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Pizza Quest with Peter Reinhart
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2013, Here We Come!
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Sunday, 06 January 2013 20:52
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Welcome to 2013! As we start a new year and also begin our third year here on Pizza Quest, I wanted to give you all a quick glimpse of what's coming up.
But first, a hearty thank you to all our contributors, partners, and supporters. This is especially so for Forno Bravo, who partnered with us from Day One in creating this site and continues supporting us in so many ways. Also, our sponsors, Central Milling, The Fire Within, and DiNapoli Tomato Products, as well as our founding sponsor, Bel Gioioso Cheese. Also, a special thank you to John Arena, our most frequent Guest Columnist, and to all others who contributed columns.
And, finally, I'd like to thank Brad English and Jeff Michael, who came up with the original idea for Pizza Quest and invited me to join with them in making it happen. Brad, as you already know, is our regular "If I can do it so can you" columnist, and he's come up with some incredible pizza concepts as well as lots of fun journal entries and pictorials about his never-ending quest for the perfect pizza. As Calvin Trillin phrased it, he's "…just a big hungry boy looking for a good meal." And thanks also to our webisode Director and fellow Quester, David Wilson, and our editor Annette Aryanpour, who make all our webisodes sizzle.
Thank you all and now onward, to a great 2013!
Upcoming: For those in the Texas area, I'll be doing a short tour of seven Central Market Cooking
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Final Webisode, Tony Gemignani, Respect the Craft
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Friday, 16 December 2011 20:20
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It's fitting that we wrap up our first year of PizzaQuest.com with the final segment of our series with World Champion pizzaiolo, Tony Gemignani. We did it in grand fashion, climbing to the top of a hill above the Golden Gate Bridge, looking back on Tony's new "kingdom." It looks almost like the Emerald City in The Wizard of Oz, and the view was truly majestic, as you will see (you can see Angel Island and a hint of Alcatraz off in the distance too). But it also gave us a chance to reflect back on some of the key life lessons that Tony shared with us during our time with him. His catchphrase at the restaurant is "Respect the Craft," and he elaborates a bit in this segment about what he thinks are the keys to success for anyone getting into the pizza game (for those who were with us way back when we launched, you may recall Tony's guest column -- still available in the archives of the Guest Columns section -- in which he writes about his strong feelings regarding respect for the craft).
Perhaps his most valuable parting advice in this segment, which sums up so perfectly what we've discovered in all our encounters with artisans everywhere that we traveled during our first year of Pizza Quest, and a great place to end the year, is this: "You have to be in love with it."
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Peter's Blog, Dec. 22nd, 2012
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Saturday, 22 December 2012 09:19
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I'll be back in a day or so with the steps for making that amazing 4-minute rib eye in a wood fired oven (as promised), but wanted to get this up asap to let you know that Craftsy just opened their final sale of the year on all courses, including mine on Artisan Bread, but it ends Monday night, so it's just a two day affair. The pizza course that I wrote about last week is almost ready but, as you already know, it will be a freebie (!!), so I'll let you know when it launches in January. But for bargain prices on all their other courses, follow this link: www.craftsy.com/ext/PeterReinhart_holiday
Now, back to final Christmas shopping, baking, and wrapping. I'll return in a day or so, right here on this same blog post, with the steak method. See you then.
Okay, I'm back and here's the steak technique. I'm sure this can be done in a regular oven, but not sure yet how to get one as hot a WFO. I'm thinking of trying this with my new Baking Steel, on the top shelf in my oven, just under the broiler, but that will be for another day and another posting. Here's how I do it in my Primavera 60 (sorry, no photos this round, but the next time I make these steaks I'll shoot the sequence and post them):
Fire up the oven so that it is as hot as I can get it -- at least 1,000 degrees everywhere. I put a cast iron skillet in the oven at least 10 minutes before cooking the steaks, and let the pan get white hot -- yes, white. Meanwhile, I season 2"-thick rib eye steaks (I usually can fit two medium size or three small steaks in the pan, but they cook so fast that's it's okay to cook them one at a time if you prefer using a large piece). Use a liberal amount of freshly ground black pepper and kosher salt, and sprinkle both sides. After the salt and pepper goes on, mist both sides of the steak with olive oil spray (or brush the steaks with olive oil), and leave them on a plate, covered, for about 30 minutes to take off the chill.
When the time comes to cook, be sure to have thick oven mitts or pads on hand, a metal table to land the pan on (you can also use the oven ledge), tongs, and a timer set to two minutes. Pull the pan out of the oven to the ledge and drop in the steaks so that they lay flat and do not overlap each other. Slide the pan back into the oven and turn on the timer. After two minutes, pull out the pan to the ledge, turn the steaks over with the tongs (they will be sizzling and already caramelizing) and return the pan to the oven. Re-set the timer for another 2 minutes, and put the pan back into the oven. After these 2 minutes the steaks will be a perfect medium rare in the center so, if you want them more done that add an extra 30 seconds on each side (2 1/2 minutes per side instead of 2). Remove the steaks from the pan and place on serving plates. Let them sit for 8 to 10 minutes before serving to allow the juices to redistribute. In the meantime, you can use the same pan, even with the steak fat from the previous round, to cook another round.
By the way, you can cook burgers in the same manner -- but just one minute per side -- yes, one minute!
The steaks and burgers I've cooked in this manner are, without question, the best I've ever made or had --like buddder. I'd love to hear from you if you've ever tried this or, perhaps, have a method you prefer. It will take some convincing to move me off of this method but I'm sure some of you have a few magical techniques of your own. When the weather gets nicer here, I'll fire up the Primavera and shoot some photos, but I have a feeling you can already visualize what these sizzling steaks will look like.
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A Wandering Desert Road Pizza
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Thursday, 11 October 2012 09:47
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I was walking through one of my local markets and, in the produce section, a large oval green shape caught my eye. As I turned to look closer and my eyes focused on what I was seeing, my smile grew at the same time. My market had fresh cactus! I had literally made my pickled cactus sauce, ode to the Nevada desert pizza, "The Hwy 15 Pizza," a couple days ago. I was going to order some cactus online until this fortunate meeting of me and the spiked Napolea Grande leaf. If you can't find it in your local store, I found this informative site that grows and sells Organic Cactus called RivenRock.com. They have videos and recipes on using their products, which I relied on when I brought my "leaf" home from the store.
I continued to shop, but now I was on another mission -- to do another version of my Hwy 15 Pizza that featured a sauce made from pickled cactus. Lets see, what other desert ingredients can I bring to this pizza party? I figured I would keep this in the same vein as the original Hwy 15, but add something to it here and there to see where this experiment might lead. I found some Queso Fresco, which is a light, fresh Mexican cheese that can substitute for goat or feta cheese as a lighter fresher cheese option. I thought this might work well, allowing the other ingredients to shine. I figured I would once again use the pickled cactus sauce as the base, but add some fresh jalapeños into the mix.
After wandering around, I figured I had enough new items to create something that started on Hwy 15, but maybe ended up out on a deserted dirt road that wandered across the Nevada desert.
A Wandering Desert Road Pizza
Mesquite Pizza Dough
Pickled Cactus and Jalapeño Sauce
Queso Fresco
Fresh Cactus Leaf
Thin sliced Pancetta
Whole Sage Leaves - chopped, or torn
Fresh Jalapeños - sliced
PREP
Mesquite Pizza Dough
I had come up with the idea of creating a new dough for my original desert-themed pizza. While researching ideas for this pizza, I inevitably came across mesquite, which many know as a "flavor" associated with grilling. This could be an interesting thing to add to the wood mixture in a WFO. Though it's not necessarily associated with Nevada, I felt that it did embody desert life and was heavily used by Native Americans as a staple food source. They create a mesquite flour by grinding down the dried mesquite pods in a mill. It lacks any gluten and has a very intense flavoring - which changes when cooked/baked. It can become bitter. The website where I purchased my mesquite generally recommends blending the mesquite flour at 1/3 of the volume of what you are making.
I chose a Fire-Roasted Western Honey Mesquite Flour. Peter suggested I start with my first batch at 10% mesquite to total flour. I used the basic Neo-Neopolitan Pizza dough and added in my mesquite. (Note: If you've read my blogging much, you'll have heard a few comments by my son Owen, or other family members. Owen may have a knack or a finely tuned palate. I once was making a few pizzas with some Bianco DiNapoli Tomatoes, used straight, as the sauce to see how good they were. Owen said, "Dad, this is the best sauce you've ever made!" Well, all I did was open the can. Thanks Owen! He did it again with this Mesquite Dough. He said, "Dad, this is the best crust you've ever made!" He had no idea I made this with the mesquite flour. He just showed up for some testing of the finished product. Anyway, as Owen can vouch, it's good!)
Here's a link to The Mesquitery where I got the Fire-Roasted Western Honey Mesquite Flour: www.mesquiteflour.com
Neo-Neopolitan Dough Recipe: *Link
Pickled Cactus and Jalapeños Sauce:
The idea for this "sauce" comes right from Jersey's own Mossuto's Pizzeria. Here's the link to my version of their Fat Lip Pizza - *Link. I wanted to incorporate cactus into the pizza for obvious reasons. When you think of the desert cactus is likely one of the first iconic images that you think of. I picked up a jar of Pickled Nopalitos (Cactus) and had a jar of my Mom's Soy Pickled Jalapeños around and went from there.
- Pickled Nopalitos (Cactus)
- Pickled Jalapeños
- Garlic
- Olive Oil
- Fresh Ground Pepper
Chop the cactus and jalapeños and some garlic to taste and place in a bowl.
Add olive oil and freshly ground pepper.
Measure and add ingredients to taste. The cactus is somewhat sweet with a nice tang from the pickling. The jalapeños add some heat and a little salt - because I am using my soy pickled jalapeños. Pull the solids from the sauce onto your pizza, being careful to manage how much oil you get on the pizza. You don't want it to be too runny. Mix the ingredients and let sit to marinade for as long as you can for the flavors to come together.
Fresh Cactus Leaf
To prepare your cactus leaf check out this simple video demonstration at RivenRock.com. *Link
It's really simple. You use the scrubber side of a sponge to lightly remove the spines. Then you simply trim the edges and slice your cactus into the shape you want to use.
A Wandering Desert Road Pizza
Spread the dough
Add a scoop of the sauce and spread across the dough. Add more as desired, or place on top of the pizza before, or after cooking.
Break off chunks of the Queso Fresco to cover the pizza.
*Prior to assembling the pizza:
Lightly fry up the chopped sage leaves and sliced jalapeños until just tender. They will cook more in the oven. I used a little of the Pickled Cactus Sauce as the oil.
Add pancetta over the cheese.
Add your sliced fresh cactus
Top with some of the sautéed jalapeños and sage.
Into the oven it goes.
When the pizza comes out of the oven, you might drizzle a little of the Pickled Cactus/Jalapeno sauce, or just dig in.
Layers! What struck me here was the layers of flavors/textures created using fresh cactus and pickled cactus. I am now a born again cactus fan! I have since made some of my favorite homemade salsa using chopped fresh cactus. It has a really fresh flavor. I sliced the cactus thick enough so that it retained it's moisture. It was like the oasis of moisture on my pizza, just like the cactus is in the desert. The pickled cactus added a vinegary accent, while the fresh cactus gave a soft fresh juicy note as you bit into it.
I will definitely keep playing with this new ingredient while exploring my desert pizza experiment as well as on other foods I enjoy like: tacos, burgers, salsas, salads and maybe more?!
Enjoy!
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Harvesting Tomatoes with Tony
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Thursday, 01 December 2011 07:54
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This is one of my favorite webisodes of all time. Tony Gemignani took us on a field trip to Stanislaus County, to the town of Westley (near Modesto, CA), where we met Steve Rouse, the marketing director for the world famous Stanislaus Food Products company. We arrived just a week or so before the peak of the harvest, but found a few vines that were, nevertheless ripe and ready, as you will see. But more importantly, as you watch us in the field, the wind blowing, surrounded by acres and acres of low lying tomato vines, the smell of those tomatoes infusing the atmosphere with that distinctive tomato vine aroma (well, you had to be there for that part), there were a few indelible moments that I will never forget. First, for Tony, who we've been featuring for the past few months in this webisode series and whose talent is prodigious, this was not just a source for his tomato products but a place where, as he explains, he feels a deep connection to his own heritage, especially to his grandfather, a hardworking farmer and his personal hero, and this sense of connectedness clearly infuses and informs his own work. For Steve, as you will hear, there is a connection to his company's own quest for quality, embodied in the values of the owner, Dino Cortopassi, to keep reaching for perfection. One of Dino's sayings, and Steve shares it with us in this segment and I'm sure I'll be stealing it many times in the future, is: "In the race for quality, there is no finish line."
Even if you can't smell the tomatoes the way we did that day, take it all in through these images and words. There are a lot of life lessons in this segment, transmitted through many generations of hard earned wisdom.
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