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#1
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| Hey everybody This is my first post. I have attached a picture of my site for the new kitchen and pizza oven. The blue tape in the pic is the rough outline of the kitchen counters and a corner oven. The existing slab has about 3" of fall to deal with. My thinking is that I would pour concrete on top of the existing slab to level the areas for the oven base and counter footprints. I am estimating 50 ish bags of sacrete. So I am wondering if there is a better way. I also plan to cover the area since it is next to house and gets roof runoff into the area. Please give me comments, suggestions, advice and encouragement
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#2
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| Welcome aboard texman. You could just cut your brick/block to get it square and level and leave your pitch for drainage as you will still need it. A little more work on the cutting but less than pouring 50 bags of concrete. You would want to make sure all the water has a way off the patio. If you decide to pour an overcoat, look into a mix that is designed for overlaying on existing concrete and use a bonding agent to get it to stick better. Good luck and welcome from a fellow Texan. - Scott
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#3
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| Quote:
Welcome to the obsession - it's a great time. Les...
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#4
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| Nothing to add here but that's a great looking corner for your oven and kitchen.
__________________ George To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Weber 22-OTG / Ugly Drum Smoker / 34" WFO |
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#5
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| Tex, Welcome! Looks like a great project, and I love the curved counter. Have you considered covering the patio first? It appears that any runoff might collect and pool around the inside of your counter, and the shade benefits of a cover goes a long way, not to mention the advantage of lights for night work. Looking forward to seeing your project take shape. John |
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#6
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| thanks for the advice. Cutting bricks sounds much better than sacrete. I have looked at numerous projects here. Some dry stack the blocks and then fill the cells, some mortar the joints as they build. Are both acceptable? also, should i start the block laying at the lowest point and cut the blocks as i work up the slab? i.e. use a full block at the lowest point and then cut from there? probably doesnt really matter i think. How about the rebar reinforcment? should i just drill the existing slab and mortar the vertical rebar? every two feet? |
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#7
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| Quote:
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As you are perhaps learning, there is a lot of leeway on this project.
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#8
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| Thanks dmun got my electrical extended today. i had an old 220v dryer disconnect that is not being used. So that is my electrical for the new kitchen. I split it to two 110v circuits and am adding a ground rod just to be safe. Hopefully add a hot water hosebib for the sink tomorrow. Trying to get the utility stuff ready before starting the blocks. Is there any reason that the block should be against the existing brick of the house? I planned to run the electric in conduit and a gas line for grill in a 1" gap between block and existing brick. I am thinking the coutertops will either be flagstone or concrete which will hide the gap between block and brick wall. Any problems there? |
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#9
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| Quote:
Les...
__________________ Check out my pictures here: To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. "Hell, there are no rules here - we're trying to accomplish something" - Thomas A. Edison |
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#10
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| If you are building on an existing slab, you may want to consider a construction joint around the perimeter of the new works. The additional weight will cause some settlement. This settlement may be slight but will almost certainly cause cracking in the slab. The construction joint will control where the cracking occurs. You can form the joint by using a straight edge and a thin cutting wheel on an angle grinder. For concrete, cut about 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep. |
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