| Pizza Ovens | (800) 407-5119 | Info@fornobravo.com |
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#11
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| Hi Guys! thanks for all the comments! I will modify my structural bottom concrete layer to 3" rather than 4" with 3" of perlcrete on top. Marcel: Yes we do call each other "mate" here in Kiwi country Marcel: my firebricks are approx 30-35% alumina, so should be OK. Here is another reason for going for bricks cut in "thirds" : I have just priced firebricks: they are NZD$4.68 (US$ 3.22) a piece.... ( I am not just a Kiwi, but also a Dutchman Re the insulating blanket: I have found an alternative: its called "Rockwool" and has a maximum service temperature of 650C (1209F) so I think it should be OK. It comes in various thicknesses: e.g. there is one that is 25mm (1") thick and 750mm wide and 6mtr long (for NZD$135). The nice thing is that this stuff is stuck onto a backing of 1" wire mesh, which allows me to 'shape' the thing pretty much the way I want and then stucco straight over the top. I suppose my philosophy is: not too much thermal mass, but insulate the sh*t out of it, so you can still retain the heat for a "reasonable" time. Marcel: re being 'independently wealthty..' No I am sorry to report that I am not. James: thanks for the comment about your Firenze oven, my thoughts have also been based on that info. Rounding up: the info and thinking on here has been invaluable so far. I am quite looking forward to (most likely) having the first Pompeii oven in NZ. Next weekend I will start on the base. I'll make heaps of pics and keep you guys posted. Cheers Peter. |
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#12
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Not that I'm opposed to thirds cut bricks: I think I came up with that suggestion in the first place. David |
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#13
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Marcel |
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#14
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| Going back to KiwiPete's posting about the $25,000 (NZD) oven. If you can find another one of those, we would be happy to provide the oven for that price -- and we could throw in a 6 pack of beer for the referral. Send 'em our way. James
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#15
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| Marcel and KiwiPete, Dutchmen everywhere. Our partner who installs outdoor kitchens in the wine country using Forno Bravo ovens and fireplaces is Dutch (deJong), as is one of our daughters' music teachers (Masselink). They knew each other before we met them individually. I gather you pronounce deJong -- de young. Is there a large Dutch ex-pat community in the states or New Zealand, along the lines of the English? James
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#16
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| Hi Guys, James: with regards to the $25,000 pizza oven: I'll take a picture of it and post it on here. And yes: I'd be more than happy to refer your products to people here - hell, I could become your NZ representative... but then again, total population of NZ is only about 4 million, so that is a pretty small market. And Kiwis are inveterate Do It Yourselfers. (supposedly a Kiwi can fix anything with a piece of no.8 wire) There are indeed a lot of Dutchmen here. The bulk of them came after the second world war. I came here 25 years ago, chasing a kiwi skirt... And there are lots of Dutchmen everywhere, including the US. Hey: New York used to be "New Amsterdam" you know... Marcel: My *real* name is actually Peter. (not that I mind a helluva lot.. Now for some more questions: I went and saw my fire brick supplier about the type of bricks I am getting. They are 9" X 4.5" X 3" with about 37% Alumina content, so should be good, from a thermal point of view. He suggested I shouldn't be using refractory mortar between the bricks, but rather refractory concrete ("castable"). He reckons mortar is only good for gaps between bricks of a 4-5 mm. (just over 1/4 inch) Because the bricks are going to angled on both the horizontal plane as well the vertical, the gaps will be (much) wider than that. Also he reckoned I would not be able to cut the bricks with a skill saw with a diamond blade, because they are way to hard. He would allow me to use his big industrial saw to cut them, but at a cost of $1.50 per cut... !!! (Dutchman getting very sensitive now Is it really that hard to cut firebricks? Anyway, I am going to be buying a grinder with a diamond blade, and see for myself... |
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#17
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It's easy to cut, but you WILL burn through the blades. We cut every brick more than we needed to trying to get better angles and even mounted on a wet saw (tile), we burned almost through one blade. Dry cuts will make SURE you burn though the blades and you will raise enought dust to make all the mortar you require... assuming you could collect it (we did from the water bath under the tile saw).
__________________ -- Tarik |
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#18
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| Everything is relative: firebricks are harder than common red brick to cut, but with modern sintered diamond blades, you can cut them easily. Fire brick is not nearly as hard as granite, say. There are a few basic ways to cut brick. The cheapest good way to do it is with a 7" tile saw, that works like a table saw with the blade running in a tank of water. This won't cut all the way through but you can make a second cut, or break the brick cleanly at the cut. The bad news is that this sort of saw throws up mud into your face. The good news is that they are really cheap. A ten inch masonry saw has a bigger blade and a more powerful motor. The blade is fixed above the work, which is carried on a rolling table underneath. It has a pump that keeps the blade wet. This saw can cut a brick in one pass. This is a professional machine that that can cut masonry all day. Some people dry cut bricks with a segmented dry blade in a skill saw. This seems bad for the lungs and the saw to me. There are also people who break the bricks with a wide chisel called a brick set. This is not a skill that I have ever been able to acquire, but that doesn't mean that it can't be done. Real refractory mortar is expensive (and nice to work with - I've used a brand called heat-stop here in the states). The pompeii instructions call for a fireclay-portland cement mixture, which seems to work fine - I think real refractory products don't have portland cement in them. Good luck with your project. |
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#19
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If I'd done the math for the horizontal curve of the dome, I would have been able to darn near dry fit everything. Instead, we ended up with a tight fit at the outside with gapping on the inside as the taper was too extreme. Quote:
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Regards,
__________________ -- Tarik |