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#1
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| I know this is not exactly an oven question, but there are many creative builders on this forum, one of which, may have an answer. I got some LONG pieces of metal roofing that I would like to cut into 6' pieces to make a lean-to type wood shed. (Okay, I guess this is connected to wood fired ovens after all) The metal is corrugated so I can't get my electric ( sardine can style) cutter up and down the, roughly 1.5 " sine wave bumps. I may have to use a (ugh) abrasive blade... If so, what blade works best and is there any shortcuts to the ridiculous noise and sparks and flying hot metal bits?
__________________ This may not be my last wood oven... |
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#2
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| I do this stuff everyday for a living, and have yet to find a way around the sparks and noise. If you have an angle grinder, or are willing to spend $20 for a cheap chinese one I would go that route. Regardless you want standard thin abrasive cutoff wheels. Let the blade do the cutting, don't force it, and you will save lots of money in blades. If you try and force it and go too fast yo will burn through a blade in no time. |
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#3
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| I'll second the grinder approach with the thin cutoff wheels (4") DeWALT DW4624 6" X 1/4" X 7/8" General Purpose Metal Grinding Wheel (10 Pack) at PlumberSurplus.com When you use it you want to take a 4 foot level and draw a pencil line along the underside of the panel. Chalk lines (especially red) are a pain to get off. When cutting do so in a manner that draws the grinder away from you with the panel on its back belly up. Out in the grass is a good spot. Some take the shield off, BUT BE CAREFUL if you do this. The drawing away and slight cutting will also save the blade. This is easy once you get the hang of it. Wear Hearing and Eye protection (Face shield is also good) as it is wicked loud and thows out dust. But I have put up miles of metal and you can look at my project and see the metal on my roof and all of the steel joists were cut using this method. Be Safe!!!
__________________ Columbiana, Alabama WFO Build. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Last edited by MetalHead; 09-20-2009 at 03:56 PM. Reason: canent speel |
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#4
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| I've worked with galvalume quite a bit and have always cut it with a regular circular saw with an abrasive blade. sparks and noise, check. |
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#5
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| I've done a lot of commercial metal work. It's OK to rough cut your metal a little long but then it should be sheared or snipped to final length. If you don't, the sawed edge will rust almost immediately. The rust slowly travels from the edge inward, or fast, if you're near salt water. All job specs state no prefinished metal shall be torched or cut abrasively. I usually cut about 1/2" long and then snip to length. Outfits that use these panels everyday have a $400.00 guillotine shear. Mark |
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#6
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| Hey Lars, I have had really good results with a portable jig-saw. If you have one maybe this is an option. Get a good blade, my favorite for cutting thin metal is a carbide tipped metal cutting blade made by Bosch. This is not the carbide grit blade, but one that actually has a strip of carbide at the leading edge with teeth ground in to it. Cuts easily and cleanly, you can use a regular thin-metal cutting blade too (this carbide blade is kind of expensive ~$15 for one,) the carbide one has outlasted many packages of the standard blades. I used this for cutting all of the corrugated galvalume for the "temporary" enclosure for my oven. I haven't noticed any rusting at the edges yet, but I did make a point to position all of the cut edges at the top where they wouldn't sit in any standing water. ![]() good luck, Doug |
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#7
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| Thank-you all for tips. I think I will try a good metal blade in my milwaukee saws-all. And, when that fails, the old circular saw, goggles, earplugs, welding jacket, etc....Oh man... L.
__________________ This may not be my last wood oven... |
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