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  #11  
Old 04-18-2011, 09:20 AM
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Default Re: Cheesesteak's WFO build - Take Two.

Okay - I've got the stand ready for concrete - will hopefully be delivered tomorrow.



I also ended up picking up the HF saw. it's easy to locate a printable coupon for 20% online - just google "Habor Freight coupon" and you'll find it. You can also enter "20tool" to get the 20% discount at the online store.

I order my insulating boards from the online FB store - as well as the 3 insulating blankets. Should be here this week.
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  #12  
Old 04-20-2011, 09:44 AM
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Default Re: Cheesesteak's WFO build - Take Two.

okay - I poured the concrete yesterday. I filled all the voids - and poured the reinforced 4" shelf. The front arch was formed, reinforced, and poured too.



It took 1.25 yards (I had around a 5-gallon bucket left). I opted for the trailer / ready mix supply. It would have been 43 80-pound bags of concrete. At $3.15/bag here at my local big-box, that's $135.45 plus tax - or just under $150. I could have had a concrete delivery - it would have run me around $225-250 (maybe more because of the time it would have been there). The trailer loads ran me a total of $150 - and I didn't have to mix anything - same price as bagged concrete.

I didn't bother to trowel the shelf to perfection - no one's going to see it. It's level - and certainly good enough. Frankly, I don't get why people spend so much time finishing the shelf that gets completely covered - but oh well . . .

Another thing I really don't get is why people go to such great lengths to try to prevent the outer forms from "bowing." There's almost no outward pressure on those boards. If your concrete mix is anything close to correct - there should be very little pressure on the sides of the forms. My 2x4 supports were to hold up the 2x6s to the correct height for a true 4" slab - and that's it. They didn't bulge at all. I also used Wonderboard for the floor of the shelf - so I can just leave it there (4 1/2" slab total). My last oven - I wrestled with getting the wood off the bottom of the shelf - time I don't want to waste this time around.

My FB insulating boards and blankets arrived yesterday. I'm going to assemble my saw tonight and start cutting bricks tomorrow after work.

My plan is to only cut the sides of the bricks for mitering - not tops and bottoms. I think I recall a 5 deg angle being appropriate for the first several rows - does that sound correct? I also think I'm going to build the dome on top of the floor - and not bother with cutting the floor to fit inside. I've searched and have yet to read anything that would really justify the time to cut the bricks in a circular shape. Spalling is the potential concern - and if it happens on the usable cooking surface - chances are it'll be a brick that accessible the way I plan on doing it anyway. Fingers crossed.
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  #13  
Old 04-20-2011, 10:03 AM
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Default Re: Cheesesteak's WFO build - Take Two.

You are right about the surface - a simple screed will work in most cases. I had to trowel mine because I was laying tile on part of the surface. In regard to the floor, you are spot on there as well. I cut mine and there really is no need to do it. If a brick does spall under the dome, whats the harm? Thats where the fire will be anyways. And when I do bake, the food is never pushed against the sides. Looking good!
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  #14  
Old 04-20-2011, 11:50 AM
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Default Re: Cheesesteak's WFO build - Take Two.

Looking good Cheesteak!!

Wow, you're on to WFO #2! I'm just trying to complete my 1st one!! Keep the pics coming. And great start by the way!

aceves
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  #15  
Old 04-24-2011, 10:33 AM
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Default Re: Cheesesteak's WFO build - Take Two.

It's raining today in Northern California - what's up with that? It's supposed to be sunny from April to October. I had to run and get the Easy-Up to cover the boards before everything got too wet . . .

Anyway - concrete is curing - and I decided to cut the fiberboards and layout the floor. After cutting the boards - I realized how much of a health hazard those things can be. Out of the box - if in perfect shape - they appear to be pretty sturdy. Bang a corner - or cut them - and they release a tremendous amount of fibers / dust. same is true from just dragging the boards across the concrete shelf. I did wear the appropriate safety gear (mask and gloves) when working with the boards.

So - I decided to place a thin layer of #30 sand beneath the boards and then coat them with a very thin layer of #30 sand / fireclay with a bit of portland mixed in to hold it together while I build. While they probably don't pose a long-term health risk with the oven - I wanted to be sure the particles didn't mobilize when I build and I just wanted to seal them. Better to be safe . . . should be standard practice to seal these boards.



It was just like icing a big cake. I'll put another troweled layer of fireclay and sand to set the floor later this week.

I also drove by the Gladding McBean mill on my way to my son's baseball tournament over the weekend - thought I'd grab a picture for some to see. Gladding McBean supplies the fireclay that HC Muddox uses in its Mortar Clay and for other uses (some on here have HC Muddox fire brick as well). You can see the piles of white fireclay in both pictures. Mounds of it all around . . .





HC Muddox is down the road from me as well - I'll try to gran some pics when I go there for some of their firebrick seconds . . .

Last edited by Cheesesteak; 04-24-2011 at 10:44 AM.
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  #16  
Old 04-29-2011, 06:33 PM
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Default Re: Cheesesteak's WFO build - Take Two.

Well - got a bit more done on the oven today. I was going to go to HC Muddox for some "seconds" only to call and learn that they no longer sell seconds . . . ugh.

Anyway - I headed to my local brick supplier, picked up a bunch more firebrick, and finished up the hearth. I was surprised at how "imperfect" the bricks were. I dusted s fireclay/sand mixture into some of the bigger gaps and wet it down a bit. The wind is a bother today - steady at 25mph, gusting much higher. It's not conducive to working with find sand and clay - more blew away that made it on the floor.



I also broke out the HF saw and started to cut bricks in half in preparation for the first couple of chains. Of course - I had to stack them in the rough location of the dome to keep myself motivated and feel like I'm getting something done.


I'll finalize my template for the floor tomorrow - maybe try to set the first chain. Who knows . . . .
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  #17  
Old 04-30-2011, 05:05 PM
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Default Re: Cheesesteak's WFO build - Take Two.

Okay - trying to lay out the arch. I'm going to bevel the bricks - bu wanted to see where I was. Using the good 'ol string - the dome will hit the top ofthe arch.

I'm trying to figure out a good way to leave a reveal. I'm thinking of building two arch diameters. One is my 19" wide x 12" high for the oven opening - and the other will be a 21" wide x 13" high to give me a 1" reveal for a door.

Lookie here:

Does that look right? Any problems that anyone can see?????
Still dealing with 30mph winds today - ugh.
Thanks.

Last edited by Cheesesteak; 04-30-2011 at 05:11 PM.
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  #18  
Old 04-30-2011, 08:39 PM
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Default Re: Cheesesteak's WFO build - Take Two.

Hi Cheesesteak,

Yes, I see you need shims under the arch form. Cut hand holds into the front of your form to make it easier to handle and remove.

Did you plan on using a keystone in the arch?

All the best,
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  #19  
Old 04-30-2011, 08:46 PM
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Default Re: Cheesesteak's WFO build - Take Two.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheesesteak View Post

I'm trying to figure out a good way to leave a reveal.
Just notch the brick and build one arch with a reveal. #6 here http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f8/s...ntry-2635.html (Second coarse and entry)
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Last edited by Les; 04-30-2011 at 08:50 PM.
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  #20  
Old 04-30-2011, 09:45 PM
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Default Re: Cheesesteak's WFO build - Take Two.

Quote:
Originally Posted by azpizzanut View Post
. Cut hand holds into the front of your form to make it easier to handle and remove.
Also pack the form up on some shims 5, 10 or 20mm doesnt matter.
When finished and dried without the shims the arch form will be very hard to remove, the shims will just wiggle out making the form just drop out.
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