Help with Stucco Cracks Design Styles, Chimneys and Finish Discuss Help with Stucco Cracks in the Pizza Oven Design and Installation forums; I stuccoed the outside of the dome on Sunday & kept it covered with plenty of wet burlap (25 sacks) ...

[Balty Knowles]

I stuccoed the outside of the dome on Sunday & kept it covered with plenty of wet burlap (25 sacks) until last night. Tonight I noticed a mosaic of hairline cracks everywhere. I used the high temp formula from the chemist at Lumnite. 2 calcium aluminate, 2 sand , 1 Fireclay approx 3/4 thick.

I mixed the dry ingredients well & then added water to make a pretty stiff mortar.

What's wrong?

Is this normal? or shoud I re do?

Theres too many to grind & fill. See pics, I dampened the stucco down to highlight the cracks

[CanuckJim]

Balty,

I'm not familiar with the formula you used, so can't say in that direction. However, you mention that the mortar was stiff. Coatings of this kind should be mixed wet, not stiff. By wet I mean just before the slump stage. Consider this one a scratch coat. Score it a bit, then recoat with a half inch of wetter mortar. You should be fine. Just don't let the first coat cure too much before you do it.

Jim

[nissanneill]

Balty,
I am not too sure of what you call stucco!
My interpretation of stucco is a water proofing cement render with small bits of the same render material thrown onto the smoother renderred surface to make a decorative and waterproof finish.
I renderred (stuccoed?) my oven using a simple mix of 3parts red plaster sand to 1 part portland cement. Been using it after the recommended week of conditioning/drying it out and 3 hefty cook-ups and not so much as a hairline crack. This 3/4" render went over 3 x 1" layers of vermiculite cement (5 vermiculite:1 portland cement) which was coated over a 1" high temperature themal blanket.
I agree with Jim, roughen it up and recoat it, possibly with a more commonly reliable render/stucco formula, because after all it should not be subject to any kind of heat. You may wish to give it a lite wash with a portland cement/water slurry coat (which acts like a primer coat), to improve the bond.Tile stores have primer materials that are used to improve the bond of tile adhesive over existing or older cement surface.

Neill

[Balty Knowles]

Thanks for the response guys,

Niell, I'm a Pommy & familiar with your terminology but have learned to use Americanisms after many years. I guess that would make me a Limey. I'm using stucco as a generic term for the additional high heat mortar coat that covers the dome before insulation.

Jim,

I will score the surface but it's as hard as a rock, I can use a grinder.
I'll continue with a much looser mix but the first coat will have already cured for a week by the time I'm able to re coat, do you think I'm OK?


I got he formula from Calucem, makers of Lumnite calcium aluminate. The chemist was very helpful. Interestingly he said DO NOT use lime with calcium aluminate because it is an accelerator & the mix goes off very quickly anyway, but to use equal parts sand & Lumnite with 1 part fire clay.

Thanks again

[CanuckJim]

Balty,

Depends on what you want to do, add more refractory mass or do a finish coat. If it's a finish coat, stucco proper in fact, I'd go with Neill's idea and use a primer on your first coat to provide the stick you need. That way, you'd be okay for sure.

Jim

[Balty Knowles]

Jim,

I'm laying an extra layer of refractory mass before I install the insulation, Not sure that it's even necessary but I already started. The dome itself will be enclosed in a brick structure & never seen again. (I hope).

I worry about the cracks from a functional aspect, e.g. what will happen if they expand & cause the stucco to loosen in big chunks?

I intend to cover with a 2" insulfrax blanket & then Vermiculite, is this enough to stop any chunks dislodging & compressing the insulation?

As you can see I worry a lot.

Thanks

Balty

[CanuckJim]

Balty,

While the cracks may seem unsightly, from what I can see of the photographs, they aren't structural. What I'd do is give it the necessary cure time, then begin a series of SMALL fires to see if the cracks get any bigger and/or smoke appears through them. If smoke leaks, you will have to seal the dome again. It's unlikely that big chunks of your material will break off.

Try to do your coat in one go, fairly wet for a good bond. Depending on the material already there, you might have to wet what's already dry before trowelling on. You want a good, strong bond. Just a question, but if this is a consideration of added mass, why not build a form and pour into it? That way, all you'd have to trowel out is the top.

Jim

[Balty Knowles]

Thanks Jim, I'll do that. You can barely see the cracks unless I dampen down to highlight them.

With regard to pouring into a form, thanks for the idea, I think it would be great for the insulation as well.

I'm very short on insulation space & only have 3 to 4 inches from the dome to the brickwork. See pics. I will extend the brickwork up from the stand to form a round tower built into the retaining wall.

If I place the insulfrax around the inside face of the brick housing & partially fill the space left in the center with vermiculite concrete I think It'll reduce some heat from the floor leaking under the blanket & also keep the blanket flat up against the face of the brickwork.

Regards

Balty

[CanuckJim]

Balty,

Take maximum advantage of the space you have for insulation. Stuff the gap right full. Don't forget to allow enough room above for even more than you can get on the sides. Retrofitting these ovens is a nightmare: do it from the beginning. Looks to me like you're on the right track. Are you the brickie? If so, nice work.

Jim

[Archena]

Originally Posted by CanuckJim

Balty,

... Are you the brickie? If so, nice work.

Jim

Um, would it have been bad work if he wasn't?










On a (hopefully) helpful note: Stucco




On a semi-helpful, hopefully humorous note: if the second layer cracks you can stain it and tell everybody you were going for the 'crackled' look. (People actually do that on purpose! )


And on the final note: yes, I'll go annoy somebody else now...