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  #91  
Old 06-20-2012, 07:47 PM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

Hey Gulf,

Been thinking about what you told the guy in OC Ca about hiding his igloo behind the nice timber framed cover. Got me thinking of maybe putting a cover over mine but leaving the side open so my igloo can be seen. Similar to yours.

Russell
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  #92  
Old 06-20-2012, 08:10 PM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

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Originally Posted by UtahBeehiver View Post
Did learn that brick are not from a perfect world so dimensions vary slightly
Hey Russel,

Yea, you learn real fast. A 1/6 of an inch doesn't seem like much but after 2 or 3 bricks you get into the weeds real fast.

Good luck!
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  #93  
Old 06-21-2012, 10:19 AM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

That is the real purpose of mortar: to allow imprecise masonry units to be used. It also one of the determinates of joint size in normal masonry and why specifications allow so much variance in joint sizes, especially head joints. Fire brick ARE precise by normal brick standards FYI, and that is why <1/8" joints are specified as opposed to the normal 3/8".
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  #94  
Old 06-21-2012, 10:43 AM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

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Originally Posted by UtahBeehiver View Post
I should be able to hold a 6 degree angle for most of the remaining course only needing to adjust bevel.
In my experience, that wasn't true as I went up. It depends on the number of bricks you use on each course.

The angle will be = (360 degrees/# of bricks per course)/2 [or more simply 180/# of bricks per course]

If you are using 30 bricks per course, 6 degrees is correct. As you get way up into the dome, you'll start using fewer and fewer bricks. On my last few courses I was using 12-15 bricks, and the angles were 12-15 degrees on the sides. If I had figured out that formula a bit sooner, My dome would have been a lot tighter!
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  #95  
Old 06-21-2012, 01:23 PM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

Thanks Deeyjayoh,

I was making an assumption based on Jgp31's taper/bevel chart. I was planning on doing test or model cuts on each chain just to be sure anyway. Glad you pointed out your experience though.

Russell
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  #96  
Old 06-21-2012, 01:46 PM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

Well Tscarborough,

Bring me back to earth. I deal with mils (0.001") all day long in my regular work that a 1/16" is gigantic to me. Need to change my thought process to the right side instead of the left side of the brain. But I have taken to heart that the important part of the tolerance is the inside face of the dome and coming to grips the reducing the horizontal mortar gap on the outside of the dome in not nearly as critical if not near impossible. Thanks for the feedback.
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  #97  
Old 06-22-2012, 03:43 AM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

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In my experience, that wasn't true as I went up. It depends on the number of bricks you use on each course.

The angle will be = (360 degrees/# of bricks per course)/2 [or more simply 180/# of bricks per course]
That's a very good insight Dennis - like all the best ideas it becomes obvious after someone points it out.
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  #98  
Old 06-22-2012, 06:57 AM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

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That's a very good insight Dennis - like all the best ideas it becomes obvious after someone points it out.
In my experience the angles are consistent as long as the brick size is equal across the course. Once i had the trim one brick to correct an angle or taper, it is difficult to get back to the consistent angle. If i cut the whole course first, and left room for mortar in the calc, everything looked pretty and ready. Once i began setting the bricks, one or two would be out of kilter somehow and i ended up re-cutting and shaving several bricks already cut. So, i ended up cutting two or three at a time and hoping they would behave as i expected as i set them. (Gianni's advice) I can't remember how many times i thought i had two or three ready to set only to get the brick loaded with mortar and mounted in the IT and started squishing to find that it did not align properly either vertically or horizontally or both. The reason is; I cut the brick and checked alignment by hand when i should have checked alignment by placing the brick in the IT. The IT makes the face of the brick point to the center of the oven. A few degrees are hard to see the way I have to work from the outside of the oven. I set most of my bricks by touch, because i can't see the face working from the outside of the oven. Once the IT is attached and the mortar is oozing and the flies are biting and the sweat is dripping and the mortar is drying, use your fingers to feel the bottom corners in relation to the upper edge of the brick below. You can tell the vertical joint quality from above and feel the internal facing vertical joint with your fingers to detect quality. If i had it to do over again (third time) i would use les's method and use less mortar and mainly use mortar to fill the horizontal gaps and just make good vertical joints with little or no mortar.
Just my 2 cents.

Tracy
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Old 06-22-2012, 07:16 AM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

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Once the IT is attached and the mortar is oozing and the flies are biting and the sweat is dripping and the mortar is drying,....


...and the rain is starting and the wind is blowing, and your back is aching ,and your fingers are sore.

The ovenbuilders alternative to:

"Summertime and the living is easy .. fish are jumping and the cotton is high"

Quote:
Once i began setting the bricks, one or two would be out of kilter somehow and i ended up re-cutting and shaving several bricks already cut
This is a problem on the vertical joints though if you cut too much angle. i guessed for the second row that the angle would be greater than the first, and it isn't - and I had the entire row cut I ended up turning some of them backwards to compensate. The lesson I took was - better too small an angle than too large.

Last edited by Amac; 06-22-2012 at 08:12 AM.
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  #100  
Old 06-22-2012, 01:07 PM
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Default Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

Texman and Amac,

I am learning from both of you. Texman, cut a few check a fit cut a few more (although it is tempting to just keep cutting while the saw is set up). Amac, too small and angle is better than too much, so cutting a few brick stepping back seems a good approach too from your perspective. Finished second, course this morning except closure bricks, getting hot so came inside for a little AC and refueling. Going head back out and set the saw up for course 3.

Thanks for the input.
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