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  #291  
Old 04-06-2013, 11:40 AM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

Although I believe a visual perfect form can be achieved by just "eyeballing it" you are doing something quite different with the metal skin. As in building anything a nice solid square foundation is much easier to build a house on and a nice uniform shape will be much easier to put the metal shingles on. I would elect for some type of fixed axis at the top it should not be hard to build something from a few 2x4's that will give you what you need.

Chip
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  #292  
Old 04-06-2013, 02:06 PM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

Didn't the build that you are modeling after use some sort of fiberglass or similar shell for attaching the copper? Seems like you will want a more substantial substrate than vermicrete to attach your copper. Lath and mortar seem like a minimum. Maybe you already thought of this and I should just read back a few posts
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  #293  
Old 04-06-2013, 02:22 PM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

Oh, and one more thought

Your foil is wrapping 1) a cured oven that is 2) covered by dry CF blanket. You are going to cover that with 3) wet vermicrete.

Seems to me that putting holes in the foil will do more to let water into the dome than it will be a means of letting it escape. my $0.02. Take it fwiw.
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  #294  
Old 04-06-2013, 02:40 PM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

Quote:
Originally Posted by deejayoh View Post

Seems to me that putting holes in the foil will do more to let water into the dome than it will be a means of letting it escape. my $0.02. Take it fwiw.
Not really, the way I see it, with the foil in this position, is that the wet vermiculite will only lose a tiny bit of moisture from itself exactly where it is sitting against a hole. While moisture underneath the foil will be able to pass through the holes, as vapour, away from the heat source.

A far worse position for the foil is outside the vermicrete layer. This is how I did mine and fortunately I put lots of holes in two places, both about 5 sq ins. Now, if the oven gets a bit wet the outer shell gets hot in those two places, indicating that steam is finding its way out through the holes in the foil. The waterl tends to condense under the foil making removal more difficult.

Last edited by david s; 04-06-2013 at 02:54 PM.
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  #295  
Old 04-06-2013, 02:47 PM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

Whats the purpose of the foil? Foil=barrier, right? Foil with holes= not a true barrier, right?
Whats the point?
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  #296  
Old 04-06-2013, 02:50 PM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

Foil without holes is a barrier to both water and steam. Foil with holes is a barrier to water but not steam.
Given the choice I'd not use foil at all, but foil with holes is an improvement on foil with no holes as my previous post explains.
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  #297  
Old 04-06-2013, 08:40 PM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

Foil facing on duct work protects the insulation. If its perforated the holes may be so small that they are difficult to see with the naked eye. Moisture will escape thru very small holes. If the foil is not perforated an efficient means of doing so would be to use a pounce wheel. They are available at fabric or craft supply stores. Foil is a great insulation retarding radiant heat loss.
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  #298  
Old 04-07-2013, 11:03 AM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

Quote:
Originally Posted by UtahBeehiver View Post
DJ I am adding abt 3/4" concrete render over the perlcrete for my support base under the copper shingles. I probably could of skipped perlcrete but i wanted a little more insulation.
got it. I would go with Mortar + wire mesh vs. concrete render.
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  #299  
Old 04-07-2013, 07:04 PM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

Dat dare is a heap load a damn holes....

Chip
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  #300  
Old 04-07-2013, 07:05 PM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

Utah,

Tell me it isn't so! You didn't actually count and punched 5,240 holes in that foil?
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