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#1
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| Does anyone know the approved method for attaching cultured stone to hardie backer? I can't seem to find any info on the web, other than some say lath, others disagree; some say mortar (type S), others say thinset. As always, any help is appreciated. gene |
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#2
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| Thinset is the best way. A polymer modified one at that. It will cost about 5x what Type S will but is a small cost in the overall project and well worth it.
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#3
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| Thanks Tscarborough. Do you forsee problems with the thinset being applied at about a half inch or so with the back-buttering? As I recall it is usually applied a bit thinner than that for best performance. Thanks, gene |
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#4
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| Since we are on the topic of hardibaker & veneer. I am using a dry stack look with tumbled bricks. So far I have used S motart on cement blocks with some tabs inserted in the cement blocks. I am about to start steel studs and cement board. Can I still use S mortar or do I need to switch to a thin set??? This will also affect wall placement due to the difference in thickness of S mortar vs thinset. Any help as always is Greatly Appreciated. Thanks John
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#5
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| I saw a polymerized mortar for brick veneers at Lowes last week for $9 a bag. It was recommended for exterior walls and floors.
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#6
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| Depth of the mortar bed depends on the thing you're setting. Half an inch is standard for setting natural stone tile on a wall or floor with polymerized thinset, while you can get away with a quarter inch on ceramic or porcelain (one reason installing stone costs more--twice the mud) I have 200 feet of slate tile hanging on a wall at my office, and we put it up with a half inch trowel and back buttering. I've also put up slate ledgerstone with half an inch on the board and buttering the back with more. |
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