| Pizza Ovens | (800) 407-5119 | info@fornobravo.com | U.S. Price List |
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#21
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| Great job, Gulf! That's a lot of cuts to stay on bond the last three courses. Not too long til pizza now. |
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#22
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| Thanks GianniFocaccia, I read your build thread along with all the others recomended on http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f2/n...res-15133.html (A newbie’s survey of the Forno Bravo treasures hiding in the archives) I should have went back and looked at yours again on how to close up a dome. Now that's sharp. I agree with Karangi Dude "Pure Symmetry". I have been cutting arch bricks today and building another arch template for my vent transition or fireplace, which ever it turns out to be.
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#23
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I have knotched the bricks for the vent transition 1" by 1". I will set this arch roughly as the pic shows. It will leave approximately a 1/2" gap turning the corner of the inner arch. I intend to pack this gap on both sides with 3/4" ceramic rope insulation. [IMG] [/IMG]
__________________ To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Last edited by Gulf; 12-25-2011 at 06:13 PM. Reason: punctuation |
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#24
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| For the transition arches and chimney I have trimmed the CalSil so the flu/fireplace can rest on the 4"'s of vermicrete. ![]() It was threatening rain today so I could not get started on anything major in case I had to cover everything back up. I did a trial fit and layout to get an idea of where I was going with this. Ya'll with the autocad could do this without getting out of your chair. But what is the fun in that ![]() [IMG] [/IMG]I have a 36" fireplace damper laying around. To use it' I would have to take the side walls up as shown. (that would make a transition piece angling in either real steep or very tall) I found a 24" damper which I can get delivered for close to 100 bucks. For the 24" I would arch the sidewalls in to that point before leveling out. (either size means I will have to pour a larger 4" vermicrete base for it's foot print) I also have a couple of ideas about homemade dampers. But I want to find out what is behind Brickies' video before I decide. It's my last day off until newyears so I have a little time to decide. Saints are playin', I may get back at half time.
__________________ To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Last edited by Gulf; 12-26-2011 at 07:11 PM. |
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#25
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Either your entry arch is massive or you are useing small bricks and it gives it that illusion? I calc it to be about 600mm high if the bricks are full size....
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#26
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| The Saint's are ahead 21 to 10 at the half ![]() I got rained out around lunch time and had to cover every thing up. I looked around the shed and found a bucket of brick dust that I had cleaned out of the drip pan dfrom the HF saw which had been laying aroud drying for a couple of weeks.. [IMG] [/IMG]I found the screen that I use to seperate the cat turds from my sandpile and with the use of an old window screen, began to salvage some fireclay. EDIT: My recomendation for using this method to reclaim firecaly would be to alter the formula for home brew. A window screen will allow fine sand to filter thru. It will also allow sand sized firecaly to filter thru. After some experimentation, I adjusted my formula to 2-2-2 (2 parts sand/2 parts fireclay/2 parts mortor){Bricklaying mortor is roughly 1/2 portland and 1/2 lime with some additives related to type and brand}Just Say'n[IMG] [/IMG]IMG] Got 2 and 1/4 bags out of that 5 gallon bucket. [IMG] [/IMG]An added note: If I were screening brick dust for a living I would build a second screen out of 1/4" construction cloth and find a window screen made out of the old fashioned galvanized wire.
__________________ To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Last edited by Gulf; 01-21-2012 at 06:42 PM. Reason: Altering method |
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#27
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| Why would you want a damper? If it doesn't go up the stack, it will just go out the front. Looks great other than that.
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#28
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The arch shown wraps around the oven entry arch. My oven opening is approx. 20" wide by 12 1/2 " high. If the conversion chart I googled is right that would be 508mm wide and 317.5 high.About that damper. I am familiar with fireplace chimney dampers (throke stile). I have also seen the type damper (via internet only) that goes on top of the flu. I am interested in the design of the damper which you featured in the video. I assume that it is a sliding or knife valve so to speak. Could you explain and/or better yet offer a pic or two on how it works? Also, to quote Tscarborough: (Since this is on the same note) "Why would you want a damper? If it doesn't go up the stack, it will just go out the front?" I may be gettin barrell vaults mixed up with pompeii ovens. But, I think that I read a few posts where someone felt that the damper helped them tune their pompeii to the "sweet spot" where heat/smoke flowed up the chimney and not out the front conserving as much heat as possible for the warm up. I would like to incorporate a damper in with my pompeii oven if it is benificial. If not I would like to skip this step. Any and all recomendations are very welcomed.
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#29
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| Quote:
![]() Damn, it started out so simple, It was going to be a cob oven
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#30
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| Great idea. Only down side I can think of would be the extra reach needed to get pizzas in and out. If you had a removable damper you could hang bigger stuff down the chimney I once had a slow roasted leg of lamb cooked on a chain hung in chimney in Istanbul. |
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