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  #21  
Old 06-12-2012, 08:04 AM
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Post Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

Russell

Just in case you missed this like it did, let that first course float. No mortar between floor and first course seems to be consensus. Mortar between the bricks only for the first course. Take your time and you can get good mortar joints. Are you using the HF wet saw ?
Dry fit with the IT before setting the brick. Hand fitting and eyeball fitting will trick you. The IT will make the face of the brick face towards the center of the oven. I trusted my eyes a few times and mortared a brick and then clamped with the IT to see that the gap i thought was good had changed when the IT properly aligned the brick and the 1/8" gap became a 1/4" or more.
Good luck and enjoy your build.
Tracy
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  #22  
Old 06-12-2012, 10:31 AM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

I am experiencing mortar joint creep which is causing me to adjust one or two bricks to make up for the magically growing mortar joint.
Cut and set about 2 or three bricks at a time. Sounds like you cut the whole course and all looked good, right? I did the same thing. You can use a rubber hammer to encourage the mortar to squeeze out in the vertical joints and get them tighter. I started putting a thin layer on that vertical surface since i knew my joint was tight instead of trying to push large amounts out. Just make sure and not get aggressive and move an adjacent brick that is still wet with the rubber hammer. The horizontal joints will be easier, just apply a downward push on the brick and squeeze the mortar until the lower inner edge butts up (using the IT). HTH
Tracy
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  #23  
Old 06-12-2012, 12:29 PM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

Russell,

I have read through Aegis' thread a few times and thought about the idea but hadn't heard of anything out this direction so I hadn't really considered it too much. But now that I see you with it I will check it out up here and if nothing else, have someone pick some up the next time they come through up to Idaho.

Thanks for the input.

Nate
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  #24  
Old 06-12-2012, 11:00 PM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

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Originally Posted by UtahBeehiver View Post
I am using the old trusted HF saw and have been cutting all my angles for a 1/16 to 1/8" mortar joint.
I'm a little confused. If you are cutting your brick this accurate, why do you need mortar? I found that there is zero chance of cracks if you have the patience to cut them that accurate. I think I am around 3 to 4 years after the build and I have no regrets.
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Old 06-13-2012, 07:40 AM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

Les
the only mortar would be on the bottom of the brick then? No mortar on the vertical joint at all?
Tracy
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Old 06-13-2012, 08:29 AM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

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Les
the only mortar would be on the bottom of the brick then? No mortar on the vertical joint at all?
Tracy
I only used mortar in the back to maintain the angle. I used shims to get the brick where I wanted it and then used a grout bag to fill the space with mortar. I have no mortar on the interior except the plug and one brick on the transition to the arch (if I remember correctly, it's been a few years).
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  #27  
Old 06-13-2012, 10:27 PM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

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Originally Posted by UtahBeehiver View Post
I have been following this forum for over a year now, savaging materials and supplies. I am building a 42" corner build and I have to give credit to all the members for their ideas and innovations. I started last May but was shut down due to shoulder surgery but I am hard at it again now. I just stripped the forms off my build. Thanks for all the inspiration of you WFOs

Russell
Love the arch for wood storage
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  #28  
Old 06-14-2012, 02:25 PM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

Russell -

I was pretty perplexed about the free-standing arch approach and worried about stability. What I finally decided to do (props to Gianni) was tie the arch into the hearth using a buttress. Since the arch is already isolated from the dome, I wasn't too concerned with heat loss from the buttress - but just in case it might be an issue, I built the buttress with insulation. I mortared an insulating firebrick to the arch, and then tied that to the hearth with a chunk of CMU. You can see it in the picture.

It's not the prettiest thing in the world - but the arch now seems rock solid. To your question, I am building an enclosure so I didn't really care how it looked.

Another approach is in Gulf's thread - he built a heat break that tied straight into v-crete. I didn't have that option since I used FB board.

Dennis
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  #29  
Old 06-14-2012, 04:06 PM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

Off the top of my head, a couple ideas that might work with an igloo

- cut away the FB insulation under the arch bricks and tie straight down to the hearth through a layer of IFB - the idea being that the IFB is more structurally solid than the calsil and foam glass, so you can sit the whole arch on it
- Tie the arch into the dome in only a few places - e.g. leave a 1/4 gap except for a few inches at each side and at the keystones. That would reduce the area for thermal transmission.

I have to say that even just curing the oven, I can see a signficant drop between the temperature of the dome and the temperature of the arch. I'm pretty happy I put in a heat break.
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  #30  
Old 06-15-2012, 04:10 PM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

I think that the arch could be set directly on the concrete hearth if it is seperated from the oven by a heat break. The floor of the entry could still remain on the insulated layer to keep the height consistant
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