#11  
Old 07-03-2011, 06:58 AM
horrocks007's Avatar
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Roosevelt, NJ
Posts: 96
Default Re: Chimney problem

Contact the manufacturer of your metal chimney pipe. They will end all speculation as they are the experts.

I used Metalfab for my wood stove, same quality as Simpson-Dura vent for much less cash. They explained to me that you are allowed 2 30 degree bends, but that also means you are allowed 2 30 degree bends that restore it to straight. This is what I have on my stove. I have a 15 foot+ run too. Draws fantastically and there is no smoke in the house.

Extra advice too-
If you are going to hide the chimney behind a veneer stone enclosure, you may want to look into buying galvanized class a venting pipe instead of stainless. it still has a stainless inner wall and 2" insulation, just a galvanized exterior. You only need stainless for areas that are exposed to the elements. - This advice will save you hundreds of $$$ a stove installation.
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  #12  
Old 07-03-2011, 04:32 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Baton Rouge
Posts: 3
Default Re: Chimney problem

Thank you for every body,
I am building shaft for chimney with AAC also i will build whole system with AAC (autoclave aerated concrete).I built my fireplace's chimney with AAC 3 years ago (in home) and decided build outside fireplace on my terrace and wood stove oven to outside kitchen on downstairs.I saw some people want to know AAC here too.I hope i will give them more information because my family is working with AAC since 1953 (from Europe).After I start build this wood oven project i found out chimney 5 feet away from edge.Downstair's clear Height is 8 feet (room is 11 feet but 3 feet beam height).Oven's chimney start point is around 5 feet so i have 3 feet height for 5 feet move to chimney.I am thinking chimney fan for more slope.What do you think?

Last edited by hsumer; 07-03-2011 at 04:47 PM.
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