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#11
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I managed to cut most of the floor and begin laying it out on the fb board with a mix of sand and fireclay. The water pump in the HF saw lasted about two hours and quit. I spend the rest of Saturday trying to get a pump that would work. I finally ended up with a direct drive 210 gph pond pump that would supply a sufficient amount of water to the blade ($45 at lowes) i also replaced the supply line from the pump to blade housing with vinyl. The old line was already brittle. I just decided to pump fresh water from a five gallon bucket instead of recirculate the water in the saw pan water catch. I am still trying to get the floor level and get rid of the edges you can see in the photo. I am also starting to realize that i didn't leave myself enough of a landing for the wfo. any ideas on adding about 6-8 inches of landing? I am thinking i can support the landing addition with the arch for wood storage below. Tracy
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#12
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| Texman, my oven entry is 15 inches deep and I'm happy....What depth are you proposing? Remember, you have to reach the depth of your oven PLUS the depth of your entry.
__________________ To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Lee B. DFW area, Texas, USA If you are thinking about building a brick oven, my advice is To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Our One Meter Pompeii Oven album is here: To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. An album showing our Thermal Breaks is To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. I try to learn from my mistakes, and from yours when you give me a heads up. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. |
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#13
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| :Lee I get this message when i try and view your oven album-"Invalid Album specified. If you followed a valid link, please notify the administrator" I can see your thermal breaks pics though. Glad to see the pics of thermal breaks. I am still trying to get that into the plan at this point. My landing depth is the same as yours, 6" vent, 4.5" outer arch and 4.5" decorative arch = 15". Or do you measure from the inside of the inner arch? then it would be 19.5" I think i will be ok if 15" is the correct measurement. I just wont have room for a nice granite shelf like yours.
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#14
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| To clarify: My oven entry and flu structure is shallow (11.5 inches), the total entry depth on my oven is 15 inches, including the decorative brick. Make sense now? Does the link work now Texman? ![]() P.S. Thermal breaks are optional. ![]()
__________________ To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Lee B. DFW area, Texas, USA If you are thinking about building a brick oven, my advice is To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Our One Meter Pompeii Oven album is here: To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. An album showing our Thermal Breaks is To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. I try to learn from my mistakes, and from yours when you give me a heads up. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Last edited by Lburou; 02-06-2012 at 07:31 AM. |
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#15
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| Lee I still get the same message on your oven album. See the pic attached of Les oven landing. He shows 12" on his, I would have about 4.5", or the depth of the decorative arch would be my landing depth. I think it will work. I could have a granite/or soapstone with a small (maybe 3") overhang if needed. I plan to cover the oven base with old chicago brick to match the house. I will probably use the old chicago for decorative arch as well. I am still trying to decide about the final enclosure. i have some restrictions on space next to the existing brick of the house. Not sure the about the usefulness of a big landing area? More work area for sure, but that reach gets long as well. hope to see your build pics soon. Tracy
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#16
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| Quote:
That sounds like a good plan. Its good to know where you are going on this project.
__________________ To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Lee B. DFW area, Texas, USA If you are thinking about building a brick oven, my advice is To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Our One Meter Pompeii Oven album is here: To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. An album showing our Thermal Breaks is To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. I try to learn from my mistakes, and from yours when you give me a heads up. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. |
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#17
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| I looked back and I started the kitchen on March 26,2010. So two years later and I am finally building the WFO. I have the first row laid out and everything setup, i hope. It all seems to be coming together at this point. I need some info on the thermal break. Should it be placed at the outside edge of the inner arch or at the outer edge of vent as i have now? It has been a long way since the blue tape on an empty slab. I need some motivation so i looked back to the beginning pics. The pics here are of the inner arch placement with the IT checking distance from center. I think it looks good, but let me know if anyone sees otherwise. Tracy
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#18
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| I have gotten the arch cut and laid out as well as cut the first two soldier courses. All dry stacked so far. I am working up the nerve to mix the mortar and make it all stick. I think the arch turned out good, i need to make a few tweaks on the inside of the arch to make it pretty. I have a template on posterboard that i will set in the arch to guide my mortar joints and hopefully make the arch uniform with the keystone centered. I am already seeing the bond joints get closer than i like and i am trying to decide if it is worth the trouble to make them uniform. Some one decided that they needed my tools more than i did. So i use to have well seasoned tools that i could grab without hardly looking, now i have new pretty ones that i have to look for to find in the box all the time. Oh well, part of the journey. The Huskey 10" blade lasted almost through the arch cuts and first course and then gave up. Thought it would last longer. I have a Dewalt this go-round. I cut all bricks using the scrap that is removed as my angle guide. Worked well and was easy. i measured the angle for the first cut and marked and then used the piece removed as my guide and made minor tweaks as needed.
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#19
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| Tracy, Nice start on your oven! That's a lot of nice cuts on the inner arch. I love the look of hemispherical arches! Make sure you stagger your dome bricks and you'll be golden. I too went through two or three Husky blades - you just gotta cut slowly and keep your saw water jets clear and flowing. No matter what tool you use, the skill and results come from your heart and hands. Keep the pics coming. John |
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#20
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| Thanks John. It should resemble your build, since i think have your thread just about memorized by now. Would you suggest that i make cuts as necessary on the second layer to remain on bond? If so, do you recut all the bricks to remain uniform for the second course or use an odd piece to correct as needed every six bricks or so? I am sure the uniform is the best now that i have asked the question. I thought i would avoid that problem for a while since my first two courses are vertical and the bricks are cut the same (I thought ) I will begin the dome curve on the third course. Thanks again for looking and for all the great guidance you left for all of us.Tracy
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