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  #211  
Old 09-17-2012, 03:28 PM
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Default Re: Starting new 36" build

DJ
Not real sure, so i hope you get some other responses, but i think you want a flexible break there because of the heavier, denser retaining wall and the thinner and separate counters and the different expansion that each will have in addition to the counters mounted to a different floor plane than the wall. Also, if the retaining wall heaves at all, you wouldn't want it to crack a pretty counter top. I like the idea of the stainless/aluminum rod or flat, though. That would look cool i think. Maybe put a form there that is just a little thicker than your metal piece and after the concrete is set, remove the form and back fill the gap with some self leveling concrete joint compound leaving room to place your steel in the top of the gap for reveal. Still thinking, too. Are you planning to incorporate the top of that retaining wall as part of the counters or leave as it is?
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  #212  
Old 09-17-2012, 03:48 PM
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Default Re: Starting new 36" build

^^^
Tracy -
that is an awesome idea to put a temporary form in place and then replace it with the metal. I had not thought of that! I can put some plastic or something in there as a form and yank it out when the concrete is set. that also solves my concern with potentially sanding the metal if it is already in place.

As for the retaining wall, I guess it is kind of a backsplash, but it really only sticks up about an inch over the countertop
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  #213  
Old 09-17-2012, 10:46 PM
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Default Re: Starting new 36" build

I assume the base cabinets (metal studs) are attached to the wall and the counters will essentially float? Or will they be bonded somehow to the base? I think there shouldn't be a risk of cracking since the counters will not be locked in by anything. The joint at the back may open up with time though even with the metal bar in there. Making that joint look good is a challenge. As for a temporary form, it would have to be super slick to be able to snake it out of there without making a mess of the edge. The problem would be how to get a grip on it. But then again maybe it would come right out. I poured some sidewalk stepping stones once with 2x4's ripped with a slight bevel to separate them. After the pour I ran screws part way in and used a block of wood and crow bar to pry the 2x4's up and out. Some of them came out in pieces but they eventually all came out. In your case you would probably use something much thinner, but you still could use the screw and crow bar to get a purchase and ease them out. You're still gonna have to calk or grout the metal strip in place and that could get messy. You could coat the wall and just pour right up to it so there would be hair line crack there. If it's at the bottom of the bevel there's already a visual line there anyway. For leveling the pour you could make a screed with an extension that runs along the top of the wall. It's that old devil in the details again, but whatever you decide to do after it's done you won't look back and it will be fine! Whew, not bad for a quiet guy!
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  #214  
Old 09-17-2012, 11:12 PM
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Default Re: Starting new 36" build

here is a picture of the back corner of the form, so you can see how it meets the wall:

Starting new 36" build-wp_000111.jpg

The top of the form is just under the edge of the bevel
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  #215  
Old 09-18-2012, 07:22 AM
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Default Re: Starting new 36" build

something else that would cause you more work: a brick/stone veneer on the top and end of that retaining wall with a lip to cover that counter top and wall bevel would look good and give you a nice "backsplash" look (place to set a cold beverage out of the way of pizza tools) I sorta had the same problem on my flagstone backsplash where it is against the brick of the house. I didn't think i could caulk it to look right and ended up using backer rod and it looks fine. I just stuffed it in the uneven gap between the brick and flagstone. Don't have a pic right now. Difference is mine is covered there by roof.
I was able to remove my form(masonite)that i used between my bar and the brick of the house. You just have to wait until it is good and dry and the concrete shrinks a bit. Leave an end that protrudes so you have something to get a hold of and start working it out.
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  #216  
Old 09-18-2012, 07:51 AM
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Default Re: Starting new 36" build

DJ,

What is your thoughts on the aluminum HVAC tape adjacent to your melamine?
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  #217  
Old 09-18-2012, 08:37 AM
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Default Re: Starting new 36" build

Quote:
Originally Posted by UtahBeehiver View Post
DJ,

What is your thoughts on the aluminum HVAC tape adjacent to your melamine?
I used the HVAC tape to cover all the gaps in the metal framing and around the concrete board. I probably didn't need it, but I had the time so I used it to seal everything up in the form. Figured it was the thing that would stand up best to the wet concrete.
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  #218  
Old 09-18-2012, 09:48 AM
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Default Re: Starting new 36" build

Good idea, I forget you are pouring counters over a bar/cabinet section. I am on hold right now waiting for the mailorder colorant to arrive.
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  #219  
Old 09-19-2012, 07:00 PM
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Default Re: Starting new 36" build

Forms, forms, and more forms

First, the archway form for the "faux" arch over my firewood area. The wood I'll use to jig the voisseurs and the corner pieces is shown for fit. Setting the columns was a total PITA but I think I finally got it right:
Starting new 36" build-wp_000112.jpg

And the countertops:
Starting new 36" build-wp_000114.jpgStarting new 36" build-wp_000115.jpg

And finally the pre-cast form for my oven landing. I have it sitting there for scale, but will be casting it on a table that has leveling legs

Starting new 36" build-wp_000116.jpg

Hoping I can pour the countertops this weekend. But if not, I have the brickwork and then the stone veneer to keep me busy.
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  #220  
Old 09-19-2012, 07:10 PM
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Default Re: Starting new 36" build

DJ,

Should I let you go first to figure out all the tricks on pour concrete counters??? The landing is 5 inches or so thick??? WOW. Those columns look great to me.
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