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  #121  
Old 06-18-2012, 01:55 PM
Serf
 
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Location: TN
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Default Re: Texman Build

Great Build Texman,

I noticed in one of your pictures you are using Alsey Refactories bags. Is this mortar "Sarabond"? I ordered 3 bags from Larkin Refactory in Gorgia, and this is the material they sent. I am debating whether to use this material or use the home brew. I believe it will be good mortar. Did you just add small amount of water, or do you add some sand as well? Also, looks like your brick height is 3 inches, is this correct. I plan to do the same.

thanks

Manny

Last edited by u863583; 06-19-2012 at 10:02 AM.
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  #122  
Old 06-18-2012, 02:06 PM
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Default Re: Texman Build

Manny

Thanks.

It is Alsey Flu set. I have attached the spec sheet. I ordered it from Larkin as well. Just a small amount of water is all you need, no sand. You will mix very small batches because the mixed mortar cannot be re-tempered with water to extend working time. The mix should be used within 15 minutes of adding water. So, you get really good at mixing.

The brick are alsey std. 9.5 x 4.5 x 2.5 straights.

No offense to the many superb builds that have used homebrew, but i wanted to use the refractory mortar. Since it has no portland it is easier on the hands and fingers too. HTH

Tracy
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File Type: pdf Flue-set tech data.pdf (155.6 KB, 80 views)
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  #123  
Old 06-18-2012, 02:59 PM
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Default Re: Texman Build

well done Tracy - The inner side of the arch blends into the dome so nicely.
Quote:
She may not be the prettiest gal at the dance, but i bet she will cook and keep me warm at night. I cleaned her teeth and did some minor dental work on the inside arch and i am pleased with the results
And in pic 2 I believe I see a "smiley" just above the arch - a bit more this than this - but she sure looks happy after all that cosmetic surgery.
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  #124  
Old 06-20-2012, 06:23 AM
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Thanks Amac. Did you just "eyeball" the taper and angle cuts of the dome? Or did you have a method to make the cuts right the first time?
Tracy
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  #125  
Old 06-20-2012, 10:48 AM
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No - because I had a semicircle I could work it out. It is still not perfect but I was happy with the outcome.

If I remember rightly this is the method:

Get the length of the circumference of the outside of the arch (pi * D)/2. Then - allowing for your normal mortar joint - divide the thickness of a brick + mortar joint into the arch circumference. That will give you the number of bricks in the arch.

Then get the circumference of the inside of the arch. Divide that by the nr of bricks and it should give you the width that a brick + mortar joint needs to be at the inside. Subtract the mortar joint width and you have the inside brick width.
Subtract this from the normal brick width and either construct a template or carefully mark each brick using 1/2 that value on each side of the inner brick (see the pic).

I can't remember what type of cutter you have but I had an angle grinder and a lot of the cutting was more like shaving to get it more accurate. It is better to take off too little than too much.

Sorry that method sounds complicated but it isn't really. A close scrutiny will show you that not all the bricks are exactly the same, and I never succeeded in getting a single keystone.
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  #126  
Old 06-20-2012, 11:38 AM
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That is exactly what i did as well on the arch. I guess i can use my inner arch jig and set shims on it to get the outer arch sized a 1/2" larger as the FB plans suggest to leave a reveal. some builders have angled the entry way to the inner arch, but i am thinking straight. Not sure.

On the cuts of the dome brick, i just haven't come up with a better way other than shaving to get as close a tolerance as desired. Sometime i get it the first try, but usually about two cuts (total of four) on each half brick to get it close enough to set. Hopefully, i can get courses 9 and 10 this weekend with a little work during the week. I cant tell how many courses to the plug yet, but i bet there are many that can on a 37" wfo. I will keep going til i get there.
Tracy
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  #127  
Old 06-20-2012, 12:06 PM
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Sorry Tracy - I misread "arch" for "dome".

For the smaller bricks (e.g 3 per brick) there was a bit of eyeballing OK. The inside to outsde of the bricks doesn't change (say 5į) but the angle from top to bottom was always changing so a bit of guesswork was called for. You can get three (at least) workable bricks from one using this method. Later I also cut the ends off but I can't find any photos. I used a plywood trapezium shaped template and used it to mark the bricks top and bottom and then joined them. Laku has a good sketchup pic of the principle involved.

BTW I did cut a completely new form for the entry arch and I made it at least an inch reveal. I could see any advantage just 1/2" gave.
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  #128  
Old 06-20-2012, 02:54 PM
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Quote:
A close scrutiny will show you that not all the bricks are exactly the same, and I never succeeded in getting a single keystone
OMG!!! Aidan, didn't we go over this a bunch! I never thought I'd hear you say this!

Honestly Tracy, you're doing a great job. Aidan nailed it when he described the process as shaving, rather than cutting. I too found this the only way to get the tolerances that I wanted. I think too many builders get hung up on '1/2 brick' and '1/3 brick' thing instead of just cutting the next brick to fit the bond. This might be the best approach for those who want to put their oven up asap, but for the rest, shaving is the way to go, especially for builders who take the time to bevel each brick.

I didn't worry and let the number of courses work its way out. When you get to the plug, you'll know what to do, just like correcting your slight droop.
John
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  #129  
Old 06-21-2012, 03:42 AM
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Hi John - actually I was talking about the outer arch tapers when I mentioned shaving (I hardly tapered the inner arch at all) - I think at the last few rows you can use the principle of cutting three shaped bricks from one brick. It saves the blade (and some brick). Shaving is hard on the blade.
The last row in the pic below I did using a small trapezium shaped piece of plywood for a template so it can be done OK. I found Lakus pic - it shows just two and two discards but for the top few rows, you can get three - a bit smaller - and discard both narrow ends.
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Last edited by Amac; 06-21-2012 at 04:55 AM.
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  #130  
Old 06-24-2012, 12:02 PM
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course 9 and 10 are in. Seems like the closer i get to top, the farther it gets. I am guessing 12 courses and a plug, but we shall see.
I think my head is as thick as these firebrick. I finally realized (on course 10) that i could have been doing the simple calc (pi x dia/# of bricks) on each course to get really closer and easier cuts. I did that for the arch and then forgot it i guess. Too much brick dust and sweat and beer makes your head thick. Classic case of "damn the torpedos" and move on despite all the preparation and tools at your disposal. One unintended consequence i think of this though; even when i have a vertical joint that appears close to the one below on the inner oven, the actual vertical joint is some crazy angle that doesnt line up with the one above or below. Maybe it makes it stronger. I really think strength in a lot of ovens is overrated. I think you need enough mortar and strength to hold it together, and no more. Heat and gravity will take care of the rest over time. As i said before, i think Les's approach is the better technique as far as mortar application. It will be 100 degrees plus all week here in texas, so lots of water and learn to take my time.
Tracy
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Texman Build-062412a.jpg   Texman Build-062412b.jpg   Texman Build-062412c.jpg   Texman Build-062412d.jpg  
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