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Dino_Pizza 11-11-2008 02:51 PM

Should rebar or steel poke thru foundation
 
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I'm digging my foundation now and am a bit confused. I know to lay in rebar in upper and lower portions of my 12"x16" perimeter footing and to put rebar every 12" both ways for the thinner slab area in the middle. I plan on having steel rebar in every-other block hole (all of this per the official Pompeii plans and others posts).

BUT...do I put vertical re-bar sticking out of the top of my concrete pour for every block hole I plan to fill with concrete? AND...if I do, do I just do my best to screed, level and float between the rebar? Please take a look at my attached pdf drawing and you'll see my question in item #3.

Thanks (in advance) for all your advice.
;) Dino

Breven 11-11-2008 04:04 PM

Re: Should rebar or steel poke thru foundation
 
Dino,

I'm not an expert, but I can tell you the way I did it. I floated the foundation, went back and inserted rebar, 2 or 3 foot long pieces into pre-measured spots, directly through the slab and into the wet footings. Then, after setting up the first course of block (with a foot or so of rebar sticking up) I just tied longer peices to it. It was all really easy. Take a look at my web album and you can see what I did. Perhaps a concrete expert would have a better idea? This was my first time working with rebar.

Modthyrth 11-11-2008 04:16 PM

Re: Should rebar or steel poke thru foundation
 
That shouldn't be necessary. The shape of the stand itself is very stable, and the weight of everything keeps it very nicely in place. Once my cores were filled and dried, I actually tried to knock it over (to make sure it would be steady while kids were running around). Not a budge.

I did drill holes into my foundation and epoxy rebar in place for a wall to the left of my pizza oven stand, but that's just because the wall is only a single block thick and a straight line. I wouldn't bother with anything with 90 degree corners.

Breven 11-11-2008 04:21 PM

Re: Should rebar or steel poke thru foundation
 
Nikki makes a good point. It could be over-kill. Here in earthquake country however...I didn't hesitate to go with the more stable approach. Concrete cracks naturally. If there is nothing there to tie your blocks together vertically and horizontally- it seems to me that eventually cracks in the cores would cause separation between the blocks. I think this is why rebar is used? Not because its not stable right after the cores are dry, but so that it remains stable 20 years from now.

Modthyrth 11-11-2008 04:24 PM

Re: Should rebar or steel poke thru foundation
 
True, if I were in earthquake country, I'd probably over-engineer everything humanly possible. Can't hurt to add extra stability.

dusty 11-11-2008 04:29 PM

Re: Should rebar or steel poke thru foundation
 
Dino,
You don't have to have vertical rebar in EVERY hole you plant to fill, but a few pieces is a good idea. Say one in the corner, one on each end, and mabe a few more in between- like every three feet or so. And yes, measure out where you want them and sink them into your wet foundation cement. And like Breven said, you only have to have a short piece coming out of the foundation as you can tie longer pieces to those as you go up.

Good luck and have fun.

dusty

staestc 11-11-2008 04:29 PM

Re: Should rebar or steel poke thru foundation
 
I was wondering the same Dino, but I came to the same conclusion that Breven described, given that I can't see any other way. You pretty much have to screed and maybe even float, then insert the rebar, let it set up a bit, then trowel. I never thought of putting in short bits of rebar then tieing longer pieces to them. Not sure why you would want to do that. If anybody has any other ideas I would love to hear them!

Travis

christo 11-11-2008 04:34 PM

Re: Should rebar or steel poke thru foundation
 
I did not go for the vertical rebar - thought about it - but when pour time came I did not have faith that I could get the rebar to line up. My design - lets say - was not exactly stable at the time.

but I'm not in earthquake zones (today anyway). I flilled the cores with concrete a bit more than everyother one.

I think bent bar and sticking up from the slab would be best to tie the wall to the slab from a pureist standpoint. If you don't like that - you could bend a bit of a j on the end of the rebar and stick it into the slab after the pour as Breven suggested - that will give a nice mechanical bond. I might go that way as you have a bit more freedom to place exactly where you want it...

I have drilled holes in concrete and used the epoxy to tie threaded rod and rebar and think it works well (based on no failures and internet lore).

Preparing the foundation was by far the most physically demanding part of building my oven. You are past the hardest part!!!

Christo

RTflorida 11-11-2008 04:36 PM

Re: Should rebar or steel poke thru foundation
 
I would say yes, tie in the block stand to the slab in earthquake prone areas...ad south FL (Dade county specifically) to the list as well. I remember when I started my build we had a Miami member (can't remember who) that had to actually "L" bend the rebar uprights and tie them into the slab rebar...seems building code in south FL includes ANY structure (shed, barbecue, oven, etc). Whether you intend (or actually need) to comply with building codes, it is always good to know how it "should be"and build accordingly (nosey neighbors are good at reporting work to the local building dept or code enforcement). From a structural standpoint most areas of the country should not need any form of tie in to the slab...just lay your stand blocks straight and true, gravity and weight will do the rest.

RT

egalecki 11-11-2008 05:14 PM

Re: Should rebar or steel poke thru foundation
 
Dino, I set up a couple of rows of block on my poured and dry slab and marked where the rebar needed to go, and then I drilled into the slab about 1 1/2 inches. I sank the rebar into the holes, then built up the walls one row at a time, filling in the holes with concrete as I went. We filled every hole, not every other one, by the way. By the time it was dry, you couldn't push it over unless you drove into it. Add the weight of the hearth and the oven pushing down, and you have a pretty solid creation. However, I don't know about earthquakes, and we have them occasionally here- just little ones, though.


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