Starting a 36" Pompeii oven...help plz

[ThinCrust99]

Well I learned my first lesson...do not start drinking beer until after you measure.....my form is just a little bit too small. Any thoughts on how to fix this? I was thinking about adding a 4" pad to the front and connecting it with rebar...........this was my first concrete pour so I'm open to suggestions.

Also how do I span the wood storage opening on a corner install. Can I still use angle??? If so how???

You should be able to use me as the "Anyone can build a brick oven" poster child by the time i am done....just sticky my thread...lol.

Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

Everyone in my circle is "Fired UP" about the new oven so hopefully we will have some new members soon.

Chris (ThinCrust) Clay

[ThinCrust99]

Is there any way to build it without the 8" block??? See picture

[FIREANDFLAMES]

What does "a little bit" mean?

[fxpose]

Originally Posted by ThinCrust99

Is there any way to build it without the 8" block??? See picture

Can't you cut the blocks to fit? Is that what you're trying to achieve?

George

[Neil2]

Try this.

Take the last 1/2 block away from the front so it doesn't over lap the ground slab.

When you get to the structural suspended slab, cantilever it out the front as needed. With proper reinforcing, a 4 inch slab will span your opening with no additional support and will easily cantilever out 8 to 10 inches or so.

The finished product will look like you designed it this way from the start.

[tfasz]

Also, you might want to checkout the pics from my stand which is a very similar size/shape. I had a contractor do that part and they used much thinner vertical blocks and just built a form with some re-bar in it to span the opening. I'm guessing the thinner blocks would make it easier to fit to your slab.

I have seen a few folks comment on how most stands you see on this site tend towards being over engineered. Initially I was a bit concerned that my stand might not hold the weight of the oven but it has been really firm - no cracking or moving so far and I am pretty much done with the heavy stuff.

[Eric Pfeifer]

Angle steel should work fine to span across the opening for the wood box, but I'd go at least 2 x 2 inch (x 0.125 inch) for such a span (even that dimension angle will flex noticably over two or so feet). C-channel is another thought. Once your reinforced cantilevered platform is set, you could remove the steel angle, which over time outdoors will rust anyway.

[Neil2]

Think of replacing the "angle iron" with additional rebar in the slab across the lintel. Your suspended slab should be about 2% rebar, just add a couple of extra 1/2 inch bars across the lintel. Make sure that at least 12 inches of the ends of these two bars extend back into the sides (or down into the walls) to anchor them.

[ThinCrust99]

Ok, lots of good stuff. I am going to remove the 8" block and will build the cantapronounceit -aka "shelf". Reinforce it with rebar that goes at least 12" (probably more) back into the slab. (extra 2x4's under the shelf to support it before the pour I assume?).

I will dry stack and pour this week hopefully and post more pics

Thanks

Chris

[WoodchuckDad]

I wouldn't remove the 8 inch block. But instead I would get an angle grinder, a $10 diamond grinding wheel, and trim the edges off the 16 inch blocks behind the 8 inch block. You would have to do it to each course, but the grinding wheel is pretty easy to use and goes quickly. The span will be no problem with angle Iron.