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#1
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| Hello All Got to the point where I am framing the roof and about to sheat the entire thing with Dura-Rock. As it says in most of the plans I've read. A couple months ago when I started this I came across a guy who was rehabbing an old house and offered me 6"x10" rectangular clay tiles. They are a tongue and groove type meaning they have a lip to fit one another on each end and on the top. There are 2 preformed holes where you would nail or screw them in at the top. Here's the problem... since I'm not sheating with plywood or OSB, does anyone have any ideas of a good way to tack they shingles down? I thought of cheap lathe wood or maybe OSB over... but weight becomes a issue I would think. So... any ideas? I like the clay tile idea, but I think nailing directly into the Dura-rock wouldn't be that great of an idea... or sturdy.So let it fly guys... IDEAS!!!!! THANKS AGAIN IN ADVANCE! |
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#2
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| Tiles and slates and shakes were all put up with lath. Rough cut 1 x 2 lath for cedar roofing is a standard lumberyard item, but that said, you could overlay your cement board with plywood and use galvanized deck screws to put them on the roof. Remember to keep them loose: individual tiles are supposed to wiggle a little. |
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#3
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| I think the lath across right across the cement board should work fine.
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#4
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| If you use lath directly on the cement board, you might run into a problem with your fasteners, because they will have a tendency to strip out. Personally, I'd lay thin ply over the cement board and attach to that. Three eighths construction grade fir would do nicely. Jim |
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#5
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| When you fasten to Durarock, pre-drill and use plastic anchors and screws. |
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#6
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| How about Nails or screws!? I'm kinda worried about weight and look..... So fir or REALLY thin plywood... GREAT!!!! That will save on time... Kind of like laying a tile floor, but in reverse... Any other tips!? Thanks for the loose tip.. I would have snugged em for sure! THE ACTOR! |
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#7
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| Don't even use the wonder board on the roof just sheet it with 1/2" ply less weight. |
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#8
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| I did use the wonder board since it provides some protection against any moisture that might get under the tiles. I marked the location of the aluminum roof rafters on the wonder board and then screwed a thin piece of pressure treated lumber (Home Depot in the fence section) into the aluminum. I then used copper nails to fasten terra cotta tiles to the pressure treated wood strips. The terra cotta tiles had an overlapping capability on the top as well as on the sides. I learned the hard way that one should lay out the spacing of the wood strips rather precisely to match the length of the tiles. Otherwise the nail hole in the tile can lie off the wood strip when you reach the roof ridge. I ended up laying the wood strips on the roof where I thought they should be but not attaching them. I then laid a few tiles at the bottom row and additional tiles on top of them working my way up to the roof ridge. Once I was satisfied that everything lined up I marked the location of the wood strips, took off all the tiles and screwed the wood strips in place. Ensuring that the ridge cap tiles would fit correctly also took some care. Lots of luck.
__________________ Fred Di Napoli |
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