Forno Bravo Forum: The Wood-Fired Oven Community - Tools, Tips and Techniques http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/ Share your favorite tools, time saving tips, and what you learned while building your oven. en Sat, 21 Nov 2009 19:19:00 GMT vBulletin 60 http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/images/misc/rss.jpg Forno Bravo Forum: The Wood-Fired Oven Community - Tools, Tips and Techniques http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/ Stud framing and external walls http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f28/stud-framing-external-walls-8966.html Sat, 21 Nov 2009 13:52:39 GMT If I want to build a short wall around my oven, what is the right material for this? It has to be weather proof, at least to some degree. I will facade it with something (ledgestone would be nice), but it is nevertheless fairly exposed. How does one begin something like this? I don't even know what material to make the wall out of. Framing with studs (metal I guess since that's what everyone else on FB uses), seems fairly rational, but the wall itself is less clear to me.

Thanks. ]]> Tools, Tips and Techniques kebwi http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f28/stud-framing-external-walls-8966.html New builder, some new tips, and a question http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f28/new-builder-some-new-tips-question-8896.html Thu, 19 Nov 2009 03:24:36 GMT My wife's been bugging me for years to build her a beehive dome, and got me the FB plans, so I launched into it. So far it's doing pretty well, I'm up to about the fifth course and it's looking good. Using Heat Stop 50 which seems to work really well (I wanted to add sand, but the bag said not to). No forms so far, but I did build a 1/4 round "jig" that hooks onto a piece of rebar that fits into a hole in the central brick that will eventually take a thermocouple. I found that for splitting lots of bricks in half for the dome a cheap hand pumped log splitter works great, not a super straight surface but neat enough for something that won't show and will be mortared over and then immersed in perlite (enclosed dome). I found mine in a junk pile and had to get a new jack for it, but you can get them at Harbor Freight or such for about $100. When you're done building the oven, you can use it to split your wood! Figured out another trick: if you want to hold a small piece of brick to do some fine cutting with a circular saw with a masonry blade, fill something like a cat litter pan with about four inches of wet sand and bed the piece of brick down into it and wail away.
Question: should I do the initial curing before I enclose the dome in the insulation? I've been leaving the dome covered at night (it's down in the upper 30s here at night) with a heater running inside, and there is a LOT of moisture coming out of this thing. Seems I'd like that to escape into the atmosphere and not into the insulation. Speaking of which, there is a place here in the Lehigh Valley (Bethlehem/Allentown area) called Pennsylvania Perlite that has all different grades, big bags, cheap, no silicone. 800 473 7548.
Mike Space
BTW, the gentleman with the camera tripod gave me a good laugh mentioning Whitworth fittings, since I've got a bunch of British cars. Figures we'd be the type building ancient technology like brick ovens.:rolleyes:
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version Name: oven, mini, FLU, clouds, property 220.jpg Views: N/A Size: 1.07 MB ID: 15871   Click image for larger version Name: PB182006.jpg Views: N/A Size: 1.02 MB ID: 15872   Click image for larger version Name: PB162000.jpg Views: N/A Size: 1.25 MB ID: 15873   Click image for larger version Name: PB182007.jpg Views: N/A Size: 932.0 KB ID: 15874  
]]> Tools, Tips and Techniques spazio http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f28/new-builder-some-new-tips-question-8896.html Castable Floor???? http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f28/castable-floor-8887.html Wed, 18 Nov 2009 18:48:28 GMT Hey Everyone, I just bought a used WFO trailer and need to replace the cooking floor. Currently there are 5-6 tiles that are only a 1inch thick. I was wondering if anyone has made a casatable floor for their oven. I would like to try this method so i can get the right thickness that i have room... Hey Everyone, I just bought a used WFO trailer and need to replace the cooking floor. Currently there are 5-6 tiles that are only a 1inch thick. I was wondering if anyone has made a casatable floor for their oven. I would like to try this method so i can get the right thickness that i have room for.

Any thoughts, suggestions or comments?


thanks ]]> Tools, Tips and Techniques ddchef http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f28/castable-floor-8887.html Mineral Wool Insulation http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f28/mineral-wool-insulation-8826.html Sun, 15 Nov 2009 06:05:44 GMT Does anyone have any information on mineral wool and how it compares to the FB ceramic blanket and perlite. I am inclined to go with straight perlite/cement on the dome but I do have some mineral wool that I bought for a masonry heater project that is still laying around. My main area of concern is... Does anyone have any information on mineral wool and how it compares to the FB ceramic blanket and perlite. I am inclined to go with straight perlite/cement on the dome but I do have some mineral wool that I bought for a masonry heater project that is still laying around. My main area of concern is a section of the dome that is slightly less than 3" away from an adobe wall. I carved out the adobe as far as I dared. Both the adobe wall and the oven are indoors.

Marty
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version Name: Photo_111409_001.jpg Views: N/A Size: 368.0 KB ID: 15785   Click image for larger version Name: Photo_111409_002.jpg Views: N/A Size: 366.2 KB ID: 15786  
]]> Tools, Tips and Techniques martywatts http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f28/mineral-wool-insulation-8826.html <![CDATA[Oh no, my arch didn't stick to the floor!]]> http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f28/oh-no-my-arch-didnt-stick-8810.html Sat, 14 Nov 2009 02:48:41 GMT The bricks comprising my arch seem to have stuck to one another. I have doubts about the quality of the bonds because some of them broke while I was setting higher bricks of the arch and then set with obvious cracks running the length of the gap, but nevertheless, the bricks of the arch do seem to... The bricks comprising my arch seem to have stuck to one another. I have doubts about the quality of the bonds because some of them broke while I was setting higher bricks of the arch and then set with obvious cracks running the length of the gap, but nevertheless, the bricks of the arch do seem to be stuck together a least to some degree.

...however, on both sides, the first brick is completely unbonded from the row of bricks that run out the entryway framing the floor. :( Both mortar gaps are obviously completely broken. A slight push will tilt the arch up on its feet, either inward or outward along the main axis.

What can I do about this? On one hand, the load-force at the floor is going almost straight down into the floor so the arch-floor bond isn't very important, but on the other hand, I am concerned that the dome courses will push the arch outward. I had intended to build more of the total archway before merging the dome to the arch anyway, so the more external components of the arch (under the vent primarily) would provide a brace against outward pushing, but nevertheless, I am concerned about this problem.

Should I gingerly tip the arch over, clean of the area of old mortar, then try to reattach it? How would I clean off mortar that is several days old? I'm afraid that something as violent as an angle grinder would break nearby joints while I am working.

A little dismayed, awaiting advice.

Thanks. ]]> Tools, Tips and Techniques kebwi http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f28/oh-no-my-arch-didnt-stick-8810.html hearth form and vegetable oil? http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f28/hearth-form-vegetable-oil-8809.html Sat, 14 Nov 2009 01:04:14 GMT Should I coat the 2x6 I am using for the hearth form in vegetable oil to help prevent any bond between the wood and concrete? Is this step necessary? Should I coat the 2x6 I am using for the hearth form in vegetable oil to help prevent any bond between the wood and concrete? Is this step necessary? ]]> Tools, Tips and Techniques dsgreco http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f28/hearth-form-vegetable-oil-8809.html Herringbone vs. running bond (angled) floor layout http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f28/herringbone-vs-running-bond-angled-floor-8803.html Fri, 13 Nov 2009 05:27:31 GMT In my excitement to get started cutting bricks I realized I accidentally went with a running bond pattern rather than my planned herringbone layout. In hindsight I actually think that I might keep the running bond as I kind of like the simplicity and the look. Any reasons that a herringbone... In my excitement to get started cutting bricks I realized I accidentally went with a running bond pattern rather than my planned herringbone layout. In hindsight I actually think that I might keep the running bond as I kind of like the simplicity and the look.

Any reasons that a herringbone layout would be superior? Anyone tried ovens with both and like one more than another? Seems like either would have the same problem with seams catching the peel - maybe a tad bit worse on the running bond?

Either way I'm planning on having a soldier course across the front to keep from having any small pieces fall off the front of the landing.

Have just been dry fitting things together at this point so easy to change course if there is a good reason.

Thanks for any input.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version Name: IMG_7215.JPG Views: N/A Size: 69.7 KB ID: 15752   Click image for larger version Name: IMG_7212.JPG Views: N/A Size: 69.4 KB ID: 15753  
]]> Tools, Tips and Techniques tfasz http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f28/herringbone-vs-running-bond-angled-floor-8803.html Mortar: 3:1:1:1 vs. 3:2:1:1 http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f28/mortar-3-1-1-1-vs-8799.html Thu, 12 Nov 2009 21:40:41 GMT Straight forward question: Say you double the fireclay. What effect should that have?

That's it. I'll keep it simple. I would love to ask ten variations of this question (actually, there are exactly eight variations if you think about it :) ), but doing so inevitably convolutes the discussion.

...so, more fireclay, all other things equal. The fireclay lends thermal something-or-other to the mortar, but I readily admit to some fogginess on the specifics.

Thanks.

[sand : fireclay : portland : lime, in that order] ]]> Tools, Tips and Techniques kebwi http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f28/mortar-3-1-1-1-vs-8799.html Adding a blast of steam for baking http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f28/adding-blast-steam-baking-8795.html Thu, 12 Nov 2009 16:54:44 GMT I am reading the Bread makers assistant, and he mentions that after inserting the bread he pushes a button and the oven adds a 20 second burst of steam. So far I was thinking about doing that with a spray bottle as I think most people are. But has anyone seen a design where you build a pipe for... I am reading the Bread makers assistant, and he mentions that after inserting the bread he pushes a button and the oven adds a 20 second burst of steam.
So far I was thinking about doing that with a spray bottle as I think most people are. But has anyone seen a design where you build a pipe for that into the oven. The temperature of the oven could heat up water in the pipe and when you are ready to release it you open a valve ? Would that interfere with consistent temperature around the dome or any issues like that. Seems like a 20 second burst is a lot more then my spray bottle will deliver.
Just a thought.

Christian ]]> Tools, Tips and Techniques newimaging http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f28/adding-blast-steam-baking-8795.html How to make a sand dome surface hard/crusty? http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f28/how-make-sand-dome-surface-hard-8760.html Wed, 11 Nov 2009 01:55:06 GMT Hi, I am building my concrete oven on a trailer and I need a solution to make the sand dome surface hard/ crusty enough so that I can pour the concrete on it. Any ideas of product I could put on the dome to make it hard enough? Thanks for your help. Seb Hi,

I am building my concrete oven on a trailer and I need a solution to make the sand dome surface hard/ crusty enough so that I can pour the concrete on it.

Any ideas of product I could put on the dome to make it hard enough?
Thanks for your help.

Seb ]]> Tools, Tips and Techniques http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f28/how-make-sand-dome-surface-hard-8760.html Make My Own Rake http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f28/make-my-own-rake-8755.html Tue, 10 Nov 2009 04:27:45 GMT I'd like to make a rake that the blade can be rotated on so that I can push or pull from front to back or push to the side with. Has anyone done one of these? I'd like to get some suggestions for materials. I figure a firm piece of metal for the blade with a 90° angle bent into it. One side of the angle as the blade and the other mounted with maybe a thumb screw to a handle. Will an aluminum bar stay cool enough to handle? Any suggestions on where to find said bar inexpensively will be appreciated... may very well be I could find such animal at any Home Center....??? ]]> Tools, Tips and Techniques WaWaZat http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f28/make-my-own-rake-8755.html Parge recipe http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f28/parge-recipe-8751.html Mon, 09 Nov 2009 18:49:14 GMT I'm sorry to be a pest about matters which have already been addressed (on other threads), but I'm find extreme variation in prescriptions for parging mixtures. My current goal, as applies to a discussion of parging, is to fill voids, smooth, and strengthen (against crumbling and decay) some rather dry concrete pours along the edges of my foundation and on the vertical sides of my hearth.

I have found references online to 1:1 sand/portland ratios, but have also been advised to use a 5:1 ratio, which is so utterly divergent from 1:1 that I feel paralyzed on the matter until I get some clarification.

I am also somewhat unclear whether to add any lime to a parging mixture. Why would one add it? Why would one omit it?

On a related -- but not identical -- topic, the same question (about lime) seems to apply to brick mortar. Some recipes include it, some recipes dramatically decrease it, some remove it entirely. I find this confusing. It seems to me that either the chemistry of the substance in question (concrete, mortar, parging mix, etc.) should either need it or not; I don't understand how it can be so ambiguous. Does anyone here understand this precisely enough to clarify the matter? I would truly appreciate it.

Thanks. ]]> Tools, Tips and Techniques kebwi http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f28/parge-recipe-8751.html Perlite vs. Vericulite final Insulation layer http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f28/perlite-vs-vericulite-final-insulation-layer-8750.html Mon, 09 Nov 2009 15:53:16 GMT I am waiting the 3 weeks for my 6" Cladding to dry and am wondering if I should use Vermiculite loosely, mixed 6:1 with portland cement, or use Perlite.
I build a brick wall up from the base, so now I have a 5" gap between the cladding and the final wall, so I can pour anything in there. Is one better than the other. They both cost exactly the same, and the Vermiculite says 100% Asbestus free certified on it.

Thanks for any suggestions.

Christian
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version Name: oven brick 2.jpg Views: N/A Size: 45.5 KB ID: 15614   Click image for larger version Name: oven cladding 2.jpg Views: N/A Size: 34.3 KB ID: 15615  
]]> Tools, Tips and Techniques newimaging http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f28/perlite-vs-vericulite-final-insulation-layer-8750.html Final dome brick courses. http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f28/final-dome-brick-courses-8749.html Mon, 09 Nov 2009 14:45:56 GMT Hi all,

I've nearly finished the dome. I'll be posting pics a bit later down the line but I've run into a problem.

I've been building a free standing dome with no formers. The firebricks I'm using are quite small. The final courses of bricks aren't holding in place and are sliding off the mortar.

Is there a simple way to keep them from sliding off without the need of a big inflatable ball or formers? I've tried varying the wetness of the mortar but to no avail.

It was all going so well up to now.

Patrick ]]> Tools, Tips and Techniques I burnt my fingers http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f28/final-dome-brick-courses-8749.html Obligatory first-time-mortar-concerns post http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f28/obligatory-first-time-mortar-concerns-post-8739.html Mon, 09 Nov 2009 02:43:46 GMT I mortared my first bricks last night (pairs together, for later transport to the hearth) and then the first courses today. I used Lars' 6:4:2:1 recipe with about 4 to 4.5 parts water.

I have four questions: behavior over time, recipe, sand, watered consistency.

First, after twelve hours, and again this evening (about twenty-four hours) -- admittedly not very long yet -- the mortar seems very tacky and small globs break off easily (not chipping like old concrete, but like dried glue. Despite extremely ginger care when transporting brick-pairs to the hearth, admittedly a few were abused and easily fell apart...which I then bar-clamped together and left to sit, although I'm not sure if a break after twelve hours can simply be pushed back together or if it is too late at that point.

Question one: is this behavior from the mortar acceptable? I thought it should act like concrete and be impressively hard the next day. Admittedly, numerous posts on FB confirm that this might be okay, so I'm trying not to worry about it, but it seems a little odd to me that is stays soft for so long.

Question two: There seem to be almost as many recipes as oven-builders. I am NOT asking which recipe people blindly recommend, FB already has no shortage of such posts. :) What I would greatly appreciate, however, is an understanding of what effect variations of the recipes should have. For example, Lars' increased the fireclay and decreased the lime relative the James'. Many other recipes do something similar. What does each change do? What does increasing the fireclay do? What does decreasing the lime do? Many recipes increase the sand. Some completely dismiss lime entirely. How should these changes affect mortar? I could experiment, except that I wholly admit I don't even know what to look for, which makes "playing around" rather unproductive. Experimenting is only useful if you know what you're shooting or.

Question three: I bought the white silicate sand available at Home Depot (100 Lb. #30 Silica Sand - 362201999 at The Home Depot), image attached (the image shows "settled" sand, the smallest grains after shaking it level. There are slightly larger grains below the surface I'm afraid.). My mortar has a gritty consistency, as one would expect from such sand. I find this at odds with the numerous "peanut-butter" recommendations, although I admit that that is w.r.t. water, not sand. Is everyone's mortar gritty?

Question four: Water. I know the peanut-butter mantra, but I'm not sure I "get" it. The mortar is very unlike peanut-butter due to the sand, so any advice on this topic would be appreciated. What I used today was 6:4:2:1:4-1/2 (sand, fireclay, portland, lime, water). I felt that 4 parts water was too dry and 5 parts was pushing runny...but I just don't know what to shoot for...sigh.

If you read this far, thank you. :)

Cheers!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version Name: sand.jpg Views: N/A Size: 253.8 KB ID: 15598  
]]> Tools, Tips and Techniques kebwi http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f28/obligatory-first-time-mortar-concerns-post-8739.html