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  #41  
Old 10-30-2007, 06:11 AM
Acoma's Avatar
Il Pizzaiolo
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 1,019
Default Re: Framing Nearly Complete

Something to add here. A friend built his kitchen island out of metal studs and said lots of finger cuts occur, can't be avoided. If this happens, superglue the cut, and the finger is good as new. Glue eventually comes off. Also, if you go on hikes and a blister happens to short in the trail, pop the blister, superglue it, and back to the trail. Wierd info huh?
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  #42  
Old 10-30-2007, 02:13 PM
Peasant
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Colorado
Posts: 44
Default Re: Framing Nearly Complete

I'll try the superglue, I usually use the duct tape.
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  #43  
Old 10-30-2007, 02:56 PM
Apprentice
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Roseville, CA
Posts: 113
Default Re: Framing Nearly Complete

If there is one thing I will not miss is working with the metal studs and all the nicks and cuts!!
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  #44  
Old 10-31-2007, 10:16 PM
Apprentice
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Roseville, CA
Posts: 113
Default Re: Framing Nearly Complete

Quote:
Originally Posted by james View Post
They are U, which looks a lot better than the lightweight S.

Can you calculate square feet and let me know. I will contact the company, get the material cost, plus size and weight, so we can get a landed cost. Let's see where this goes. If we can't do it, I will make sure we figure out who would be best.

James

James ,

Sorry to be a nuisance, but any luck on the roof tiles. I am getting ready to lay down the plywood this weekend and really looking forward if possible in obtaining the clay tiles and finishing that part of the project. Please let me know any information so I can plan accordingly. If I have to wait no problem as I will lay down the felt and that should keep everything water tight. Thanks.
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  #45  
Old 10-31-2007, 10:23 PM
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Brick Oven Merchant
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Pebble Beach, CA
Posts: 3,889
Default Re: Framing Nearly Complete

Sorry this is taking a while, but it is something new to us. I have asked the questions and we are working out the details. We'll get there,
James
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  #46  
Old 11-08-2007, 06:08 PM
Peasant
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Colorado
Posts: 44
Default Re: Enclosure update

I finally finished the Hardiboard. Followed up with thin-setting the seams and screw heads. The wiring is roughed in for 2 lights in the front and one on each side. I add 3 more bags (12 cf) of perlite over the dome and pit stack.

The top of the cap is 9 foot off the ground.

Next is stucco. I'll start adding the lathe this weekend and hopefully have the scratch coat done too.

First fire is set for the 13th. 30 days after the keystone brick was laid. Morter should be fully dried.
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  #47  
Old 11-09-2007, 12:42 AM
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Location: Reno, NV
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Default Re: Framing Nearly Complete

KC, I believe you mentioned earlier in the thread that the cinder block on its side was for wiring for lighting? If that was so, why not along bottom area of the wall? Wouldn't this simplify things for lighting? That, or what is the plan?
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  #48  
Old 11-09-2007, 12:47 AM
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Location: Louisville, KY
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Default Re: Framing Nearly Complete

KC,

Your enclosure looks really nice! I really like the lighting ideas. Can't wait to see more.
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42" Pompeii


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  #49  
Old 11-09-2007, 04:22 AM
Peasant
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Colorado
Posts: 44
Default Re: Framing Nearly Complete

I laid that block on its side for wiring mostly because I've never done any masonry work before and didn't know what I was doing. I should of laid the conduit before the foundation concrete pour. That way all I would have to do was to snake the wire straight into the storage area. That block and the one on the other side will be covered by counters. Grill on one side and a Carolina Pit on the other side. I used the other side's opening for the smoker's chimney that is already incorporated into the oven's.
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  #50  
Old 11-10-2007, 10:00 PM
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Location: Reno, NV
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Default Re: Framing Nearly Complete

KC, I take it you have wiring leading from where the lights are to be, down to within the base (wood area)? If so, why not take a conduit to the back side bottom of the wall, drill a hole into a non conspicuous area, and have the wire meet that way? It is looking very nice.
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