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  #71  
Old 05-23-2014, 07:23 AM
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Default Re: Jim's Build for the Common Man

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Also, the water pump on my HF saw doesn’t hit the blade. The water gets there, but after it rolls off the brick, about ” away, which I think wears the blade down faster. Anyone have any luck redirecting the water? I tried widening the hole with a pin, but that didn’t help.
Because the pump is easily clogged i just used the garden hose with at nozzle directed to the blade of the saw. I put an in line ball valve mounted to the side of the saw. You could hold the nozzle or in my case a piece of plastic tubing where you want it with Zip ties or drill a hole where you want it in the spray cover over the blade, that way you can get as little or as much water as you want and just use the water from the house only when cutting. if you are worried about overflow tap in a tube to catch and divert the extra water away from your work area.
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  #72  
Old 05-23-2014, 08:26 AM
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Default Re: Jim's Build for the Common Man

To your saw question - Take the blade off the saw, and reach up under the hood. The water jet is a piece of copper pipe that probably got knocked askew. Just bend it/re-aim it so it hits the blade.
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  #73  
Old 05-23-2014, 12:49 PM
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Default Re: Jim's Build for the Common Man

I had the same problems with my HF saw. On numerous occasions I submersed my pump in a sink full of warm water and ran it for awhile. Each time this helped. I also took a piece of flexible wire and ran it up into the jet. This also accelerated the water pressure of the jet.

Regarding compensating for your dreaded droop, extending bricks into the dome on higher arch courses will not present any problems. Virtually all of the arch thrust is vertical. Any small portion of the inward-extended bricks will be supported by the dome in a strong, cohesive init. Of course, instead of adding another course, you can make it up in mortar over the course (!) of several courses. Ha! Really, I wouldn't worry about it much.
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  #74  
Old 05-29-2014, 08:01 PM
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Default Re: Jim's Build for the Common Man

Building the inner arch- can anyone help me understand how to determine the angle of the slope to cut into the arch bricks to accomodate the dome bricks? I thought I had it figured out by holding a string to the dome center, then extending to the arch bricks. But this doesn't seem quite right in practice. Should I post pics to illustrate my quandry?
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Old 05-30-2014, 04:51 AM
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Default Re: Jim's Build for the Common Man

Put a mark or knot in the string where the inner radius of the dome is. (A) This will help you with the shape of the arch brick for the cut that goes from the arch opening to the point on the arch brick. Put another knot or mark on the string at the outer radius of the dome. (B) This mark will set the angle for the top of the pointed part of the arch brick (the area that contacts the dome bricks for the next layer.

When getting the position for the bottom cut, you can see that the (b) location is insignificant. But both A and B are important for the top cut. And the B position determines the top cut, the A positions determine the inner surface of the dome, and the related lower or inner cut angle.

See the drawing it might help.
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Last edited by mrchipster; 05-30-2014 at 05:00 AM. Reason: Additional description.
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  #76  
Old 05-30-2014, 03:22 PM
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Default Re: Jim's Build for the Common Man

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Building the inner arch- can anyone help me understand how to determine the angle of the slope to cut into the arch bricks to accommodate the dome bricks?
Jim,

It's easy. I made two identical wood templates of the interior dome profile I wanted. The first one I used periodically to keep each course consistent with the profile. The second one I cut vertically to account for the vertical inner arch.

At the center of my inner arch form, I laid a full firebrick. For lack of a better term, I call this brick my TDC (top dead center) brick. Then I took my trimmed dome template, placed it against the top of the 7th course and made a mark (A). You can't see it very well, but it has an arrow pointed at it. I used this mark to determine the red line (B), which extends from the floor center of the dome past the face of the inner arch. This would ensure that the top of the course immediately above the inner arch would stay level all around. I think this is the angle you asked about.

The last angle was simple: just match the curvature of the template to end up with an inner-facing (down) brick angle that matches the rest of the dome on that course.

I hope this explains it. If you have more questions, just holler.

John

You can find more images here (post #34)

http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/8/octoforno-7122-4.html (OctoForno)
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Jim's Build for the Common Man-arch-angle.jpg   Jim's Build for the Common Man-inner-arch-template-side.jpg   Jim's Build for the Common Man-interior-arch-mark.jpg  

Last edited by GianniFocaccia; 05-30-2014 at 03:46 PM. Reason: changed a few words
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  #77  
Old 06-01-2014, 07:26 PM
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Default Re: Jim's Build for the Common Man

I think I got it. So are the arch bricks Identical? I thought from other builds I saw that the angle cut for the dome bricks to rest on top changes. If not, that sure would make it simpler.
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  #78  
Old 06-01-2014, 07:40 PM
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Default Re: Jim's Build for the Common Man

Changes with each Buick from memory
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  #79  
Old 06-01-2014, 07:51 PM
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Changes with each Buick from memory
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Old 06-02-2014, 06:11 AM
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Default Re: Jim's Build for the Common Man

It is the orientation of the plane of the angles that changes from each brick from the TDC (Top Dead Center brick) as you move down either side of the arch, your IT can help you mark the orientation of the plane rotation as it moves down the arch. Notice how one side of plane on a brick may be higher or lower than the opposite side. But the "slope" angle from the IT remains constant, just rotates.
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