Flashing for rounded corners on slab

[Marcel]

I'd like to steal "Paulages" rounded corner idea for the slab at the very bottom. Paul if you read this are you O.K. with that?

Since I also want to place sheet metal flashing on the top of the concrete block wall, I thought I could use the same type of metal as for the rounded corners. My bottom slab form is made of 10' x 10' (two" by SIX") so standard wooden bender board would be too narrow.

What kind of metal ( galvanized? aluminum? painted sheet?) would anyone recommend, ____ and what width? ____ How do I attach the metal so that the concrete will not stick to it? ____

My purpose in capping the concrete blocks with sheet metal is to allow the next slab up; (Hearth Base) to slip if necessary when expanding &/or to allow an easier disassembly. The rounded corners are just because I think Paul's slab looks neat and is less likely to produce stubbed toes.

Paul, I am near Junction City - Cheshire; this offered as you were looking for oven builder compatriots living in the North West.

My image file was too large to insert a picture of the pad. I'll take another shot and submit it next time. The pour will occur in about 2 weeks.

[svtlightning]

I used masonite to form the rounded portion of my concrete base. I bought a 4 x 8 sheet and just ripped it to the depth I wanted. Screwed it insided of the 2x forms and staked it for support. Worked great. You could always double up on the masonite if you are worried about a blow out. I also used the masonite to form my hearth, which is round. Pictures are in the Brick oven photos section.

I used standard aluminum roofing flashing. I cut it in about 1' sections to make the radius of my round base. I duct taped the sections together to hold it in place during the hearth pour. So far so good.

Hope this helps
Mike

[paulages]

yeah, really anything that would curve would work. i've done a bit of sheet metal work--roofing etc., so i just mcguyvered it on the spot with what i had laying around. i think i used painted steel (used for rolling out continous gutters) for the slab, and aluminum flashing (left over from flashing the windows on the building behind my oven in the pictures) for the hearth. masonite should indeed work great, though the advantage to using sheet metal is that it won't blow out, and will form to the curve naturally with the pressure of the concrete. i just screwed it into the inside of the 2-by forms and let the concrete even it out. metal pops off of concrete really easy.

mike, i drive south every once in a while to visit friends in tiller, and in the little applegate. maybe we could hook up sometime to see each other's projects?

[Unofornaio]

You can start at the bottom of the 2x6 attach your bender board in the desired curve and then place the next one on top of that. So you will have a arpox 2" above the forms you can leave this as is or cut it with a hand saw. Remember in order to make that curve cover the corner of the block stand you will need to start back toward the middle of the wall or so. Soak the bender board with water first if you have a pool put it in the pool for a bit to get it nice and wet. Since the boards are going to be on the OUTSIDE of the forms you should use cleats (pieces of 2x4) cut to go over the boards at the very start of the curve screwed into the 2x6.
Also if your blocks are filled don't waste money on the metal for the block tops just put a thin layer of sand this will do the same thing.

[Archena]

On a side note: Marcel, you can resize the image yourself so it fits. There are a number of free resizing programs out there. I use Image Resizer which is a Microsoft power toy. If you follow the link scroll down until you see it (it's a little easier to see it in the blue column on the right). It's really simple to use (has to be if I'm using it) and works great.