize I was surrounded by people who seemed completely hypnotized by the light of their computers.  Then a group of high school students came through the line, texting and talking away.  With a quick swipe of a credit card the baristas had them out the door and on their way.  I couldn't help thinking, "My, how things have changed!"

These modern developments have, no doubt, allowed us to be more efficient in many ways.  Still, I have to wonder, what have these times done to the quality of our creative output? How will these

 
Pizzeria Delfina Gallery - "The Gastro"
Brad English

We are beginning our tour of a little neighborhood, actually a little block in the Castro District of San Francisco that has become known to locals as "The Gastro" because of the great food options there.  The reason for our visit was to visit with Craig Stoll and his Pizzaiolo Anthony Strong of Pizzeria Delfina.  On our way, actually the day before we were to meet with them at Delfina - we were arriving from our trip up the California Coast.  We came into town and decided to take a swing by and look at things before coming back the next day to film.  Peter went over to visit with baker Eric Wolfinger and owner Chad Robertson at Tartine, where he had just written, in his book Artisan Breads Everyday, about their French Country Loaf as one of the best loaves of bread he'd ever had. 

After a while, we wandered over and realized quickly that the "quest" was already happening and we weren't rolling our cameras.  Peter asked Chad if Eric could show us around and if he minded if we filmed.  Another great couple of Webisode segments were about to happen.  Unfortunately, I didn't take pictures here so, let me just say that if you are in the area look up Tartine and go.  It's an amazingly warm and welcoming bakery cafe with all sorts of treats to keep you coming back and make it worth the trip.  The loaf of Tartine bread that Peter wrote about is truly memorable.  They take orders and sell out within minutes of it leaving the oven.  I am literally craving it now as I write about it -- it is that memorable.

The next day we filmed over at Delfina Pizzeria and were treated to a walk around the neighborhood where we ended up stopping at Bi-Rite Grocery and Bi-Rite Creamery for some chicharones and amazing gourmet ice creams (yes bacon and ice cream!).

Here are some photos of our adventure. Enjoy the Gallery and the coming weeks of webisode segments that we filmed while we ventured into the delicacies of Pizzeria Delfina, Tartine, and Bi-Rite in "The Gastro"!

 
NY Style Pizza Dough
Peter Reinhart

As we add to our continuing collection of fundamental pizza pantry recipes, I thought it would be important to include one for a New York style pizza dough similar to the ones you get at the many Ray's pizzerias (none of which seem to be related to each other--Famous Ray's, Original Ray's, Ray Ray's, Not Ray's--they just keep rolling out), as well as at so many college and family pizzerias across the country.  This dough makes a thicker crust than the Neo-Neapolitan dough -- such as found at Lombardi's, Totonno's, or Frank Pepe's and Sally's -- and is stronger and less sticky, so it can be stretched and tossed quite easily. If you can get high-gluten flour, such as King Arthur's Sir Lancelot, that's the ideal choice. If not, then use unbleached bread flour. Weights are always more

 

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Pizza Quest is a site dedicated to the exploration of artisanship in all forms, wherever we find it, but especially through the literal and metaphorical image of pizza. As we share our own quest for the perfect pizza we invite all of you to join us and share your journeys too. We have discovered that you never know what engaging roads and side paths will reveal themselves on this quest, but we do know that there are many kindred spirits out there, passionate artisans, doing all sorts of amazing things. These are the stories we want to discover, and we invite you to jump on the proverbial bus and join us on this, our never ending pizza quest.

Peter's Books

American Pie Artisan Breads Every Day Bread Baker's Apprentice Brother Juniper's Bread Book Crust and Crumb Whole Grain Breads

… and other books by Peter Reinhart, available on Amazon.com

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