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-   -   Chimney problem (http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f9/chimney-problem-16255.html)

hsumer 07-01-2011 07:25 AM

Chimney problem
 
Hi,

I am installing Pompeii Oven but i have a big problem.My outdoor kitchen is under my balcony & Teras.On plan,Chimney is going strait up.Is it possible to curve the chimney.

dmun 07-01-2011 09:47 AM

Re: Chimney problem
 
Code allows two thirty degree bends in your chimney. Your chimney has to terminate at least two feet above any structure within ten feet. Obviously if your chimney is going near your balcony, you are going to want the chimney at least high enough to avoid filling your house with smoke.

hsumer 07-01-2011 09:33 PM

Re: Chimney problem
 
I will have fireplace on balcony and pizza oven chimney will go through there 20 ft high from ground level.Only 30 degree is not enough to move chimney clear area.Is it possible to move chimney rear area on oven.

brickie in oz 07-01-2011 09:53 PM

Re: Chimney problem
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by hsumer (Post 116239)
Is it possible to move chimney rear area on oven.

You wont be able to get the oven hot enough as all the heat will just rush from the entry of the oven and out the flue at the rear. :(

david s 07-02-2011 12:20 AM

Re: Chimney problem
 
I've been chewing over a rear entry flue for a while as there is a huge advantage in removing the flue from the front so you don't have an entry to work past. Many downdraft kilns are arranged with their fuel/air intake on one side and their flues on the opposite side. The fuel enters rises and combusts and is then pulled down to exit the relatively small flue throat at floor level. The problem with a WFO is that at start up there is a fairly uncontrollable amount of fuel (wood) and i'm sure there would be big smoke problems until you reached about 200C and a good path would be developed. Such a configuration would achieve very high temps. and economical with fuel usage because it would effectively be a downdraft kiln, which are the most efficient. Perhaps if it were fired with gas for start up, then switch to wood, it would run really well. With more than 2000 years of oven evolution I'm sure someone has already tried this and I've not seen evidence of any, but I'd love to try it, although it could be a time wasting exercise.

david s 07-02-2011 01:00 AM

Re: Chimney problem
 
Hsumer,
Apologies, my ideas probably don't help you. Don't mess around with your oven design, you are probably better off trying to relocate it into a more suitable position and have the flue more vertical. CReating bends tightervthan 30 degrees is likely to compromise the effectiveness of the flue draw particularly at low temps and start up.

brickie in oz 07-02-2011 01:38 AM

Re: Chimney problem
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by david s (Post 116244)
With more than 200 years of oven evolution I'm sure some one has already tried this and I've not seen evidence of any, but I'd love to try it, although it could be a time wasting exercise.

So try it. :)
And report back

david s 07-02-2011 04:35 AM

Re: Chimney problem
 
Naah, just encourage someone else to have ago and report back.

tony715 07-02-2011 05:52 AM

Re: Chimney problem
 
more bends less draw. don't go that way. i've been in masonry my entire life and i can tell you you won't get the draw or the heat be a re-design of the location of the flu.

if i understand your problem correctly, and your worries of the terrace. why not cut through the terrace and run straight through?? thats what we do on house chimneys.

typically, we run two wythes of brick around the liner then the veneer. you could add an additional wythe of brick if concerns of heat. i am assuming you would be using all brick design.

don't know if that helps but its just another thought to chew on.

have a good day.

Tony
"owner of the two story WFO"

dmun 07-02-2011 08:22 AM

Re: Chimney problem
 
Now the Italians use sharp bends in the flues of their commercial ovens, so that the "pipe" can go from the center of the dome for aesthetic reasons. These are commercial ovens, so they seldom if ever cool down, so there is always some starter draft when you build a fire.

As far as venting the oven in the back, NO. Don't do it. It's been tried and it's a big failure. The circular path of the combustion gasses is critical to the success of the wood fired oven. Mess with this, and you miss the entire concept.

The thirty degree flue bends are in code because that's the maximum bend you can get a flue cleaning brush through. If your oven is that close to your house, you are no doubt pulling a permit, so that is non-negotiable.


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