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| Question for those on the forum who have built a pompei style brick oven. I fired mine up for the 3rd time this past weekend. I built a somewhat larger fire this time but still not hot enough to cook in it. Oven got to about 450F. I notice the brick facade developed a hairline crack in the mortar. This crack travels horizontally across the facade on both sides of the oven door and is at the level of the brick lintel holding up the bricks for the chimney. I was surprised to see it as I have been building up the fires. My first oven had done the same thing but I had an arched entry way in the oven and a square one on the facade. The arched entry way had a thin piece of metal bent in the shape of the arch and was permanent in the oven. When this had happened that time I exchange emails with Alan Scott and he thought maybe the heat expanding the metal that was arched caused it to lift the facade and develop the crack. This time I have a square oven entry with brick lintel and an outer facade that is arched with no metal (self standing) and again I get this crack. It never amounted to any more than that the first time but it sure takes away from the all the hard work. Anyon else have similar experiences? Thx. |
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| This also came up in the brick-oven group and I posted a note about it in answer to a query. (Alan seems to have disappeared from the group again leaving me as the only other brick designer -- Kiko's an earthenware guy.) Here's the relevant msg thread: --- In brick-oven@yahoogroups.com, "ovenenth" <ovenenth@y...> wrote: > The facade is common clay brick (not fire brick). How is the thermal > break introduced? It is too late for this one but interesting to know > how one does this? ### You use either an expansion joint or a bond break. The expansion joint uses an elastic medium like a neoprene or rubber pad in place of the mortar & then a flexible sealant to keep the water out. The bond break places a separation layer between the disimilar materials, usually something like building paper or flashing, to allow for a slip plane. In this case you'd keep an air gap between the firebrick & the common brick to act as the thermal bond break. Some folks will also use a different joint called a "control" joint that is designed to crack (it uses inflexible joint materials instead of rubber or neoprene). The idea being that you put this type in a place within the structure where it won't affect the structural integrity or aesthetics - kind of "it's going to crack anyway so I'm going to make it crack where I want it to crack and no one will see it." |