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#1
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| David - is it recommended to taper the flue as you have done? Is there a known ratio between the top and bottom for the best draw? And one last bothering question, what adhesive did you use? Thanks, Les...
__________________ Check out my pictures here: To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. "Hell, there are no rules here - we're trying to accomplish something" - Thomas A. Edison |
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#2
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| I first used refractory mortar to attach the two halves of the refractory flue tile funnel together: I found the answer - I just didn't think that mortar was the magic bullet for this application. I thought there was some kind of magic mouse milk that would be better. Les...
__________________ Check out my pictures here: To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. "Hell, there are no rules here - we're trying to accomplish something" - Thomas A. Edison |
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#3
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| Quote:
And yes, you have figured out that it's just adhered with heat-stop. Don't move it until it's had at least 24 hours to set up. The flue tile is MUCH harder to cut than fire brick. It mostly doesn't fit under the wet saw, so it has to be cut with the diamond blade in the angle grinder. I might consider building a flue funnel from fire brick splits if I did it again. I get a GREAT draw, but of course I have a good 16 feet of flue above my oven. With that much flue, It would probably draw with no taper at all. Of course, after today I have Swiss flue tile envy. |
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#4
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| Thanks David - appreciate the info. AND, the swiss have nothing over the master builder from New Jersey ! Les...
__________________ Check out my pictures here: To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. "Hell, there are no rules here - we're trying to accomplish something" - Thomas A. Edison Last edited by Les; 10-22-2007 at 09:01 PM. Reason: spelling |
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#5
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| They're from Germany actually... :-) |
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