#21  
Old 11-01-2013, 03:37 PM
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Default Re: 40" corner build in central TX

Thanks for the suggestion, Mirassou, but that ship's already sailed. I'm going to have a fair bit of detail work to do to get the floor clean and I'll probably re-level the center 4 bricks, as having the one out in the middle has allowed them to shift a bit.

@EricU, That's the plan!

I got another 30 bricks today which should get the dome, arch, and chimney base done and hopefully the former this weekend!
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  #22  
Old 11-02-2013, 10:25 PM
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Default Re: 40" corner build in central TX

I got the arch all tied in today and half of course 9 done, I'm really hoping to get the dome closed tomorrow

I cut a rabbet in the center brick to get rid of the step in the arch/dome joint. there is a small triangle left on either side of the center brick, but I'll either grind it out or fill it with something if it bothers me too much.

In hindsight I should've cut the center brick in row 7 down, as I had to grind about half the brick off, which broke the mortar loose. that would'nt normally be a problem, but it's keyed in, so I had to wiggle it around to get the old set mortar out and re-mortar it in there. I still have a bit of grinding to do on the center brick on the bottom, but I'm going to wait until it's well-cured(end of day tomorrow, maybe) to get after that.

The three full-size bricks distorted the circle a little bit, but I think I'll be back in round and level after course 9.
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40" corner build in central TX-2013-11-02-11.55.19.jpg   40" corner build in central TX-2013-11-02-11.55.45.jpg   40" corner build in central TX-2013-11-02-11.57.27.jpg   40" corner build in central TX-2013-11-02-19.31.46.jpg   40" corner build in central TX-2013-11-02-19.32.14.jpg  

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  #23  
Old 11-03-2013, 03:33 AM
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Default Re: 40" corner build in central TX

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Originally Posted by ogorir View Post

......The three full-size bricks distorted the circle a little bit, but I think I'll be back in round and level after course 9.
That's right, gain a little back each course.

Asymmetry causes panic in a lot of builds, but it's no big deal. Personally, I think coming out of round is more apt to happen using that centering tool, because it is relied upon and you get disconnected to the work....but that's just my opinion.


I don't think I have ever seen an oven opening arch laid as shiners with a back arch. That is some creative transitioning too...are you a carpenter by trade?
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  #24  
Old 11-03-2013, 10:57 AM
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Default Re: 40" corner build in central TX

The way I look at it, it doesn't really matter how it comes out, as long it gets done, it will cook a pizza

I do agree that the IT makes things look worse... courses 3-5 look pretty nice and went up quick. I was just using the IT to make a quick check and wasn't trying to force anything to conform. I started using the IT more at course 6 as I was closing the dome a bit too fast(probably would've been 19.5" if I'd let it go) and it definitely doesn't look as nice inside.
Personally, I needed the IT for the first few courses to wrap my head around the required angles, etc. I was misinterpreting info from different spread sheets at first, and as a result my slope angle was way less than it needed to be, so I made an IT and pulled the bricks out and re-did them. what I came to realize is the slope angle is the same between courses, so once I got a feel for how big the gap at the outside of the brick should be, I just went with it. now that I know that, I probably wouldn't do an IT again.

I've noticed that if I can get my bricks placed 'perfectly' in the first 2 seconds, they won't slide, even on course 9. If I have to move them after that, then they want to droop about 3/16" down from where I want them, which for that, the IT is pretty handy. The moral, of course, is don't screw them up in the first place!

Something I've found that helps me achieve this is 'priming' the vertical face of the brick you're butting up to with a thin layer of mortar. Then I don't have to wiggle the new brick to get the mortar to coat that brick. I set the horizontal inside edge of the new brick on the edge of the previous course, snug the vertical inside edge up to the previous brick, then shimmy the brick over and down until it lines up and check the slope with the angle gauge. *usually* I can get this done without breaking the initial set, which happens with the really thin section of mortar on the inside 1/2" of the horizontal brick. If the bricks aren't sopping wet, that section sets within 2 seconds, hence no droop. if you break that whilst arranging, the brick wants to droop because it seems once the mortar is over 1/8", it takes a significantly longer time to set.

Currently, I'm letting my hands dry out so I can superglue the end of my right middle finger where I wore through the skin. again. Course 9 is done and I cleaned the dome floor and cleaned up some errant mortar on the inside of the dome. I'll still have to clean the joints between the floor bricks, but I still have a bit more grinding to do, so this is by no means the last cleaning. that said, I did take roughly a gallon of brick dust out from the floor and arch entry.

Stonecutter, I can see why you might think carpenter, as what I did resembles a window header and rafters, respectively, but no, I'm in automotive. I grew up doing restorations working for my dad, now I refurb fleet vehicles at a dealer. I wound up doing the arch that way mostly because it's really difficult to cut bricks on the wide dimension (like the arch corners) with a 10" saw. Also, the center section of the tudor arch is so close to a straight line on an arch this size that it goes beyond my masonry skills to create the arch, so I opted for this way
All the stuff on the arch tie-in was the result of me not wanting to think about it and winging it until I got there. I'm sure there's a better solution, but I'm not afraid of a grinder, so that's what I came up with.

It's still looking possible that I could be done today, as well
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  #25  
Old 11-03-2013, 03:06 PM
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Default Re: 40" corner build in central TX

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Originally Posted by stonecutter View Post
That's right, gain a little back each course.

Asymmetry causes panic in a lot of builds, but it's no big deal. Personally, I think coming out of round is more apt to happen using that centering tool, because it is relied upon and you get disconnected to the work....but that's just my opinion.
I hear you there. I think I relied altogether too much on the IT, rather than my eyes. The IT definitely helped me on this first build, but I had alot of issues.
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  #26  
Old 11-03-2013, 03:25 PM
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Default Re: 40" corner build in central TX

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Something I've found that helps me achieve this is 'priming' the vertical face of the brick you're butting up to with a thin layer of mortar.
FYI, 'priming' is called Burning in masonry nomenclature.
Currently, I'm letting my hands dry out so I can superglue the end of my right middle finger where I wore through the skin. again. Course 9 is done and I cleaned the dome floor and cleaned up some errant mortar on the inside of the dome. I'll still have to clean the joints between the floor bricks, but I still have a bit more grinding to do, so this is by no means the last cleaning. that said, I did take roughly a gallon of brick dust out from the floor and arch entry.
Atlas gloves are probably the best gloves I have ever used for masonry work.....when I wear gloves. They come in a summer and winter weight, are hard wearing but allow dexterity so you don't feel out of touch with your tools.
Stonecutter, I can see why you might think carpenter, as what I did resembles a window header and rafters, respectively, but no, I'm in automotive.
I don't often hear terms being used like rabbet outside of carpentry...it was a tip off that you are currently or had been working with wood.
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  #27  
Old 11-03-2013, 04:11 PM
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Default Re: 40" corner build in central TX

Get yourself a box of surgical gloves and powder
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  #28  
Old 11-03-2013, 05:48 PM
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Default Re: 40" corner build in central TX

clean build, keep up the great work
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  #29  
Old 11-04-2013, 05:31 AM
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Default Re: 40" corner build in central TX

@stonecutter Ah! I forgot I used that term. I also grew up watching this old house, new yankee workshop, and wood whisperer on PBS. I attempt a wooden project once in a while, and while I really enjoy working in wood, I need to spend a lot more time at it to consider myself 'proficient.'

I definitely failed at closing the dome yesterday. I got 1/2 of course 11 set before yoga(cut and sent in 45 minutes, no less!), but my fingers were not having any more brick work. It's humbling to know that my formidable callouses can be bested in a week! The super glue worked, for a while, but the constant wet hands wore it off. duct tape worked, save for the obvious lack of sensitivity.

@ mirassou a glove would be nice... I've never used a true surgical glove, are they WAY more abrasion/cut resistant? I've used ,any latex and nitrile exam/mechanics rubber gloves and I always wind up shredding them.
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Old 11-04-2013, 05:35 AM
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Default Re: 40" corner build in central TX

Hi Ogorir, I use the latex ones. A couple of pairs last through the day. They're not abrasion or cut resistant, but the saw is cutting the bricks
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