Build finally underway--Questions already! Getting Started Discuss Build finally underway--Questions already! in the Pizza Oven Design and Installation forums; I have been following this forum for almost 4 years and started work last year only to suspend for family ...

[bernerdog]

I have been following this forum for almost 4 years and started work last year only to suspend for family illness. Now started anew on 36" corner build on heavy steel frame 3" deep on top, which I filled with vermiculite/portland over steel plate base upon which i have laid out 3 FB boards followed by the floor and soldier course on top of floor( that I completed today). I had not planned on cutting lots of angles and bevels even tho' I have the HF saw (which is great). Using the "indispensable tool" to lay out and hold rings going up and set one brick on ring 2 before staring at things a LONG time and knocking off for the day to ask these questions before continuing:
1.Floor is not mortared nor is the landing--todays pictures show landing mortared--should I back up and mortar my landing?
2.Bought 3 boxes of mortar from FB along with boards but realized I`ll need much more, particularly using untapered 1/2 bricks. Heatstop is only $45 for 50 lbs. so am using it for first rings and saving FB stuff for arches and upper rings Any problem of incompatibility?
3.I have some old and roughed up firebrick that I practice on cutting wedges and shim shapes--can I insert these into mortar between rings to avoid overly thick mortar joints?
4.Seeing small upside down v's already--can I slip thin brick shims between bricks horizontally and then mortar them in joint(did one dry and it looked good and again would reduce width of mortar joint)? Thanks for any help!

[dmun]

1.Floor is not mortared nor is the landing--todays pictures show landing mortared--should I back up and mortar my landing?

I didn't mortar any of my floor - right out to the landing. I haven't had a problem so far.

2.Bought 3 boxes of mortar from FB along with boards but realized I`ll need much more, particularly using untapered 1/2 bricks. Heatstop is only $45 for 50 lbs. so am using it for first rings and saving FB stuff for arches and upper rings Any problem of incompatibility?

Many builders have used refractory mortar, and switched to others halfway up. I wouldn' t mix the two together, but using them on separate sections of the dome shouldn't be a problem. They are both closely matched to firebrick in thermal properties.

3.I have some old and roughed up firebrick that I practice on cutting wedges and shim shapes--can I insert these into mortar between rings to avoid overly thick mortar joints?

I don't see a problem, but more mortar may be cheaper than time and diamond to fabricate wedges.

4.Seeing small upside down v's already--can I slip thin brick shims between bricks horizontally and then mortar them in joint(did one dry and it looked good and again would reduce width of mortar joint)?

Don't bother. If you want to close the "V's" nip a corner off the facing bricks with your wet saw. (instead of fabricating the entire tapered trapezoid) Tiny mortared slips in the firing chamber could work loose and chip.

Good luck on your project. Don't hesitate to post pictures!

[Gromit]

Originally Posted by bernerdog

1.Floor is not mortared nor is the landing--todays pictures show landing mortared--should I back up and mortar my landing?

That was my oven. I sloped and mortared the floor under the vent in order to help keep out the rain. I never gave a thought till now as to whether mortaring it was proper.

[bernerdog]

Thank you for replying so quickly! I`ll push on today with buckets of mortar and freshly chipped corners. Why didn't I think of that? Special thanks to you Dmun-I read about your build early on and almost gave up the whole idea when I saw what kind of work you had done. This site and its contributors are wonderful though my wife wonders why I have spent hours on it over the last few years. I`ll take pictures and get some help figuring out how to post.

[Neil2]

I used the straight mortar only on the narrow 1/3 or so of each joint. Where the gap wedged out to 1/4 inch or more in width, I used a 1:2 mix (refractory mortar to mortar sand). This will extend your mortar supply significantly and will also reduce the shrinkage cracking in the wider joints.