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  #161  
Old 08-20-2012, 09:16 AM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

That looks great! congratulations. I like that keystone. How are you doing the flue transition in the rear? I had to do some heroics back there so learn from me. Be sure and build your flue transition with support from the rear of the arch.
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  #162  
Old 08-21-2012, 05:51 AM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

just cutting in.....
Nice work Russell read it most days as inspiration for when the weather turns and my build accelerates.
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  #163  
Old 08-21-2012, 06:02 AM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

My counters are pretty bad. I poured in place, and then just ground them off smooth. I wasn't real concerned about looks just function. Do a search for polished counters and there are some excellent examples on here.
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  #164  
Old 08-21-2012, 07:01 AM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

I wouldn't polish at all, just hard trowel it.
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  #165  
Old 08-21-2012, 07:21 AM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

i second the hard trowel.
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  #166  
Old 08-21-2012, 02:37 PM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

Russ, i love it, the finishing touches are truly superb. The Keystones, inspired.

Very class act. Enjoy it, and the admiration from all who get to see it firsthand.
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  #167  
Old 08-25-2012, 02:04 PM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

that oven is too purty. needs some smoke stains!

JK. Nice work. Looking forward to seeing the concrete pour. I am going to do the same with my counter, but I think I'm going to learn from you on this one
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  #168  
Old 08-27-2012, 04:44 PM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

Quote:
Amac, does the chimney design look familar,
It looks a hell of a lot better finished Russell. I'll never make the masons guild - but that is some neat bricklaying and pointing.
Quote:
Been watching AMAC to see how his polish concrete pour is coming along
The concrete polish is going OK. Definitely far from perfect but I think it will be good enough I don't have to cover it in tiles I had some slight sagging towards the middle of the form - and some bubbles I didn't vibrate out, also some clustering of my glass. The bubbles are not a big problem as they can be filled but take care with the form - make sure you seal the edges. If the melamine is coating chipboard it will swell with any moisture. I used gafferr tape which worked well.
One problem with pouring in situ is you can't polish right up to the corners around the arches. I will just be making a best effort there using the pads manually.
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  #169  
Old 08-27-2012, 07:49 PM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

Russel,
Hello from a new forum member. Your oven is a beauty. I have picked up a world of good info from your thread. Thanks for sharing. I am in the beginning stages of my project but trying to look ahead so I can keep all my ducks in a row. I was wondering, since you are in a hot, dry, climate if you kept your freshly mortared joints wet while they cured? I know concrete needs to be kept wet for as long as possible to slow down the cure, but I don't know about bricks and mortar. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Joe
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  #170  
Old 08-29-2012, 10:06 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Carlsbad
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

Russel,

Your build is clean my man!! Hey where did you find your rope? All I found online was hundreds of feet of the stuff!

I did a polished concrete top for my adjacent BBQ area and I think it came out great. A bit rustic looking which worked perfect for the application and I stripped the forms and have them sitting in my garage to use the other side for the WFO landings/tops.

I too did my research and I used the "Cheung" method with Quikrete countertop mix ($11 per bag at HD, special order) and some integral color powder I bought online and seled it with real tung oil. One thing I noticed about the Quickrete mix is that there is no aggregate in it, just coarse sand. There are a lot of little multi-color flecks going on in it as well (red brick it almost looks like), to me it almost looks like the sand came off a composite roof shingle. The other thing about the Quikrete is that when they say platicized- they mean it. I followed the water amounts and mixing times precisely and the mixture was the consistency of green slime and didn't flow like a regular concrete. Doing further research on concrete tops leads me to believe that it is intended to be a "press-in" mix, there were lots of pinholes (easily filled/polished) thus giving (to me at least) the rustic look. I also bought a set of diamond pads off Amazon for $40 and put them on my 4 1/2" orbital sander...it worked good but I think I would/am going to HF and get a disposable sander.

All that being said I think I am going to use regular Quickrete 5000, add some decorative aggregate and platicizers for my next go around. I'll probably use the same color powder but I do want the WFO to be different. The best thing about these tops is you can do ANYTHING you can think of with them, they look pretty good and comparatively (if you don't count the time invested!!) they are super cheap. Polishing pads ($40), mix ($60), form melamine ($30) put me back a whopping $130. I went to a remnant stone place and told them I would template, pick up and install the top and I was quoted $650, and the price would go up if it wasn't a remnant.

Keep up the good work gents...all you guys motivate me!!
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