Can you frame the enclosure with wood?
If I cover my oven with the insulating blanket and have 7-11" clearance from the oven to the walls which will be filled withh vermiculite or perlite, Can I frame the walls with wood studs? I will attach durarock to that.
Has anyone done it?
Code requires two inches free air space between chimney (or fireplace) and combustibles. The exception to this is for wood mantle trim, which can directly adjoin the masonry if the masonry at that point has twelve inches or more thickness from the firebox.
I would say, that if you are two inches away from your 4 inches of insulation, you should be fine with wood studding. If in doubt, use metal studding, which is cheaper anyway.
I must be looking at the wrong metal studs..
I can get a 2X4 for $1.99 where a metal stud is $7-8. The size of the metal studs look to be 3-4" wide does that sound right?
My choice is not based on on cost but rather ease of use.
Right now I have my form for my hearth framed with 2X6. I could just leave those where they are and attach my concrete backer board to that along with a bottom stud and the studs for the walls.
I doubt I would have space between my vermiculite and the studs because I was just going to build the enclosure and pour it in from the top to fill the space...
There are various sizes of metal stud, and you can use the thinner ones for the upper enclosure. I would recommend that you go with the metal studs at least for the walls -- you could consider using wood for the roof joists. There is the possibility the enclosure walls could get warm and you really want your enclosure to last and look great for years to come.
Wood is easier to work with, but metal may let you worry less.
This isn't a direct reply to the wood/metal question, but it is an approach that works. I enclosed the oven proper with 4 inch block then used standard brick for the facade. The top of this sandwich is capped with 2 x 8 wood plates, secured with J bolts. Above the vermiculite, with a four inch air gap, I built a steel stud frame, over which I laid cement board as a fire barrier. Then the wooden roof trusses were nailed to the plates, and a conventional roof was built. The "attic" does get warm, but only from the sun, and I used standard soffit vents in the eaves to lessen this.
I was also considering that...
Did you cement each block together or did you dry stack them and fill the cores like what is recommended for the stand?
I did that exact design on my outdoor Scott oven. 4"x8"x16" blocks on top, each course mortared. Then, I did a wood joist and beam roof (just like a house) on top of that.
The blocks are easy to work with. The downside is that they take a lot of space (8" side to side), and it is difficult to do anything other than straight walls. So if you have space, and just want straight walls (I put up decorative crowns), it's a good option.
Did both. The blocks are mortared and the voids are filled, with a line of half inch rebar along the top course. I cut a groove all around the top course with a hand-held brick saw. Overkill, perhaps, but my oven is high mass.
Cheaper Steel Studs
Not sure where you are at but when I shopped around places like
Menards were like $5 per stud for 3 5/8. Which is about a 2x4x8.
Loews on the other hand had the same thing for 2.40 a stud. Same thing.
Then just buy your tracking in 10Ft pieces. Also 3 5/8.
Hope this helps... !
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