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  #61  
Old 08-22-2011, 01:56 PM
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Default Re: Continued Design Ideas

Normally you adhere the veneer with corrugated brick ties laid in the joints of the cmu.

Coursing may or may not be an issue, it depends upon the brick. In the typical 4 CMU high base, no mortar joints means you lose 12/8ths (1-1/2") If using a modular brick, you have 11 or 12 joints to make it up, IF you need to keep it coursed. Normally you don't, because you are pouring the base and thus can (and usually should) bring the brick up to finished floor (of the base), not the top of the CMU.

I would not recommend dry stack CMU unless you are stuccoing the base, as it needs the stucco for strength anyway. Normally it is call surface bonded CMU, FYI.
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  #62  
Old 09-08-2011, 12:33 PM
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Location: 12 minutes from Snowbird UT
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Default Re: Continued Design Ideas

Do I need to maintain a 1" air space between block and brick or can I lay the bricks against the block with some mortar to help them stick. Of course, I'd still use the brick tie. From what I've read, the air space is to help drain off moisture and to allow space for insulation, neither of which really apply.
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  #63  
Old 09-08-2011, 01:54 PM
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Default Re: Continued Design Ideas

You do not need the airspace, but if you don't leave a little gap you will have a hard time getting your wall flush and plumb.
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  #64  
Old 09-30-2011, 06:02 PM
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Default Re: Continued Design Ideas

I'm close to starting my build but have one lingering question that I can't decide upon; whether to build a foundation below frost line or to go with a slab on grade. Our frost line is two feet.

My neighbor the professional builder said that for something small like the oven a slab on grade should be fine given that the soil here is quite sandy and well drained. My father in law who lives nearby said he would for sure build the foundation. It seems the concensus on the forum is for a slab.

I was leaning toward slab but decided to test the soil and had to dig down through ten inches of garden soil and then another foot of quite loose sand to find undisturbed soil (hard compacted sand and some clay). So my first question: Can I build up and compact the soil good enough to do a slab? What would be the best way to do that?

My second question: I've collected 40 6x8x16 CMU blocks, 20 10x3x16 concrete slabs, 53 10x8x16 blocks and 18 80lb bags of conc mix (all free of course). If I dig down to the undisturbed soil, lay the concrete slabs and build a two course CMU wall on top of them and fill the hole with good compacted soil and six inches of gravel at the top, can I pour my slab over that? Would that be better than just a slab?

Thanks, Craig
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  #65  
Old 09-30-2011, 06:07 PM
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Default Re: Continued Design Ideas

Yes, that sounds like the most reasonable use of the resources at hand.
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  #66  
Old 09-30-2011, 06:55 PM
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Default Re: Continued Design Ideas

Quote:
Originally Posted by clofgreen View Post

My second question: I've collected 40 6x8x16 CMU blocks, 20 10x3x16 concrete slabs, 53 10x8x16 blocks and 18 80lb bags of conc mix (all free of course). If I dig down to the undisturbed soil, lay the concrete slabs and build a two course CMU wall on top of them and fill the hole with good compacted soil and six inches of gravel at the top, can I pour my slab over that? Would that be better than just a slab?
I would go to HD and get 3 or 4 - 8 inch concrete tubes they come in 4 ft lengths, dig 6 - 8 holes cut the tubes in half and evenly disburse them under the future slab. Run some #4 - 1/2 inch rebar down into the tubes before your pour.

That will give you lots of below frost line support. and not cost much. and it is relatively easy to dig an 8 inch - 2 ft deep hole. We have to go 52 inches here in Minnesota.

BTW I am jealous, I need to get on a plane to ski Snowbird, Alta, Solitude, Brighton, Park City, Canyons, and Deer Valley.

Chip

Last edited by mrchipster; 09-30-2011 at 06:57 PM.
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  #67  
Old 09-30-2011, 07:12 PM
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Default Re: Continued Design Ideas

If it's not taller than you are, or part of an existing structure like a house, a slab on well drained gravel is fine. Personal opinion: I think sonotube protrusions under a slab just give the ice lenses something to grab onto. Sonotubes should have footings like any other type of foundation.
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  #68  
Old 09-30-2011, 07:52 PM
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Default Re: Continued Design Ideas

Craig,

I went the slab on grade route. Ours is at least 6 inches and we went overboard with the rebar. We used what rebar we had around, 1/2 and 5/8. we also placed some 5 or so inch square fencing material in the mix, suspending it in the slab. Almost 2 winters and no heaving, cracks, or anything.

Derk
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  #69  
Old 10-03-2011, 04:20 PM
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Default Re: Continued Design Ideas

Once again thanks for the good advice. After talking to a structural engineer friend I've decided to build a foundation. One of the original reasons for wanting a WFO was for emergencies. Utah is overdo for an earthquake and I live just a few miles from a major fault so building it on the beefy side wouldn't hurt.
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  #70  
Old 10-03-2011, 06:00 PM
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Default Re: Continued Design Ideas

Quote:
Originally Posted by clofgreen View Post
Once again thanks for the good advice. After talking to a structural engineer friend I've decided to build a foundation. One of the original reasons for wanting a WFO was for emergencies. Utah is overdo for an earthquake and I live just a few miles from a major fault so building it on the beefy side wouldn't hurt.
I am not a structual engineer, but wouldn't the foundation connect the earthquake tremors to the oven structure. The "floating slab" would be a better anti-earthquake remedy. Just a thought....
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