Do I really need an insulated door?

[Les]

Originally Posted by texassourdough

Hi Les!

The one factor you fail to mention is that in Carson City your daytime temps can be 242 degrees F! (Okay, I am exaggerating, but...) )

Actually I am impressed by your profile but I suspect your oven is also dryer than most. Mine gets close in a drought but...not when it is wet!

Thanks for putting up the profile!

I checked out the weather for that day. The low was 36 deg and the high was 69, mean temp was 55.5. Sounds about right for April - this year I was probably shoveling snow.

[Neil2]

George

Since you have a beveled entryway, you may want to consider a door similar to this. It is a piece of thick aluminum about the thickness used on road signs (in fact, mine stared out life as a "DO NOT ENTER" sign). The ends are bent back at the same angle as the entry way bevel so it fits snugly and, as a bonus , is free standing. I pop riveted on a bit of aluminum channel from a recent soffet job and backed it with 1/2 inch insulation salvaged from an old stove. The handle is a wooden marshal town handle with "stand off" mounting to prevent it from catching fire. Also add an recycled barbecue temperature gauge.

I have been using it for a number of years and it works great. The whole thing weighs 2 lbs 15 oz.

[SCChris]

What materials is it made of? It looks like copper on the inside with aluminum out and maybe something sandwiched in between. It doesn't look too heavy.. Tell us more George..

C

[Dino_Pizza]

Great info on this thread Chris.

Regarding the aluminum tape: I've seen high heat aluminum tape at Pep Boys. I think they use it for mufflers. I was going to buy some to see how it works.

I do like Neils door too, something to think about.

I too am going to try to sandwitch 2-3" of left over FB blanket into a 1.5" or 2" metal door, with 1.5" or 2" bolts between them (don't know the mechanical-tool-guy term ) so the 2 pieces of metal are rigid and apart from each other. Then bolt a wood door to the outer metal.

What to do about the side and top edge: I was going to use fireplace mortar with aluminum tape to enclose the fiber blanket (don't want that stuff exposed).

I also am toying with this idea:


I've seen something called a "seamer" online that was 3" wide and 1.5" deep that should bend the 24 gauge stuff you buy at Lowes or HD. After bending the 2" "TABS" over the top of the door, I thought of high-heat fireplace/flue glue in a tube to close up the seems (I don't do welding or cake decorating)

If others have tried it or something obviously wont work, let me know, I have more sketchup time than brains. -Dino

[wlively]

No reason to overthink this door thing. Simple is usually best. Unless, of course you want to build a metal masterpiece.

I think if you want metal on the hot face the thinner the better as the less mass to heat and transfer temp.

Foil works fine, even aluminum (for 20+ months anyway ). When I need to replace my foil I will go with stainless foil, but that is about all I would change with mine. I have 3 screws embedded in the perlcrete, they don't conduct any appreciable heat since they are insulated inside the perlcrete.

For those concerned with weight, I just weighed the door at 14.5 lbs.

[SCChris]

Hey Dino, Thank FX for the thread. I'm wondering if what might be cool would be a thread dedicated to mug shots of doors.
50 words or less.

Door in place
Oven entry
Inside door surface
Outside door surface
Side door surface

Mine would look like this.

My current door is a 22” inch wide piece of 2” thick Calcium Silicate rigid insulation board.

The arch was cut using a band saw with a standard wood blade. The insulating board was attached to a swing arm and the distance to the blade set to the radius of the arch.

The oven entry has a 1 inch by 1 inch rebate cut into the brick to accept the door.

Chris

[fxpose]

Originally Posted by Neil2

George

Since you have a beveled entryway, you may want to consider a door similar to this. It is a piece of thick aluminum about the thickness used on road signs (in fact, mine stared out life as a "DO NOT ENTER" sign). The ends are bent back at the same angle as the entry way bevel so it fits snugly and, as a bonus , is free standing. I pop riveted on a bit of aluminum channel from a recent soffet job and backed it with 1/2 inch insulation salvaged from an old stove. The handle is a wooden marshal town handle with "stand off" mounting to prevent it from catching fire. Also add an recycled barbecue temperature gauge.

I have been using it for a number of years and it works great. The whole thing weighs 2 lbs 15 oz.

Thanks Neil, I think I'm going to make something similar to yours. It is the most practical shape for the style of entry I have. Except for the handle, I have most materials already on hand.
This will be Thursday's project.

George

[Grimaldi]

Here is my 1st attempt at doors. The inner door is just a slab of pecan (I mentioned using mesquite but didn't have a piece big enough). The outer door is a piece of plate (no insulation)...the air vent on the bottom can be adjusted using a brick to block part of the opening ;] The handles are scrap rebar and the wood is from the cutoff of a too long handle on the turning peel.