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#11
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| Dino - wait until you make the millionth trip up and down the ladder. It got the attention of some leg muscles I didn't even know I had. Les...
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#12
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| Dino, Yes it is addicting. Its amazing the things you will skip to work on the WFO. I'm working on it every spare (and some not spare) minute. I was the same way a couple years ago when building my wine cellar. The finished product is worth all the time and work! Mark |
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#13
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| I'd sure like to see pictures of the wine cellar. Do you have any posted anywhere? Larry |
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#14
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| Larry, I'll post a couple on my thread "Marks WFO" Mark |
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#15
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| Hew... what a productive day. Took a vacation day off and I've dry-stacked my base today. A couple trips to Home Depot and find one that had 8x8x16 Bond Beam blocks for $.91 and I think it's a good way to tie every thing together at the top. The HF 10" saw was great at cutting the block sides on the bond beam blocks. I can't wait to start cutting the fire bricks! Could someone tell me what I'm suppose to do with the 4 blocks across the front angle iron header? It's open below it (I'm pointing at it in the pic below). Am I suppose to block it up and pour concrete across there too or am I suppose put steel and cement in all other blocks except that? What would I block it with if I'm suppose to fill it with concrete? Thanks, everyone, Dino
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#16
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| Dino, I see where it looks like you already cut and installed the angle iron. I tried a different approach using bond beam blocks. I installed them upsides down and placed rebar so that it ran up inside the side blocks across the bond beam blocks and down the opposite side. This made for the rebar (which is a tension member) nearer the bottom of the lintel (where the tension is). The rebar I tied up with tie wire so that it didn't sink to the bottom, not that it would since the legs (verticals that ran inside the outer blocks) ran all the way to the slab. I then simply blocked the open cells of the blocks with a piece of 2x8 cut to the proper width and length and used a layer of wax paper for a release film. I supported the 2 x 8 cut down with props at each end. It worked well, after all the span is very short. Since you already cut the blocks to accommodate the angle iron you could simply use the same blocking as I described. Looks like you had a busy day! I too divided the space below the hearth slab with a support wall and made it into two storage areas. Looking good! Wiley |
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#17
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| Dino, I had the same question when I put up my stand. I supported a board under the 4 block to close it off, then filled with concrete.
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#18
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| Dino, Use some scrap wood and prop up a piece on the underside (to block the holes) and fill it all with concrete. Knock out the wood after its sets up a couple of days. RT |
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#19
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| The board idea looks good to me. I like the divided area in the stand, too. If you are placing your slab on top of the blocks you can still choose to eliminate those blocks and span the opening with the rebar reinforced slab. I made lintels using some full size specialty blocks that were on sale at the local brickyard (.50 cents each). The counterman said they were for running electrical conduit inside block walls - so they had slots already cut in them lengthwise for conduit. I decided to build the units separately and install them later. Figured setting them upside down on the ground and pouring concrete into the holes was easier. So I placed them end to end, cut them to length, filled them with concrete and inserted a piece angle iron. Did it at the same time I filled the cores on the block stand so it did not cost me an extra day. Lifting them in place was a bit tough. I like the board idea much better. Christo
__________________ My oven progress - To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Last edited by christo; 01-10-2009 at 06:55 AM. |
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#20
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| Dino, I really, REALLY like your stand design. The dual opening with the opening on the side is genius. Would have been perfect for my application. Oh well! ![]() For my front "angle iron" blocks, I stuffed them half full of concrete bags and drizzled concrete in them. Once it set, I didn't have to worry about the heavy slab concrete oozing out the bottom. http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f21/...html#post13845 (My Old Kentucky Dome) (post #7, third picture). It was a super easy and fast solution. Once the bags are removed from the bottom, there will be a small open area in each core, but no one (including you) will ever see it once it's finished out.
__________________ Ken H. - Louisville, KY 42" Pompeii To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Updated! To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. ... To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. ... To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. |
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