Oven Roof

[Jim Shenk]

I'm thinking of using cedar shingles on my oven roof, and have seen examples of it in the photo section of this forum. Is this a bad idea in terms of fire safety?

Thanks, Jim in Indiana

[christo]

I have a cap with fire screen and then added another finer mesh inside that. I had some of the metal screen left over from a stucco job.

After adding the second layer of finer mesh - I've never seen another spark escape my chimney (without the extra screen it was quite a small one at that.) I think it has mostly to do with the short run on my chimney - normal fire places have a much longer run with which to burn off most of the sparks. Either way - I think adding an extra layer of mesh is a good idea.

If you are dying for cedar shakes - I'd go for those treated with fire retardant - or consider synthetic versions. The fake ones are a bit pricey but thank goodnees our oven roofs are small.

If I had gone with a sloped roof - I would have likely gone with clay tiles - For fire consideations and I love the look with the ovens I've seen.

Pls send us pics when you're done roofing!

Christo

[Jim Shenk]

Thanks for the advice. I still have some time to think it over, and had also thought of clay tiles or even slate. It sounds like shakes would probably work ok, if I take special precautions.


Jim

[Archena]

What Christo said!

With a good spark arrester, good chimney maintenance and fire retardant there shouldn't be a problem. Cedar shakes have been used with chimneys for centuries - it's not that likely to catch fire. Still, why chance it if you don't need to? Fire retardant or longer lasting synthetics are both good ways to go.

[Jim Shenk]

Is the fire retardant a product that's available at lowes, menards, etc? Is it simply brushed or sprayed on each shingle before it's nailed down? I'm still thinking shakes if possible. What about slate? I would definitely love slate, but have no experience working with it.

Thanks, Jim

[Tscarborough]

Here is one way to fireproof it:

How to Fireproof With Borax | eHow.com

[Archena]

Preferably you buy them pretreated - they are pressure treated with the retardants and it lasts much longer. There are fire retardants you can apply yourself but they are more complicated to use and require a sealant to keep it on the shake.

Slate is a really good alternative. No risk of fire and it will far outlast cedar. The drawback is installation - you can do it yourself but you need to do your homework first or you'll really regret it. Still, slate is beautiful, fire impervious and will last longer than the structure so it's a good choice if you're willing to put in the work.

There is another way - concrete 'slate'. It's what it sounds like - concrete tiles formed to look like slate. They're easier to install and lighter (which matters because slate requires a beefier structure) but you'll have to be careful about the pattern or it will be obvious that it isn't real slate.

[Archena]

Um, Mark, look at Scar's link again - one of the warnings is that borax can age wood. That might not be a good choice for something where appearance is important. I really don't know anything about it but I'd want to find out what it would do to cedar before spraying it on expensive shakes.

My vet's office has a shake roof that is evidently reaching its limit. They aren't having leaks as far as I know but the roof really doesn't look good up close. Personally, I wouldn't want to sink that kind of money into something only to have it age badly.

Okay, that, and I'm cheap...

[Dagored154]

I plan on using metal studs and a metal roof. what material is recommended to put under the metal roof? do I even need it? I am used to putting down plywood but I guess that is a no-no. any ideas.

[mrchipster]

Originally Posted by Dagored154

I plan on using metal studs and a metal roof. what material is recommended to put under the metal roof? do I even need it? I am used to putting down plywood but I guess that is a no-no. any ideas.

I have a standing seam metal roof and used plywood on most of the roof but tile backer cement board within a 12 inch radius of the outer surface of the flue. I have over 16 inches of Perlite over top of 3 inches of ceramic blanket. I doubt flames will leap out of that layer. I also have metal soffit and facia.

Chip