The Picton Pizzeria

[ihughes]

After 3 weeks of weather finally got to finish the stand. Although when your 4-year-old is ''helping'' it may be more fun but it does take twice as long

Hoping to speed things up now but I have a question about the framing for the hearth.

• I was going to buy cheap pine from the local hardware store and burn it afterwards to cure the oven. The thing is that I can get recycled hardwood for the same price. Is there any problem burning pine in the oven as long as it isn't treated and properly dried? Or am I better off with the hardwood?

Or does it matter and I should just go with the closest option

• Also, we're planning on some moroccan tagine cooking. Is a higher dome better or should I go with a lower one as long as it accommodates the tagine? Any opinions/experience welcomed.

cheers, Ian

[wlively]

I used pine to frame mine. It was left over from tyhe patio project. The only pieces I have burned were a few 2x4 scraps and some 1x1/2 stakes and they were no problem at all.

My suggestion would be to go with what is cheaper, that being equal, what could you use later? Which would be better for finish out or other projects?

[maver]

Although pine is cheaper, it's not as nice to burn as hardwood (weak flames, lots of popping), so if they are equal (price and useability) I'd get the hardwood.

[RTflorida]

I would say long term burning of softwoods (pine) is not a good idea, fro the same reasons listed by Maver as well as creosote/tar build up in the chimney.
That said, burning a few 2x6 or 2x8 during the curring or in the initial larger fires shouldn't be a problem; just don't make a habit of it.

RT

[ihughes]

Thks. I thought the pine might not be as clean to burn.
I think I'll go with hardwood and use it after for benches etc

cheers
ian

[ihughes]

After a couple of weeks of bad weather finally got started on the framing for the hearth. Measured three times and still had a wrong measurement for the plywood base. In dividing the overall area in to 2 equal rectangles I ended up with 2 rectangles that would only cover half the area.
Luckily I picked up the mistake before getting the hardware guy to cut it for me so I've left that for another day after I recheck the measurements.
Measuring three times cutting once is a good idea but it looks like I need to do a bit more.
Anyway, got it half done today, hopefully the weather holds and tomorrow I'll get the frame finished and start calling friends to help pour the concrete and vermiculite.

[Archena]

Okay, I'm not clear on how you're calculating this thing. If you're trying to derive the area of your rectangles from the area of the circle that's where trouble started.

If you want two equal rectangles to overlap the oven then measure the diameter (length) and width of the oven. Multiply the length by 1/2 of the width (actually the radius). The result will be a rectangle that overlaps the exterior and is half the width of the oven. (In blue on the diagram).

If you want two equal rectangles that fit inside the oven you need to decide how you want them to fit. From the side touching the oven walls measure the length you want then measure the distance from the point touching the wall to the centerline of the oven. (In red in the diagram). You can adjust this to whatever dimensions you want - you might want to use a piece of cardboard to better visualize how the thing will fit. (In the diagram I used more than one possibility - all are rectangles, however). Then have two of them cut.

Basically, if you want them to fit inside it requires eyeballing then measuring. The area of the circle really won't help you much - it's the area of the rectangle that you need*.




Hope this helps! If not, forward any complaints to: www. quitannoyingme. pht**






*You can get closer using the derivative but who wants to do calculus? If you're trying to maximize the area then you'd need to do that - I'm not so good with calculus...
**No, it's not a real website...

[Unofornaio]

Originally Posted by ihughes

Thks. I thought the pine might not be as clean to burn.
I think I'll go with hardwood and use it after for benches etc

cheers
ian

If you want to re-use the form wood you can coat it with a very strong solution of liquid dish soap (I think you guys refer to it as washing up liquid) and water in a pump sprayer. Coat the forms several times, wait between coats a little bit (if it drys between coats it works better) I usually do it the day before the pour and then the same day.
This is just as effective as form oil but will not ruin the wood for later use like form oil or diesel will.

[ihughes]

Finally finished the framing for the hearth slab. Remind me next time to get someone to help hold the various bits of wood when putting it together (next time!!) Would have saved a lot of time. I've posted some pics in the hearth and stand photo gallery.
http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/photoplog/index.php?c=1

I've used builder's plastic on top of the plywood instead of oil or dish detergent. Is there any problem with that? I won't be pouring til next weekend at the earliest so I can always change it.

I've used 200x50 wood for the box. How essential is the cargo strap to keep the boxing in shape when I pour the concrete? Could I nail a 100x50 across the top instead? Apart from getting in the way are there other considerations?

ian

[Hendo]

Ian,

A few observations from my build if I may.

I built my formwork by myself without too many problems, one side at a time. I think the main reason it didn’t prove problematic is that I didn’t have to cut the support legs to exactly the right height, as I attached them to the outside face of the timber planks, rather than underneath. As a result, it was very easy to adjust the height of the formwork on each side, prior to fixing the legs. After fixing the legs, each form assembly was quite stable when fixing them all together. See first pic below.

The second is that I screwed some small blocks to the ends of the timber forms on each side of the hearth slab. These enable the screws which secure the assembly to be fastened into cross-grained timber in all corners, rather than into the end-grain of the adjacent timber form. A much stronger joint results, and eliminates the need for strapping to keep everything together. The second pic shows this in detail for one of the corners.

Lastly, I threaded some wires through the timber forms from one side to the other, and tensioned them to prevent the formwork from bowing out during the concrete pour. These obviate the need to brace the centre of the forms with angled props, so you don’t end up tripping over them during the pour! In the first pic, you may be able to make out two angled wires running from left to right, tensioned with short lengths of rebar, and one twisted one going from top to bottom – where a small metal plate prevented it from cutting in to the timber form. Worked a treat, and didn’t get in the way of the pour like pieces of timber nailed across the top would – in fact they became part of the pour, and the slab!

Hope this helps.

Paul.