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Old 10-20-2013, 07:42 PM
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Default 10" saw owners: tilt/turn?

How did you guys manage your double-bevels? I'm having a hard time building a jig that will fit through the saw. Am I stuck just using wedge directly under the brick?
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Old 10-20-2013, 07:47 PM
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Default Re: 10" saw owners: tilt/turn?

That's what I did. I used an off cut as a wedge. I did use two bevel gauges to mark the angles on the bricks so that I could eyeball the cut.
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Old 10-21-2013, 06:28 AM
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Default Re: 10" saw owners: tilt/turn?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ogorir View Post
How did you guys manage your double-bevels? I'm having a hard time building a jig that will fit through the saw. Am I stuck just using wedge directly under the brick?
Take a look at this post. It might help. A 10 inch will require 2 cuts for some of the upper bricks. And you may want to make the supporting table thinner and shorter than I did.

http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f28/...ble-16780.html (Possible - New idea for brick cutting table)
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Old 10-21-2013, 02:53 PM
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Post Re: 10" saw owners: tilt/turn?

just use brick slivers as wedge and mark with angle tool. You will be very close and that is what mortar is for.

Texman
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Old 10-22-2013, 10:19 PM
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Default Re: 10" saw owners: tilt/turn?

I'm going to try one more thing with a MrChipster-style jig: turning it around so the brick points up towards the center of the blade. I think I can make that work if I make the plates thin(probably steel w/ grip tape on top)

If not, wedges it will be!
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Old 10-23-2013, 04:53 AM
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Default Re: 10" saw owners: tilt/turn?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ogorir View Post
I'm going to try one more thing with a MrChipster-style jig: turning it around so the brick points up towards the center of the blade. I think I can make that work if I make the plates thin(probably steel w/ grip tape on top)

If not, wedges it will be!
Post pictures of your jig even if it does not work as expected I would like to see what you come up with.
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Old 10-23-2013, 08:13 AM
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Default Re: 10" saw owners: tilt/turn?

I don't know that this will help you, but this is what I did.


http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f28/...ool-12478.html (My brick cutting tool.)

Chris
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Old 10-27-2013, 07:28 PM
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Default Re: 10" saw owners: tilt/turn?

That's a pretty cool jig, Chris!

I've been using the cutting head bevel and a brick cut to the wedge angle thus far(course 6). I'm not sure if I can do this all the way up, but I guess I'm going to find out. I just set the blade depth so it just barely grazes the rubber padding and the wedge brick is deep enough that I can cut through the target brick without running the blade into the fence on the table. Honestly, I'm not sure why I didn't think of this before, as I'm ripping a course in less than 15 minutes with nothing but crumbs left for waste. I'll try to draw up a tutorial this week, it should help any HF saw owners.
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Old 11-05-2013, 01:51 AM
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Default Re: 10" saw owners: tilt/turn?

Here's a post by DVM that I used.

http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/21/4...tml#post134262 (42" FB Pompeii Oven with 19" dome, and adjacent fireplace, in the O.C.)
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Old 11-05-2013, 05:49 AM
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Default Re: 10" saw owners: tilt/turn?

That's pretty much what I came up with, but instead of using the miter fence, I'm using a brick cut to the correct angle. This does 3 things that I see as a benefit:
(1) It moves the brick you're cutting further away from the fence on the table(which the blade hits if you have the head tilted)
(2) The face determining your angle is in the direction of the table's travel, which makes it less work to hold the brick
(3) It's faster to swap sides, as you just flip the brick over.

My work flow goes something like this:
1 place wedge brick(template) against fence on right side of blade (either direction, it changes every brick anyway)
2 place long edge of brick to be cut against wedge, roughly dividing the brick into 3*
3 cut the brick
4 set the right side of the cut aside
5 take the left side and flip it over towards you**, line the uncut edge up so the blade will barely take a full width off on the inside edge and cut the brick.***
6 take the rest of the brick and turn it 180. flip the wedge over.#
7 line the brick up to roughly cut it in half, remembering to take into account your bevel angle and the bevel you'll be taking off the last uncut side. cut the brick.
8 repeat steps 4 and 5 for the piece on the left of the blade.
9 repeat steps 2-8 for next whole brick. no need to flip the wedge back over, it works starting in either position.

*you have to visualize the effect the bevel has on the width of the brick as well, or you'll wind up with a bunch of really skinny bricks. I usually chose to visualize the top edge of the inside face, which is the shortest side on the brick.

** if you pretend the inside face is a hinge, flip it over the hinge, not the side you cut the angle on.

*** this maximizes your brick usage at the cost of increased mortar usage. I didn't start doing this until higher up where the joints are tighter anyway.

# looking at the top of the brick CW/CCW action, like screwing in a lightbulb. The cut edge will be on the right. the wedge needs to flip over the short sides so your cut angle is pointed the other direction.

to set my bevel, I try to have a pair of bricks left from the last course so I can compare where the head is currently set to where it needs to go, then bump the bevel up. ***Make sure you adjust the depth stop so the blade doesn't cut the table! I have to hold my saw head down because the adjusting screw doesn't have enough nut to hold the head down, so make sure you're setting the depth pulling down on the head.***

up until course 12, it's been a challenge not to bevel too MUCH, rather than the other way. I have way more V shaped joints than ^ shaped. Some of this, though, comes from spanning a brick over 2 joints (wider than bogey over skinnier than bogey), which I now try to avoid like the plague. It screws up your bevel AND turn.

Course 12, though... that starts to be a lot of bevel right quick.
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