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  #551  
Old 04-06-2013, 01:40 PM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

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Originally Posted by deejayoh View Post

Seems to me that putting holes in the foil will do more to let water into the dome than it will be a means of letting it escape. my $0.02. Take it fwiw.
Not really, the way I see it, with the foil in this position, is that the wet vermiculite will only lose a tiny bit of moisture from itself exactly where it is sitting against a hole. While moisture underneath the foil will be able to pass through the holes, as vapour, away from the heat source.

A far worse position for the foil is outside the vermicrete layer. This is how I did mine and fortunately I put lots of holes in two places, both about 5 sq ins. Now, if the oven gets a bit wet the outer shell gets hot in those two places, indicating that steam is finding its way out through the holes in the foil. The waterl tends to condense under the foil making removal more difficult.

Last edited by david s; 04-06-2013 at 01:54 PM.
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  #552  
Old 04-06-2013, 01:47 PM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

Whats the purpose of the foil? Foil=barrier, right? Foil with holes= not a true barrier, right?
Whats the point?
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  #553  
Old 04-06-2013, 01:50 PM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

Foil without holes is a barrier to both water and steam. Foil with holes is a barrier to water but not steam.
Given the choice I'd not use foil at all, but foil with holes is an improvement on foil with no holes as my previous post explains.
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  #554  
Old 04-06-2013, 02:28 PM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

The CF i found is used for high temp duct work and came with the reinforce foil mesh already intergrated. I did remove the foil for the first layer but found working with CF not pleasant so opted to install second layer out of the box.

DJ I am adding abt 3/4" concrete render over the perlcrete for my support base under the copper shingles. I probably could of skipped perlcrete but i wanted a little more insulation.
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  #555  
Old 04-06-2013, 07:40 PM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

Foil facing on duct work protects the insulation. If its perforated the holes may be so small that they are difficult to see with the naked eye. Moisture will escape thru very small holes. If the foil is not perforated an efficient means of doing so would be to use a pounce wheel. They are available at fabric or craft supply stores. Foil is a great insulation retarding radiant heat loss.
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  #556  
Old 04-07-2013, 10:03 AM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

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Originally Posted by UtahBeehiver View Post
DJ I am adding abt 3/4" concrete render over the perlcrete for my support base under the copper shingles. I probably could of skipped perlcrete but i wanted a little more insulation.
got it. I would go with Mortar + wire mesh vs. concrete render.
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  #557  
Old 04-07-2013, 05:24 PM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

Mounted my pcrete template to a pivot point from above, cabbaged some old lumber and built a frame for the template pivot point. Also used an old flat head screwdriver that I ground the end to a point and puntured the foil (both layers). I used the 1" grid of the chicken wire as my guide. Useless info. based on my dome size there are 5240 square inches so this many holes in the foil
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  #558  
Old 04-07-2013, 06:04 PM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

Dat dare is a heap load a damn holes....

Chip
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  #559  
Old 04-07-2013, 06:05 PM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

Utah,

Tell me it isn't so! You didn't actually count and punched 5,240 holes in that foil?
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  #560  
Old 04-07-2013, 06:29 PM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

Russell - with the benefit of hindsight, do you recommend I remove my foil, or puncture it?

For the record, I'm not poking 5000 holes in it!
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