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  #31  
Old 04-07-2008, 03:29 AM
Apprentice
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
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Default Cutting bricks technique

Today I started cutting bricks with my HF wet saw and I noticed that often the last corner of the brick would chip and because I want to use the cutting side to face the internal part of the oven I want them to be clean and clear. So I decided to cut only 1/2 inch the brick and then flip it over and finish the cut, it worked very well and all the bricks came out nice. I put some pictures so you can see.

pompei-oven-progress-carlo-chip1.jpg pompei-oven-progress-carlo-chip2.jpg pompei-oven-progress-carlo-chip3.jpg
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  #32  
Old 04-07-2008, 04:14 AM
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Default Re: Pompei oven progress from Carlo

I mostly used the cut side of the brick towards the interior as well - they were smoother than the original end of most of the bricks. In hindsight, it might be a bad idea. Apparently, the bricks have something of a glaze on the outside that makes the original face of the brick stronger than the newly exposed cut surface. I encourage comments from others on this as this is just derived from my readings.
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  #33  
Old 04-07-2008, 04:49 PM
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Default Re: Pompei oven progress from Carlo

Carlo, I'm posting this a bit late in the game, but I like the way you wired your hearth supports to the rebar. It seems like a good way to hold the forms in place against the concrete. I'm curious if there are any drawbacks to this, since the wire reaches the outer edge of the hearth, or is this a widely accepted method? And since the "o-ring" screws in the forms are now embedded in concrete, does that make it hard to remove the forms? Anyone?
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  #34  
Old 04-07-2008, 07:15 PM
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Smile Re: Pompei oven progress from Carlo

Quote:
Originally Posted by dbhansen View Post
Carlo, I'm posting this a bit late in the game, but I like the way you wired your hearth supports to the rebar. It seems like a good way to hold the forms in place against the concrete. I'm curious if there are any drawbacks to this, since the wire reaches the outer edge of the hearth, or is this a widely accepted method? And since the "o-ring" screws in the forms are now embedded in concrete, does that make it hard to remove the forms? Anyone?
dbhansen,
the nails were finish nails with no head so the forms came out very easily, I bended them insternally to make the o-ring. The planks were 1x6 so very soft. I needed just to trim the nails with the grinder after I removed the forms...just yesterday. I don't know if this is an accepted methodology, but I think it should also help to keep the slab all together...if not we'll see later
Carlo
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pompei-oven-progress-carlo-img_4260.jpg.jpg  
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Last edited by biondoli; 04-07-2008 at 07:22 PM.
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  #35  
Old 04-08-2008, 05:21 PM
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Default Re: Pompei oven progress from Carlo

Heart slab finished...starting the real work! hopefully the weather will cooperate...
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  #36  
Old 04-14-2008, 03:49 AM
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Default Floor

Nice today, 34 degree sunny and worked all day out.
Laied down the floor and started the first row.
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pompei-oven-progress-carlo-img_4426.jpg  pompei-oven-progress-carlo-img_4415.jpg  
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  #37  
Old 04-14-2008, 04:46 AM
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Default Re: Pompei oven progress from Carlo

Go Carlo, go! Good times comin'!
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  #38  
Old 04-14-2008, 02:43 PM
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Default cement and brick cuts powder?

I remember reading on some posts a while ago that portland cement has been mixed with the powder recuperated from the cut of the fire bricks.
Can I use it to mortar the dome? If so, are there suggested percentages? I'd like to use it as it should be a very good bonding heat resistant right? Thanks
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  #39  
Old 04-14-2008, 03:35 PM
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Default Re: Pompei oven progress from Carlo

My guess (a complete guess) is yes, you should be able to substitute the cuttings from the bricks for the sand in the mortar. You may have trouble getting enough for the 3 parts sand, one part cement, one part lime, one part fire clay mix.
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  #40  
Old 04-14-2008, 03:36 PM
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Default Re: Pompei oven progress from Carlo

You can make a workable mortar with fireclay, sand and portland (High Heat Mortar Primer), but if there's anyway you can afford proper refractory mortar, it makes for an easier build and better results.

I think cutting tray sludge would be too inconsistent and hard to work with as a fireclay substitute.
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