To taper or not to taper?

[cholme]

This is why I like this forum group, so much great input! I am hoping my bricks come in in the next coule days, so I can start the next step. In case anyone is interested I started a thread to share my progress. I figure I've been looking at everyone's for the last 4 years, perhaps my mistakes will help someone else.

Thanks for everything

Chris

http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f8/3...aks-16176.html (32" Oven in Sherman Oaks)

[brickie in oz]

Originally Posted by cholme

I figure I've been looking at everyone's for the last 4 years, perhaps my mistakes will help someone else.

After 4 years of voyeurism you shouldnt have any mistakes.....

[boylanta]

Originally Posted by RTflorida

I tapered and beveled the 2 sides, virtually eliminating mortar between sides and eliminated that inverted v . It took me a full weekend about 3-4 hrs a day during the week to get my dome up. I'd guess about 35 hrs, plus another full day on the inner and outer arches.

RT

Newbie builder question.
My first post after pouring through the forum for a few weeks...

I'm sure I'm missing something, but does anyone see anything wrong with tapering just 1 side of the brick?
For example, instead of the first course requiring (2) ~5° cuts to make a trapezoid shape, what about taking ~10° off of one side only.
I'm thinking of only tapering the side(s), and shimming the vertical.

If you look at the sketchup thumbnails I attached:
the 1st pic shows 3 different ways to do the 2nd course, while shimming the vertical gap:
-4.5"x4.5X half brick, untapered
-making (1) ~10° cut on a half brick
-making (2) ~5° cuts on a half brick

the 2nd pic shows the backside of those 3 courses. You can easily see the larger mortar gaps on the bottom, un-tapered chain.
The top 2 (tapered ) have identical grout gaps.

the 3rd pic shows the 2 cuts necessary to make 2 bricks by making (1) ~10° cut and a 90° cut.

the 4th pic shows the face of the 3 different approaches.

the 5th pic is the half soldier chain and 1st chain without any taper

Does anyone see any issues with this approach of tapering 1 side only?
I realize the higher courses will require a steeper angle than ~10° to close off the dome.
I know I'm severely over-thinking this, but I'm waiting for my ceramic fiber materials to arrive, so I'm trying to plan out the most efficient approach moving forward, and this seems like it requires far fewer cuts.

Thanks in advance and thank you to all who have contributed to this forum.
It's a truly amazing resource.

Todd B.

[Ken524]

Hi Todd,

I don't see any problem at all with your approach.

In your 3rd pic, why are you cutting the brick twice? Seems like it would be easier to center the 10° cut to have 2 identical bricks.

Looks like you are ready to start building!

[mrchipster]

Look at my post on cutting 2 bricks with 3 cuts or 3 bricks with 4 cuts.

http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f28/...tml#post121305 (Possible - New idea for brick cutting table)

Chip

[Amac]

instead of the first course requiring (2) ~5° cuts to make a trapezoid shape, what about taking ~10° off of one side only.

That is what a lot of people including myself have done for the lower courses. I think 10° is about right (depends on your dome radius) but don't do what I did and make that angle a fraction too big. Err on the small side if at all. You won't want thick joints at the inside. On the outside they are fine.

I agree with Ken - why not cut the brick in two equal halves at an appropriate angle. A sub goal for all of us who used an angle grinder was to minimise the number of cuts.

I realize the higher courses will require a steeper angle than ~10° to close off the dome.

The angle from inside to outside of the dome doesn't change even at the higher courses - you will still have 10° but you will have a trapezium shape at the exposed sides of the bricks, and then you will need something like Chips idea.

[mrchipster]

Originally Posted by Amac

A sub goal for all of us who used an angle grinder was to minimise the number of cuts.

A table jig like this would even work for the angle grinder as it would allow you to position the bricks at an angle that could then be cut through vertically allowing for a more consistent angle. You would of course need to clamp the brick to the jig table when using an angle grinder.

Chip

[boylanta]

Originally Posted by Ken524

Hi Todd,

I don't see any problem at all with your approach.

In your 3rd pic, why are you cutting the brick twice? Seems like it would be easier to center the 10° cut to have 2 identical bricks.

Looks like you are ready to start building!

Ken,
Correct, that was a mistake. I meant to halve the brick w/ one cut as you mentioned. Thanks for the reply.
I've spent a lot of time studying your build. Looks great.
As you can see, my sketchup mock vent arch is modeled alost exactly after yours.
Tks.

Todd B.

[boylanta]

Originally Posted by mrchipster

Look at my post on cutting 2 bricks with 3 cuts or 3 bricks with 4 cuts.

http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f28/...tml#post121305 (Possible - New idea for brick cutting table)

Chip

Chip,
That looks great.
I'll think I'll end up giving that a try.
That will accomplish the taper & bevel to further minimize the interior mortar "V".

For the bottom board, that looks like a scrap of plywood, correct?
How did you afix the bottom board to the saw table, was just the clamp sufficient?
And what size saw do you have to allow that much clearance to allow for both boards?
I'm going to get HF 10" that I think most in the forum are using.
My 7" certainly won't be sufficient.
Once you were setup, did the setup remain consistent for each chain?
Thanks.

Todd B.

[boylanta]

Originally Posted by mrchipster

Look at my post on cutting 2 bricks with 3 cuts or 3 bricks with 4 cuts.

http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f28/...tml#post121305 (Possible - New idea for brick cutting table)

Chip

Chip,
How did you lift the outside of the brick to achieve your vertical, I assume just shims & mortar?
Tks again.

Todd B.