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  #41  
Old 09-27-2012, 06:56 PM
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Default Re: 36" Pompeii in DC

rs,

I noticed on your floor layout, you could use some of the larger cutoff on some of the smaller segments, ie 4 and 24, save you a few bucks.
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  #42  
Old 09-28-2012, 06:25 AM
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Default Re: 36" Pompeii in DC

RS,

Which taper are you thinking is not worth the effort, the dome taper or the front of the arch taper? IMHO, you have the HF saw, which has the capacity to cut both, give it a go. The dome taper will make life easier as you start laying your courses. But in the end it is up to you. Good luck.
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  #43  
Old 09-28-2012, 06:33 AM
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Default Re: 36" Pompeii in DC

Russell: Neither, actually. Both of those tapers seem well worth it. I'm thinking of whether to taper the sides of the arch bricks (the sides where they touch, if that makes sense), which means cutting through the 4.5" dimension. I think GianniF tapered his arch bricks that way, while Amac did the same pentagonal design but didn't taper?

-Ryan
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  #44  
Old 09-28-2012, 06:46 AM
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Default Re: 36" Pompeii in DC

Ryan,

The inner arch will not be as visible as the outer arch and/or decorative arch, but you will be faced with the same question on those arches as well. Matter of choice. Here are a few pics of tapering arch for dome as well as front which I patterned after GF's build. Maybe this will help in decision making.
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36" Pompeii in DC-34a-inner-arch-6.18.12.jpg   36" Pompeii in DC-34b-inner-arch-6.18.12.jpg   36" Pompeii in DC-35a-inner-arch-6.19.12.jpg  
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  #45  
Old 09-28-2012, 07:34 PM
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Default Re: 36" Pompeii in DC

Started cutting my floor and arch bricks this evening. The HF saw is working great, for the most part, but for some reason the tray keeps getting stuck, such that I have to really push to get it unstuck and move it forward--even before the brick reaches the blade. Anyone know what might be causing it, or how I could fix it?
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  #46  
Old 09-29-2012, 04:33 AM
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Default Re: 36" Pompeii in DC

Fouling "before the brick gets to the blade" sounds like the guide rollers need adjusting. They may be too tight or have too much slack between them. They are located on the left side of your table and adjust to fit the left guide. The table should not be able to twist very much if they are adjusted right. I found hovever, that there does need to be some slack or the rollers will tend to bind at certain points. First, make sure that the rollers and guides are clean. You might also want to check to see if your guide table runs square with the blade while you are doing this. I use a 2' framing square for this. Place it firmly against the saws square cutting guide and just barely touching the blade. (Saw unplugged of course ) The square should not pull away from or jam into the blade when advancing the table. I haven't had to adjust my guide for square, but it is the left guide bar which is the adjustment for that. Hopefully, the previous owner included the little allen wrench set and the owners manual for you. If not, there is probably one already "pdf.ed" on here some where. Let us know if you need any help on this. It's not that hard to do.
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Last edited by Gulf; 09-29-2012 at 05:06 AM. Reason: clarification
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  #47  
Old 09-29-2012, 06:13 AM
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Default Re: 36" Pompeii in DC

RS,

In addition what Gulf said, the some of the rollers have a metric hex that threads into the body of the table with a rubber bushing. Check to see if they are adjusted properly, too tight roller won't turn, too loose table is wobbly. I dug this out of my files, here's a one pager on track and blade adjustment on HF saws.
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36" Pompeii in DC-settingsaw-1-.jpg  
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  #48  
Old 09-29-2012, 12:08 PM
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Default Re: 36" Pompeii in DC

When I tapered the sides of my arch bricks, I just took as much as I could get in one pass (turned out to be 3.75" of the 4.5" brick") and let the mortar joint be a little larger at the outside arc. If you choose to taper, a *dry cut* blade works better - you can run it wet for better life, and they tend to be thicker/stiffer so they don't deflect as much.
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  #49  
Old 09-30-2012, 03:53 PM
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Default Re: 36" Pompeii in DC

Well, I've made good progress this weekend. Got all my arch bricks cut--and tapered, as it happened (more on that in a moment). Also got my floor cut, saving four whole bricks thanks to Russell's suggestion to use cut-offs for the small bits.

Because of the pentagonal shape, the arch bricks were a pain in the neck to taper. By the time I'd cut one half of one side of all the bricks, and one half of the other side for half the bricks (that is, I hadn't turned any of them over to finish the cut yet), I was telling myself "There's no way I'd do this again. Even though I now need more arch bricks, I'll just leave those un-tapered, this is crazy!" Then after I finished the tapers and dry-stacked the ones I had cut, and saw how nicely they all stack together... Well, I ended up tapering them all, except for a couple of skinny pieces and what will probably be the keystone. This oven building stuff is insidious, I say!

I do think I will abstain from tapering the tops and bottoms of my dome bricks, however. Tight joints are alluring, and I greatly admire the ovens of the folks on here who have gone for the super-tight joints, sides, top and bottom. But from the experience on my arch, having to do a "flip it over" taper on all 250+ dome bricks would drive me batty! I think my "ease v.s. awesome" trade-off is going to fall on the side of "ease" in this category.

Although doing a partial cut taper like vtsteve suggests might be...uh oh, I'm doing it again!
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36" Pompeii in DC-img_6427.jpg   36" Pompeii in DC-img_6428.jpg  
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  #50  
Old 10-01-2012, 07:25 PM
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Default Re: 36" Pompeii in DC

Built my Indispensible Tool this evening, from a swiveling castor and some of the pile of scrap lumber I've accumulated in my garage . Removed the axel from the castor (which was only fasten on with a 10mm nut), then put it back in through a hole drilled in the wood. As an added bonus, if I tighten the bolt a bit, the arm won't be able to move up and down, allowing me to lock the tool vertically.

Need to get a bigger clamp to go with it, as all I have are two 6" bar clamps...

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