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  #21  
Old 04-04-2012, 07:54 AM
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Default Re: Texman Build

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Originally Posted by texman View Post
...snip... I thought i would avoid that problem for a while since my first two courses are vertical and the bricks are cut the same (I thought) I will begin the dome curve on the third course. Thanks again for looking and for all the great guidance you left for all of us.

Tracy
Tracy

I don't see the two rings of 'vertical bricks', where are they?
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  #22  
Old 04-04-2012, 08:23 AM
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Default Re: Texman Build

I will begin the dome curve on the third course. i did not set the starter course on the end of the brick, as the fb plans say, i decided to lay the first two courses flat instead for stability. I just meant no dome curve for the first two courses. make sense? i tried to mark the photo to explain.
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  #23  
Old 04-04-2012, 01:02 PM
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Default Re: Texman Build

Quote:
If so, do you recut all the bricks to remain uniform for the second course or use an odd piece to correct as needed every six bricks or so?
Don't recut your bricks, just stagger them. When you get an odd-size piece just slide it in and keep going. Gives your oven character. Plus, with each course the circumference tightens and you'll be forced to adjust your brick size. Just don't cut each course at once, rather three or four at a time that you can keep on bond.
John
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  #24  
Old 04-04-2012, 01:52 PM
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Default Re: Texman Build

That makes sense. I did cut the whole course and was watching and tweaking the taper cut not watching the bond. Thanks for the tip!
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  #25  
Old 04-04-2012, 02:08 PM
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Thumbs up Re: Texman Build

Quote:
Originally Posted by texman View Post
I will begin the dome curve on the third course. i did not set the starter course on the end of the brick, as the fb plans say, i decided to lay the first two courses flat instead for stability. I just meant no dome curve for the first two courses. make sense? i tried to mark the photo to explain.
I understand now....Using a sailor course is a good decision in my view.
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  #26  
Old 04-24-2012, 06:56 AM
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Default Re: Texman Build

I have set the first two Sailor (or soldier) courses. Not sure on the terminology.The pic a is my arch template, hopefully it will keep me in line. Pic d is the beginning of the arch transition. I have some small issues to work out there. Pic h is the IT i am using. it is in the shop for modifications. The angle iron is too wide and interferes with the adjacent brick and the clamp throat is too deep and protrudes to interfere with the brick below it. Pic b is of my consideration in using the pieces removed to fill in the gaps as i begin the dome transition. Is this a good idea?
Pic e is of the layout.
Attached Thumbnails
Texman Build-042412a.jpg   Texman Build-042412d.jpg   Texman Build-042412h.jpg   Texman Build-042412b.jpg   Texman Build-042412e.jpg  

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  #27  
Old 04-30-2012, 07:40 AM
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Default Re: Texman Build

Quote:
The angle iron is too wide and interferes with the adjacent brick and the clamp throat is too deep and protrudes to interfere with the brick below it
Also the shaft should attach at the centre point (top to bottom) of the angle iron. It means that a line through the centre of the brick will point at the dome centre. Yours looks like it is a little low, meaning the brick will "lay back" a bit. Not a major problem - a different design which a lot of people use is just a flat board with a block screwed on underneath and it seems to work OK (it would have the opposite effect) - but having gone to that much trouble why not. There is a cheap quick release clamp which doesn't need screwing to tighten or release - it might be better (Irwin is the make I used).
I would think the use of the slices in the "joints" will not cause any problems other than they might be finicky to mortar in.

Last edited by Amac; 04-30-2012 at 07:42 AM.
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  #28  
Old 04-30-2012, 07:52 AM
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Default Re: Texman Build

Amac

i modified the IT and used it this weekend. I have gone from too low to too high on the center placement. IT is working, but caused me some problems this weekend. I removed several bricks that were mortared the night before because i was convinced they were at the wrong angle. I really think it is the tool not being centered and not having the brick placed properly in the tool. The relief spacer(piece welded to inner side of angle iron) should be at the top of angle iron, that would be better. I think it will work, after this weekend of use. The next layer is lining up good looks like( 2nd pic) thanks for the help!

Tracy
will post progress in a few.
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Texman Build-042912it.jpg   Texman Build-042912wfo8.jpg  
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  #29  
Old 04-30-2012, 09:08 AM
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Red face Re: Texman Build

Glad to sit down for a while. Made decent progress this weekend, i think. i learned much this weekend. The real work starts when you start the dome curve. For me, that was the third course. Thank you to Amac for pointing out the problem with the IT. I may make a third revision of that for the next course, but i think it will work either way.

I removed about 8 or 9 bricks and 2 from the arch because i thought that the angle was off. My angle isn't perfect because of the IT problem, but i think maybe a perfect IT centered would change the angle maybe a 1/16". Don't know if that is worth worrying about after laying a "real angled" course. The proof of the tool accuracy is when you start the next course above the previous angled course. If it doesn't line up with the top inner edge of the brick below, the tool is off. That is what happened i thought. that is why i removed the 8 or 9 mortared bricks. What really happened, i think, is that i placed a brick in the IT at the wrong angle and tested the alignment. I then believed my angle was wrong and removed the mortared bricks. I relayed them and did the same test and the alignment was wrong again. then i noticed the brick was not in the tool at the correct angle, which caused the error. Lesson, be sure of your IT before depend on it. Use shims and test alignment on each succeeding course.

I am some what glad i took the bricks apart. I found out what kind of brick layer i am and also that i need to be a better one in places. i also learned the importance of consistent mortar mix, moist bricks and compression of the mortar joints to remove voids. I am using Alsey flue set and the mortar needs to be used within 15 minutes of mixing, after 15 minutes, the mortar will not compress to achieve consistent mortar joints. As a newbie, i think i should have mixed some test batches and then taken them apart to see what a good joint looks and feels like. now i know at least more than i did. some joints were only bonded on one side(dry brick below) is suspect. pic wfo1, wfo2, wfo4, wfo5.
I relaid the removed bricks and cut the remainder for that course. pic wfo6
It is exhausting working on the rear of this oven! no room and i have to get in the oven to get comfortable reach. i am spraying the layer blow with water as i go, since i cant dip those bricks in water after they are set. they need to be moist just like the brick you are setting. keep bricks moist and use consistent mortar! (drink beer in between mortar batches)

Tracy
Attached Thumbnails
Texman Build-042912wfo1.jpg   Texman Build-042912wfo2.jpg   Texman Build-042912wfo4.jpg   Texman Build-042912wfo5.jpg   Texman Build-042912wfo6.jpg  

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  #30  
Old 04-30-2012, 09:13 AM
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Default Re: Texman Build

more pics
pic 7 course three laid. Fighting the bond joints. So much to keep up with.
brick alignment, bond alignment, mortar mix, dont move the brick you just set, dont let the mortar dry out, make a pretty oven (drink beer)

pic 8 ready for the next course

elsa-new german shepherd puppy. i am as tired as she is!
Tracy
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Texman Build-042912wfo7.jpg   Texman Build-042912wfo8.jpg   Texman Build-elsa042912.jpg  
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