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  #81  
Old 06-19-2012, 09:34 AM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

Russell - Looking forward to see what you do. I'm impressed with the build so far!
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  #82  
Old 06-19-2012, 07:38 PM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

WFOs,

Finally able to catch up on pictures of this weekends build. Got the inner arch bricks cut and was able to do a dry fit. Used the template method by GiannaF (thanks) and made multiple cuts from the scrap wedges from my "model" top dead center arch piece (thanks Tscarborough). Will start the bevel/taper cuts for course 2. Going to try and dial in the jig I made earlier for these compound cuts. Will let you know good or bad.

Russell
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Wood Fired Beehive in Utah-34-inner-arch-6.18.12.jpg   Wood Fired Beehive in Utah-34a-inner-arch-6.18.12.jpg   Wood Fired Beehive in Utah-34b-inner-arch-6.18.12.jpg  
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  #83  
Old 06-19-2012, 07:42 PM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

Part two - Inner Arch Dry Fit.

Got to get cracking, suppose to hit a 100 this week. Lucky for us in Utah the air is drier that other parts of the country.

Russell
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Wood Fired Beehive in Utah-35-inner-arch-6.19.12.jpg   Wood Fired Beehive in Utah-35a-inner-arch-6.19.12.jpg   Wood Fired Beehive in Utah-35b-inner-arch-6.19.12.jpg  
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  #84  
Old 06-19-2012, 09:33 PM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

The inner arch looks great Russell!!! So what amount did you mark to cut off on your arch template? I am planning on doing the exact same thing so I am curious how much you cut off on each side.

Thanks for the email BTW. The added pictures really helped.

Keep up the great work.

Nate
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  #85  
Old 06-20-2012, 03:26 AM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

That's a great looking arch Russell! I also love your bevel taper jig that you made. Patience pays off and it shows in your build.

Dave
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  #86  
Old 06-20-2012, 06:14 AM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

Nate and Dave,

Thanks for the encouragement. The learning curve of the HF saw is getting figured out. The WFOers are right, take your time don't hurry, be patience. I am constantly running back to this forum for opinions from other WFOs.

Nate,

The amount of the arch taper cut off depends on a several factors, one, the radius and shape of the arch, is it semi circular or hemisphere, or other, second, how wide and thick your bricks are, mine are not the usual standard size, they are thicker and wider (3" x 5.25"), third, mortar joint size. If you have an extra $20 go down to you local HD store and look in the tools for a gadget called the Anglelizer, it is made to help make odd angle cuts on stairs and masonary, but the best part there is a software program with the jig that helps you determine arch cuts. But that said, I would be glad to run a couple scenarios with the Angleizer program when you get to that point.

PS, The spouse told me this morning that she never thought she would be replaced by an oven. I asked her if I should stop, got a resounding no since her family would blame her for no "pizza", she's Italian..........

Russell
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  #87  
Old 06-20-2012, 06:33 AM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

Yes, it looks very nice. I like the way you cut the entry floor brick as well.
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  #88  
Old 06-20-2012, 06:49 AM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

Another way to do it on hemispherical arches where you want minimal joints (like the inside arch) is to use the wedges from keystoning the voussoirs. Note that if you want both inner and outer edges of the arch to be continuous you have to make the small end of the wedge at least 1/4" or so.

On the one below, the outside edge was going to be trimmed, so I cut the voussoirs to leave a wedge from X" at the top to zero at the bottom, then dropped them in for the tightest fit, letting the outer edge run wild.


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  #89  
Old 06-20-2012, 07:57 AM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

Another way to skin the cat. Always learning something from this forum.
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  #90  
Old 06-20-2012, 07:31 PM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

Maiden voyage for the brick bevel/taper jig today. I reviewed JCG31's bevel/angle spreadsheet and knew I would have to make some WAGs since my brick is wider and thicker than I believe he used in his development of the table. Clearing out the cobwebs in the gray matter I used some right triangle trig. and determine my angle should be 6 degrees instead of 5 degrees from the table and that the bevel should be 1 degree instead of 0.7 for my second course.

I did a couple trial cuts and it seems to work. I proceeded to cut most of the second chain in abt a hour and the jig worked great. Did learn that brick are not from a perfect world so dimensions vary slightly. Even though I had stops I found that the variance in the brick dimension forced me to make on the fly adjustment. I should be able to hold a 6 degree angle for most of the remaining course only needing to adjust bevel.
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